84 308 black plastic escutcheon around trunk latch | Page 3 | FerrariChat

84 308 black plastic escutcheon around trunk latch

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Quasimotor, Feb 3, 2004.

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  1. Quasimotor

    Quasimotor Formula Junior

    Jan 4, 2004
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    George Avgerakis
    #51 Quasimotor, Mar 4, 2004
    Okay - here's a way you can solve your problem with a broken escutcheon, make it BETTER than new and save money too. First, remove the unit as previously described in an earlier post. Then remove the chrome lever mechanism by punching out the hinge pin. ( I didn't do this at first, but it makes sense and it'll keep you from scratching the chrome later).

    Next, buy a small kit of Marine Tex epoxy (it comes in white and gray - get the gray which is almost black). You can get this at a boat shop (it's the best marine epoxy made) or some True Value Hardware stores, costs about $8.00 for the smallest size.

    Now, using some box cardboard, make a rectangular support using masking tape. Furnish a top to the support, trace the black, plastic assembly and cut a rectangular hole to match the one on the body of the car. Tape all the edges of the hole and about an inch of the top surface around the hold with a shiny plastic tape, like 3M packing tape. This will keep the epoxy from sticking.

    Insert your escutcheon into the hole. Using perfectly straight strips of box cardboard, form edges around the outside perimeter of the escutcheon, representing the missing edges that broke off. Use the existing edges if you have them, as guides. (see photo 1). You can fasten these strips in place at the outside edges with masking tape.

    Remove the escutcheon and fasten the inside edges with shiny tape, using your thumbnail to impress a 90 degree groove which will now represent a pour-into mold for the epoxy to form a new plastic edge of the escutcheon.

    Put the plastic piece back into the form and verify all the fits and edges.

    Make up the epoxy - just enough to fill all the mold areas you created. (picture 2 and 3) This is a 5:1 epoxy and it's better to use too little of the clear liquid than too much, although my first try I used too too little and the plastic never hardened and I had to start over.

    As this epoxy starts to set up (about 10-15 minutes before it stops being really sticky), use a wet finger (you know what to wet your finger with don't you?) to smooth the edges and surfaces, blending the epoxy into the surface of the existing plastic to make a very slick transition from old to new.

    Set the assembly aside overnight to harden.

    Using a sanding wheel or Dremmel tool, grind the edges and faces to form the epoxy molded form into the right shape. Be sure to leave the back of the edges at least as thick as the original edges. You might even want to consider flipping the whole unit over and adding epoxy to the back of all the edges, thereby building the unit up and making it better than original. If so, you can go about double the original thickness without causing any door closing problems.

    When you get the form looking pretty good, use 400 grit sandpaper then 600 to polish the Marine Tex to a fairly smooth surface. To make a pefect match of color, use Krylon semigloss black spray paint and lightly spray the entire unit.

    Reinstall the chrome lever and you're done. (picture 4)

    Good luck! Mine's working fine and looks original.
     
  2. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #52 Verell, Mar 6, 2004
    MOLDS ARE UNDERWAY:
    Hi, I'm literally making the latch housing molds today. I should have initial parts next weekend.

    ORIGINAL BONNET & BOOT LATCH HOUSINGS ARE DIFFERENT!!!
    BTW, There is a difference between the original bonnet latch & boot latch housings. It's on the back where the cable goes thru the housing.

    The difference is due to the type of cables used:
    The bonnet cable is jacketed like the cables used on bicycles, while the boot cable is unjacketed.

    The bonnet latch housing has a boss molded into it with a recess the cable's jacket fits into. The hole for the cable at the bottom of the recess is just large enough for the cable to fit thru.

    The boot latch just has a large hole about the size of the raised boss & the cable just goes straight into it.

    I'll post a couple of photos as soon as I get a chance.

    Has anyone received one of the new universal-replacement latch ass'ys? If so, would you post a photo of the rear of the housing?
     
  3. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #53 Verell, Mar 14, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hello,
    Here are some side by side photos of the 308 bonnet & boot latch housings. As you can see, the bonnet housing has a raised boss that the cable's jacket slips into.

    Careful examination of the interior of the bonnet latch reveals that the boss is actually an insert that's glued into the housing. Thus the basic housing is the same for both latches, but the bonnet latch has received a permanant addition.

