Here we go again! Like last time, the car has been in storage for quite a while (too long). Had to go overseas for a job and am now retired. Last time, the car was huridly finished to allow for my unexpected departure. The car ran poorly after the major - FoS and Rifledriver suggested that the cam timing was off. The timing was set per the cam marks.... Personally, I think the cam timing is not the issue - we'll see. This time, I have PLENTY of time to get it right. I'll be setting it per factory (more or less) timing procedures. Lots to do, lots to do. Should have the engine out in a few days (yup - I'm slow and old). Rgds, Vincenzo PS: If anybody has areas of particular interest - let me know and I'll get extra photos etc etc Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Vince ... enjoy retirement (like I do) but always use a degree wheel to time cams. Read this thread too ! Good luck and please keep us informed with loads of pics
Just as a matter of curiousity? Is there a lock pin or some sort of safety mechanism holding the scissor jack up? Or just hydraulics? Have fun, work at your own pace and enjoy. I've discovered that "old and slow" still works for me.
In between the cylinders is a square tube with a locking mechanism that has three mechanical stops. However, removing the AC and throttle cable requires a specific height and work under hydraulics without a mechanical stop in place :-( At that point - i work REAL fast! The car will need a full going through due to the storage period and age.... lots to come. rgds, Vincenzo
about to drop the engine.... notice the adjustable brackets - the engine can be adjusted for tilt. this is a HUGE help to get the engine clear of the shift rod. the engine drops about 4" in the back before the front even moves! Image Unavailable, Please Login
engine is clear! pretty tight in this garage! my next step is to organize and clean! Image Unavailable, Please Login
how does this process go then? do you set it on the brackets first, then screw down the brackets one at a time, or the brackets are just uneven heights front to back and once the engine is set on the stand, you don't adjust the heights of the rear brackets?
The car drives over the lift via a ramp made of a 2x4s with 1/4" bottom plate and 3/4" top plate. The ramps have multi sections so that much of it can be removed to ease access. When on the front ramp AND rear jack stands, the engine frame rails are at a height which requires the engine cradle supports to be nearly at full extention. The car is 'more or less' horizontal. Once the cradle is placed, the supports are fully extended to bear the +\- weight of the engine. The frame is then fully unbolted while the cradle supports its weight. Then it is simply a matter of adjusting the rear two supports to lower the rear of the engine. The engine will start to have clearance enough to start pulling it to the rear during this process. By the time the rear supports are fully retracted, the car body is about ready to lift off of the engine. Don't forget to put the shift shaft into the gearbox as far as possible and retract the rod and bracket into the tunnel as far as possible before moving the engine! As the rear drops and the cradle is pulled to the rear, the shift shaft is well clear of its bracket before the front of the engine drops vertically. ez.. rgds, Vincenzo Image Unavailable, Please Login
the plate over the 4x4 was in the timber framing section. then add some large and thick washers to further distribute the load. The jack screw (threaded rod) and nut come with the upper bracket already attached to the threaded rod. It would be super simple to fabricate if you have a brake. Use some thin plate with a nut welded onto it. rgds, vincenzo
here is a detail shot you may find helpful. It is all 4x4 plus 2x4 plus 2x6 - all screwed and glued. The slight cracking you see is from the years of storage rather than the load. The overall width is based on the lift's dimensions. The stand's wheels travel outside of the lift's legs. If I was doing it over, I'd use a 2x8" in place of the 2x6. Not so much for the load, but for providing some extra width at the caster attachments. have fun, Vincenzo PS: my gut says that the plate wrapped around the 4x4 is critical. it distributes any lateral load across the 4x4 and prevents the timber from splitting when the rod wants to 'tilt'. Image Unavailable, Please Login
pics would be appreciated some day I'll get a TIG welder.... until then, screws and glue! rgds, Vincenzo
Easier and safer to remove the shift rod. Just pushing it forward isn't always enough and numerous people have bent their shift rod this way. Be safe. Remove it. It's very easy and makes clearance a breeze.
if the engine remains horizontal when it is dropped vertically, you are correct - interference is likely. if the engine is tilted first, then pulled rearward before the front of the engine is moved down (or chassis moved up), - there is plenty of room. ymmv, Vincenzo