Similar to the 308, the quarter glasses are held in with rivets just not in the same way. The back glass has trim like the windshield but this 78 has the rubber gasket. The early 308's had a piece of trim like the boxer. Windshield, the same. Ive seen the black fan motors in QV's. This car and my 79 had zinc plated housings and cast aluminum ends natural finish. This car has one of each, should both be silver with grey fans.
Thanks Ric, I decided to do this full time it was too hard burning the candle at both ends (work and doing these big projects on the side was just too much) so I gave up my cushy job
More progress on the 308. Drilled out countless rivets so once its painted Its just a matter of putting the trim right back on. I left the windshield in for now, its the safest place to keep it until its time to transport the car to the bodyshop. Engine removal tomorrow. Have to disconnect the front header, mount bolts and a few small items. The axles are ready to lift out, had a few stubborn allen bolts from previous repairs as expected. Noted the engine moves around a lot on the passenger side and found the right side mounts compressed to the point where the spacer under the RR mount is contacting the isolated portion of the mount (circular rust ring on underside of black mount), most likely under load or over bumps. The front header is also contacting (and cutting) the frame rail. The A/C compressor had no clearance between the engine and the right tank because as the right side lowers it brings the timing cover closer to the tank. First mount pic is the LR with plenty of clearance, next pic is RR. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Took the trim apart for anodizing and dropped it off then took the interior to the trim guy for him to work his magic. Have to remove any metal before anodizing because the electrical current passed through the chemical tanks will conduct through the steel heating it up possibly red hot and melting it.....more rivets. The trim will be stripped, polished then go through a two step process which is better than new. The process for the trim originally was some sort of dye anodizing process as it was described to me which is why it turns purple over time from sun exposure. The two step process will not fade, its very durable and will look correct but last. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
More trim shots. Had to heat some of the tiny fasteners for the window frames, had to drill one out it just wouldnt come. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Those countersunk bolts/nuts in the corners ARE a PITA... I lost one and had to grind down a machine screw to fit!! LOL! You can find new ones, or reuse those???
Thank you! I'll be staying up here in the Barrie area, looking at units now but will continue on my property until I find a place I'm happy with.
Removed the engine today, fuel tanks, lines and forward aluminum panel that is a US spec (and other markets im sure) part to reduce heat in the cabin thats generated from smog equipment. The firewall behind it is very nice and just looks better with that extra panel gone. When we paint the car, all the silver and black will be sprayed. Rear header with shields is a royal pain to remove vs the unshielded ones and the air injection manifold doenst help matters. Gearbox had 3 liters of royal purple in it. Its leaking profusely where the bellhousing meets the adapter plate which would be from the last guy that put the new clutch in the car. The oil transfer ports must have the o-ring in wrong or damaged. I eliminate the two o-rings and just use a sealant on the mating surfaces. No o-ring to squeeze out, its a bad design really. They dont leak if you toss the o-rings and use a very thin application of RTV. The car shifted well cold and hot but im a little concerned about the box running from vegas to toronto with such a low fluid level. Alll four CV joints are missing the inner clamps, why? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I remember Pizzaman Chris whining about the front header, wah wah wah . The US one is a real treat with the shields. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Lifted the engine by the front head which is the best way to remove the engine. Its a one man job, nothing scrapes, no prying or swearing its actually not too hard to remove or install once the manifolds are off. A lifting strap is best, doesnt hurt the aluminum. Both front mount spacers have been replaced with some sort of spacers that are smaller and different in appearance. The frame has marks from the original spacers so ill have to source them as well. The LR engine mount is also scrap which makes at least 3 mounts in need of replacing out of four. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Engine out, tanks out. It just makes for a better job when you paint the car. The left side hoses need to be replaced so the tank had to come out anyway. Were very close to a restoration like my 308. The suspension needs to be done and the engine has a low number 6 cylinder. 30% loss through the intake valve and past the rings combined. Got a reading of 120 psi consistantly, tested 3 times. Other cylinders range from 165-175 psi. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Front or rear doesnt matter, removal and install is a whole new ball game vs a euro or unshielded header.
They come out 'easier" if blown into pieces..... Air Nozzles don't look bad...none were curled??? That one shield has given up from the heat..or you said it was rubbing the frame from bad engine mounts. They were all out of the 'small" CV seal clamps, that day...odd! Royal Purple is SO good that 'half full" is fine!
Taking the fuel tank out (RH) first buys you enough room, on wrapped headers. Have you thought about the (modified) solid engine mounts from Summit?? Are you putting that air injection system BACK on???
Or maybe the last guy to work on it read Carroll Smith's book "Engineer to Win" where he talks about not using any on the inners.. "I don't clamp the minor diameters of my CV joint boots at all. There is no functional need to do so (the centrifugal force of shaft rotation prevents the grease from coming out) " and he goes on to say if the grease turns watery at least you'll know before its too late.. Albeit he was talking about race cars. Cheers
Well darn, I HAVE that book, just never got that far into it!! Thinking about it, he's absolutely right!!! It'll never catch on.....
I called it a cosmetic resto because the intention was never to tear it right down and the engine was assumed good until tested! So now here we are just doing a bit more than cosmetic Suspension bushings are shot. Ill be removing the suspension next. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I think just about everyone's rear bushes are looking like that now if they have never been replaced. Mine certainly did.
The Energy Suspensions bushing/QA1 shock set-up works wonderfully. My car handles great after the install and set-up. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