    I'm going the other route, & making a mold for the bonnet version, then drill the cable housing boss out to produce a boot latch housing. Looks like it'll be late next month before I have the molds done. I've got a rush order that I need to get out, then will be traveling for a couple of weeks.
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  4. chrismorse

    chrismorse Formula 3

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    #54 chrismorse, Mar 15, 2004
    you smooth tounged devil
    cm
     
  5. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #55 Verell, Mar 15, 2004
    I'm biting my tongue(LOL)....
     
  6. Quasimotor

    Quasimotor Formula Junior

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    George Avgerakis
    #56 Quasimotor, Sep 30, 2004
    Verrel! Did you ever finish that molding job? My beautifully and well documented, hand made fix of the trunk latch escutcheon just literally fell apart in my hand yesterday! Went to open the lid, like I done a thousand time before and POP, it all broke apart. Luckily the emergency puller worked okay, but now I gotta get a real fix.

    It appears that the border edge of the escutcheon takes a great deal of pressure force, since pulling up on the latch passes the pressure to this plastic part.

    Have you had good experiences with the parts you made? I was thinking it might even be better to mold this out of aluminum and then to paint or anodize it black.

    Let me know how yours have worked and if you're still selling one and for how much.

    Quasimotor
     
  7. ClydeM

    ClydeM F1 World Champ
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    #57 ClydeM, Oct 1, 2004
    Mine has pooped out too. Let me know when your fabrication is finished. Thanks.

    PS - has anyone found a good glue that works on the Ferrari plastic parts? I've tried numerous & none seem to stick. Gorilla, Model glue, Crazy, Epoxy...nothing sticks to this plastic.

    as to replacing this...I've popped the trunk access panel, pull the cable taunt, vice-grip the cable at the block and that gives me enough slack to unscrew the escutcheon and pop the cable off. Putting it on is just the reverse.
     
  8. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #58 Verell, Nov 11, 2004
    The JWise timing drive project has eaten up all my spare time, so I haven't made the molds yet. (Had a problem with my 1st mold & just haven't got back to redo them.)

    Hope to get to them during Thanksgiving vacation tho. Otherwise it'll be Christmas vacation fer sure.

    I've found three plastic glues that seem to cover just about everything but

    Teflon & high density polyurethane which nothing seems to bond:

    SureHold Plastic Surgery - A 'crazy glue' specially made for plastics. Successfully used it for my turn signal stalk repair. Seems to be much slower than most crazy glues in setting up. Probably what lets it grab onto plastics.

    Duro Plastic Welder - A high strength 2-part adhesive specially made for plastics. This seems to work well with most plastics, including thermoset 'bakelite' plastics. Should work with boot & bonnet latch housings. Need to work fast as it starts to set up in a minuite or to. Doesn't bond as well if you let it start to set up.

    Loctite for plastic (A 'crazy glue' type, specially for plastic. Don't have exact name.) Seems to be similar to the SureHold plastic welder, but sticks to some things plastic welder doesn't (and vice versa).
     
  9. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #59 Verell, Dec 7, 2004
    Quasimotor,Chrismorse,Steven,
    Figured I owed you guys an update on progress on molding the latch housings. Thanks for waiting so patiently.

    I started on the mold over Thanksgiving.
    Was mounting the housing in clay when I realized that one of the little stop tabs for the lever was broken off on the part I was about to use to make the mold! If you take a good look at the picture I posted earlier in this thread you can see the break area(DUH)!

    Anyway, this weekend I made a mini-mold of that area of my other housing & then used it to repair the broken area by casting a new stop. Almost invisable repair, just a few small marks I made cleaning things up.

    Hopefully I'll finish mounting the housing & cast the 1st half of the mold this weekend.
     
  10. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #60 Verell, Jan 31, 2005
    After several setbacks & distractions, Unobtainium Supply Co. has finally got the bonnet & boot latch housings in production. (The black bezel/escutcheon around the lever is a lip on the front of the housing). Will post pix soon.

    If you need some, send eMAIL to:
    [email protected]
    w/subject: BONNET/BOOT LATCH HOUSING

    Steven, which do you need, the bonnet latch, or the boot latch?
    I should still have your mail address, so will ship it out as soon as you let me know which you need.
     
  11. enjoythemusic

    enjoythemusic F1 World Champ

    Apr 20, 2002
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    #61 enjoythemusic, Jan 31, 2005

    Engine, but do not send to me... Will e-mail you. MANY thanks.
     
