The new oil seal behind the water pump is already in... see it here:...
The new oil seal behind the water pump is already in... see it here: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/516192-83958-major-2016-cooling-system.html Fresh cam seals are now ready for installation. They were mounted via a small press with black synthetic grease to slide 'em in. Just before they are slipped over the cams, they will be fully packed with grease. "Clean room" mode is on! Life IS Good! Vincenzo Image Unavailable, Please Login
be carefull with this silicon sealant vincenzo the cover left top has some silicon seal inside where when installed oil may leak. I once had this problem because I used new silicon manufacturer and this silicon has been a little more fluid than my old one. so I changed again to the old stuff
...on its way out. Drill a hole, run in a screw and use a slap hammer to pull it out. EZ-PZ Image Unavailable, Please Login
...one of my more expensive tools ;-) Plenty of synthetic grease in and on the seal surfaces. Image Unavailable, Please Login
...at last! The seal is clearly installed to full depth - ez to tell as the tool's required torque clearly increases once the seal bottoms on the seat. As a double check, the seal lip is well past the chamfer in the crank nose. Life is Good! Vincenzo Image Unavailable, Please Login
Any reason you are greasing these? I just put on a light coat of oil, as that's what lubricates it once running...
That sealant looks like my favorite of all time, Hylomar. Harder to find here so I got 3 tubes sent over from Ol' Blighty to work as my goto sealant. Nice work BTW!
Grease helps the seal slide into place. Grease in between the two seal lips will never drain out, but will be kept moist by the oil seepage. Here is what SKF says: "Seals with an auxiliary, contacting lip can also be filled with grease between the sealing lip and auxiliary lip to reduce frictional moment. This does not apply to silicone rubber seals and seals with hydrodynamic features, other than SKF WAVE lip designs." Seal installation, general industrial applications For a single lip seal, oil is fine. Having fun! Vincenzo
The Hylomar was used on the water pump O-Ring.... The seal uses synthetic grease. Nice to hear there is at least one other person that likes Hylomar! Get ready for the Hylomar haters! British sludge etc etc Amazon is a good source for Hylomar (and most anything else one can imagine)! Ciao, Vincenzo
I also use hylomar very often, very good to clean away later. but it is not useful for all, sometimes silicon sealant is much better so each sealant for the right purpose
Another expensive tool to help ensure that the seal lip goes over the cam without deformation. The black crud is fresh, clean synthetic grease. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Note that when the seal flange is seated, all the excess Hylomar that is behind the O-Ring is pushed out of the joint and NOT into the engine. Keep a minimal amount of Hylomar in front of the O-Ring. Image Unavailable, Please Login
...of the engine internal area after the seal flange is fully seated. Note that there is essentially ZERO Hylomar inside of the engine. Even if Hylomar gets inside the engine, since it doesn't set up in a solid mass, it will not clog an oil galley or pickup screen. Image Unavailable, Please Login
...Hylomar that was squeezed out of the joint. The seals were well lubricated with synthetic grease prior to assembly. New, yellow grade 10 nylocs with a thin wavy washer beneath. The thin washer allows for enough exposed threads to secure the nyloc. Another step forward! Life IS Good, Vincenzo Image Unavailable, Please Login
The Hylomar cleaner is acetone per their MSDS. See it here: Hylomar ? Non-Setting Compounds Image Unavailable, Please Login
While replacing nylocks, these were pulled from the firewall.... the red was pulled from an area that is sure to have been OEM. Apparently, both red and white nylon inserts were used by Ferrari. I have yet to find yellow nylon! Amazon rocks! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Surprise! Found a yellow M10 today. F-car was all over the map on these nuts by 1990. How many hours have folks spent trying to chase down a source for all yellow on the earlier cars?? Anybody know when Ferrari quit using ‘all’ yellow? Image Unavailable, Please Login
I found mostly yellow on my 87TR. But I also found other colors on parts that were never apart till I got in to it.
You don't need to put all of that Hylomar on the o-rings. The rubber of the o-ring is makes a perfect seal on the aluminum. Unless there is damage to the seal surface in the aluminum, all you need is the o-ring. If you want to put a light smear on the o-rings as a lubricant to ease the installation, that is fine. But it should be so little as to not even be visible and not make a huge mess squeezing out everywhere. You are going way overboard with all of that sealant. It looks terrible.
See post #13.... All the excess was removed from the exterior after it squeezed out. Note that a minimal amount of hylomar was used on the anterior surface (engine side) of the o-ring - no excess to squeeze ‘into’ the engine. Your words ring true for silicon but for hylomar it is not an issue. The use of hylomar is a contentious issue on F-chat - but this technique has worked well for me with these o-rings. YMMV Vincenzo
normaly when you use the right O-rings you only need some oil to put on. so no sealant. I always did and do so and had never problems until now
Keep in mind, Hylomar stays ‘fluid’ under shear (movement) and provides the same assembly/ lubricity function as oil.... BUT, as a thixotropic fluid it will thicken up under static conditions to provide a seal. Years later, at the next service, the movement of dissasembly will again allow it to ‘flow’. No silicon worms! This thixotropic property also allows it to ‘dissolve’ (completely break apart) when under a heavy shear stress such as going thru the oil pump... the extremely fine particles will then get picked up within the oil filter. Plugged oil gallies will not occur with hylomar. Still, one must never apply ANY sealant in exess. Your comments regarding the o-ring sealing properties are all correct.... they are a great design as long as the surfaces are spot-on and the o-ring is not old and hard. You’ve seen how the older and more stiff o-rings start to ‘weep’ a sheen of oil all over the cam covers. For me, I like the belt and suspenders approach. Porosity, or a nick in the casting, or in the o-ring itself is a non issue with hylomar. Five years later.... the joint is still oil tight. Cheers, Vincenzo
