Removed the column switches and collar then the cluster before I could remove the dash. The dash vinyl was stuck to the steel structure of the car so it was concerning me as I tried to seperate it from the car, were not recovering the dash just the pod over the cluster because the stitching is worn from knuckles hitting it over the years. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sorry Newmy for asking a redundant question....does one need to remove the windshield in order to remove the dash? I'm asking because I noticed that you didn't remove the windshield.
The answer is no, you dont have to remove the windshield. The top of the dash is tucked into a strip of anodized aluminum to keep it straight and secure. Just push the dash back in and five fasteners later its installed.....then you have the cluster and column to deal with.
just looking through this makes me want another one and Ive already got one.Geat thread,thanks for sharing.
Hi all,this is a great thread and perfect timing as I am about to do the inside of my GTB. I was just wondering what you used to get the four lights from the pod as they are very slippery and levering them with anything could scratch the ally panel.
Thanks for that,Ill give it a try.Have you any tips for getting the trim pieces off the front windscreen?
I know it wasn't much help you just have to be persistent and careful. As for the windshield trim, this car is a virgin and not rusty so I may have it easy. The windshield is held in with dum-dum so it's soft. The perimeter of the window frame has retaining clips that the trim engages into. Then they use urathane to seal the gap between the trim and frame. I'll start by using a razor to run around the gap then try a putty knife between the glass and trim around the perimeter and then see if it moves. Pry too hard and you'll bend it. You'll damage the trim long before you hurt the glass. I've decided I have to take the trim out because the sander is sure to touch the trim even if they taped it up and then it'll be junk for sure. I'll take the trim out next and add pics.
Stripped the rear of the car, removed the trunk carpet because we have to weld up the DOT marker holes and cut a new piece of fabric that lines the insides of both quarter panels eliminating the hole for the lamp wiring. Removed the tubi muffler, bumper, lower vent grills, rear inner fenders and intake ducts. Moved to the front and removed the fender grills and marker lamps. The Euro ones are 5" closer to the wheel opening than the US markers and the holes a little smaller for the Euro repeaters so we'll close the holes and make new ones. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
which begs the question, are you keeping all the OEM smog stuff on? Also, what is the plan for the spark?
I had him remove one photo I wasn't happy with, can't edit pics yourself once posted just the text can be edited by the poster.
are you keeping any of the stuff or are you selling? If selling i would like the diverter valve if it still works also the charcoal cannister and the airpump and the airpump bracket. and the electrovalves. are you keeping points setup?
All the parts will be for sale, Newman and I will sit down and make a comprehensive list of what is and is not for sale
Air pump and brackets are long gone. Air tubes and valves are present. The canister is available as is the vacuum pump and sphere if I recall but they were removed prior to the car arriving at my place. Distributors may have to be returned for cores in exchange for a euro single distributor otherwise we pay a fee to keep them and sell them. Plug wires and caps, rotors etc will be available if the distributors are not. Bumpers are available, I believe a US diaper will be available as well. A US grill will also be up from grabs, DOT markers, possibly the lights and emblems provided Brett wants to let them go.
What will you be doing with the headers? Will you remove that aluminum "skin" and coat and / or wrap them? I have the same stuff still on mine, and it is flaking off...
Ill be removing the shields so they're like euro headers, no coating no wrap maybe a black header paint, depends on bretts preference once the shields are gone. Curious to see the condition once the shields are gone but from what I can see through the shields, they look clean.
Stripping the front end body apart now (still eyeballing that perfect trim around the windshield that I have to take out). Removed the front bumper, minor damage to the underside from whatever the PO hit in the past but its not to the steel structure so no swelling and an easy fix. Front valance is just trashed but I did find the missing battery cover knurled nut poking through a hole in the bottom geting ready to fall out and be lost forever. The front valance was also missing all the fasteners along the left side, cant figure out why other than its been off in the past but no evidence of body repairs from a collision. Head light assemblies must come out to do a proper paint job as do the air inlet ducts for the heaters unless you want either black or body colour overspray on them. When I hear people say they can get their 308 painted for $3-5K I know its not done right, its just not possible to get all the black parts black and the red parts red if its not taken apart like this. Once the car is back together, simply looking through the fender vents or the engine bay will show clean black paint, contrasting red and clean components which is time consuming but this seperates a driver from an outstanding car that will command much higher selling price if it were on the market. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Agree Kris! This sort of long term full blown restoration would be a great article over a number of issues. Keep the reader interested. Newman - looking good!