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83 QV GTS RELAY

Discussion in '308/328' started by Anthony bentley, Aug 24, 2009.

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  1. Anthony bentley

    Anthony bentley Formula Junior

    May 20, 2006
    560
    London
    Full Name:
    Anthony Bentley
    #1 Anthony bentley, Aug 24, 2009
    Is there a relay on the ignition switch when you turn the key some times i have ignition sometimes i don't. Its now started cutting out while driving very embarrassing at the traffic lights. I have to pull over and twist the key off then twist it on and hopefully i get an ignition light then im away again (sometimes it takes two or three go's)!

    Im a total novice when it comes to electrics!

    Thanks in advance.
    Anthony
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,870
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #2 Steve Magnusson, Aug 24, 2009
    No, and it's always possible that the ignition swirtch itself (or something else upstream) is flaky, but the fuseblock is another known trouble area that could cause this symptom. +12V power from the ignition switch (when "on") enters the top of fuse #2 via the large "A" (light blue) wire. The riveted plate on the backside of the fuseblock then connects this +12V power over to the top of fuse #1 where it exits via the "G" (yellow) and "GN" (yellow/black) wires to run the ignition (and the alternator warning light). What I would do is measure the voltages at the male tabs where the wires connect at top of fuses #1 and #2 when you have the problem (e.g., if you turn the Key "on", but the alternator warning light doesn't come "on"). If:

    top of fuse #1 is +12V and top of fuse #2 is +12V = this isn't the problem;

    top of fuse #1 is 0V and top of fuse #2 is +12V = bad fuseblock;

    top of fuse #1 is 0V and top of fuse #2 is 0V = the problem is upstream of the fuseblock.

    Alternatively, if you add a jumper wire to better connect the top of fuse #1 and the top of fuse #2, and just drive:

    if the problem goes away = bad fuseblock,

    if the problem is unchanged = something else.

    Good hunting!
     
  3. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2004
    2,345
    #3 Paul_308, Aug 24, 2009
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2009
    Ignition switches can but rarely go bad. Rather than troubleshooting the fuseblock, why not change it out to a newer Birdman style fuseblock and not have to worry about it reoccurring. Which if the car is a 308, it definitely will.

    Yes, when the ignition key goes to start, you will hear relays click if the ignition switch (and fuseblock) is ok. There is a 'start' relay but it controls the cold start valve, not the ignition.



    _________________________
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  4. Anthony bentley

    Anthony bentley Formula Junior

    May 20, 2006
    560
    London
    Full Name:
    Anthony Bentley
    #4 Anthony bentley, Aug 25, 2009
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2009
    I have replaced them already, guess its just a case of working through the basics first earths and connections etc. Which one is the cold start relay?
     
  5. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
    BANNED Professional Ferrari Technician

    Apr 26, 2006
    3,664
    New England
    Full Name:
    David Feinberg
    #5 fastradio, Aug 25, 2009
    This sure sounds like an ignition switch problem. To verify, wiggle the key and see if you can get the car to quit. despite the claim "that they rarely fail", they fail quite regularly, in my experiences...(If everything "electrically" seems to go dead when you wiggle the key, you can be pretty confirdent that you've found the problem. If so, the electrical portion of the ignition switch is serviced as a separate component.

    The cold start relay has nothing to do with the car "dying" as you describe.

    Best,
    David
     

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