  12. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

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    #62 Birdman, Jan 31, 2005
    I need one too Verell! Boot.


    Birdman
     
  13. chrismorse

    chrismorse Formula 3

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    #63 chrismorse, Feb 1, 2005
    Verell,

    Ya, one of them there boot housings thingies. Seems a PO had the thing stick open then closed the door hard enough or often enough, to break the plastic and bend the inboard side of the metal door jamb. Perhaps a bit too much enthuisiasm.

    I will try your clothes pin fix on the boot latch when i get it out.

    thanks for undertaking this "unobtanium part"

    chris
     
  14. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #64 Verell, Feb 2, 2005
    BTW, YES, the 328 uses the same bonnet/boot latch housing Ferrari #63011800 (which superceded: 60086105, 60297207, 61756700, & 62498100) so these can be used if yours is broken.


    Chrismorse,
    When are you likely to try the sample QA-1 bushings I sent you & want the rest shipped? Am getting into my peak season for Unobtainium business, but still owe you...
     
  15. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #65 BigTex, Feb 2, 2005
    That's exactly what breaks them, IMO.

    My yellow car has a snapped one.
     
  16. ria

    ria Formula Junior

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    #66 ria, Feb 2, 2005
    [Removed by Rob and PM sent to Ria]
     
  17. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #67 Verell, Feb 3, 2005
    ria,
    IMHO your unprofessional emotional & derogatory response to a year-old post was seriously out of line for Tech Q&A. Especially since in a subsequent post Paul admitted that that particular post came out more harshly than he'd intended.
     
  18. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #68 BigTex, Feb 3, 2005
    25th Trans Am and TWO 308GTBs here...............they all get what they need......drive on.

    *munching Taco Bell.....munch........munch.........* :)

    The Trans Am has one more gear, with the six speed tranny, actually....

    How much are the rear latch buckets, V.???????

    I thought of you the other day as 300 1st thru 3rd graders tromped thru my car yanking headlight stalks and such........

    "Uh, take it easy on that switch right there"...........LOL!.
     
  19. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #69 BigTex, Feb 3, 2005
    I could see you in my mind's eye, building me a new switch assembly......:rolleyes:

    I got away from them oK, though.
     
  20. ria

    ria Formula Junior

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    #70 ria, Feb 3, 2005
    verell my emotions got a way from me i am NOT that way but i got tired of people like me that i ask a question or need help and some jurks get all over me, like my mispelling if you do not understand ask again and i will try my best DO NOT try to embarise me like this guy from canada did to quasimotor i have a camaro and i love it sorry on this
     
  21. ria

    ria Formula Junior

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    #71 ria, Feb 3, 2005
    mr big if you push that switch you can be very little.
     
  22. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #72 Verell, Feb 4, 2005
    Accepted, Understand your frustration, have felt it often myself. Sometimes pretty tough to keep from flaming(been there, done that)...

    Always best to keep your cool & stick to technical issues & facts. The only dumb question is an unasked one.

    However, it's always best to have made an effort to search the board before posting a new question. Often there's a thread with the answer, or a closely related thread that you can post your question on.

    Usually someone trying to hassle you will just end up embarassing themself, expecially if you just chill out & ,if necessary, ignore them. If they get too bad, or hassle too many people, too often, they'll get banned from posting.
     
  23. ria

    ria Formula Junior

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    #73 ria, Feb 4, 2005
    verell THANKS for understanding.
     
  24. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #74 Verell, Feb 5, 2005
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Thought you'd like to see the 1st production run of the long promised bonnet & boot latch housings.

    Well, it's almost all of the run. Steven Rochelin had the honor of getting the 1st one. I hand delivered it to KTR where his car is being serviced earlier this week.

    Price is $65 for either the Bonnet(aka spare tire or hood) Latch Housing, or the Boot (aka engine cover or trunk) Latch Housing. These are used on both the 308 & 328. I'll throw in the shipping for the initial orders.

    Some of this run is already spoken for by:
    Birdman & chrismorse

    BigTex are you in now that you've seen the price?

    Looks like these are going to be popular, Someone else ordered one today!!!

    To order send just send eMAIL to:

    [email protected]

    w/subject: BONNET LATCH HOUSING ORDER
    (or BOOT LATCH HOUSING ORDER - whichever you want).

    Just say that you want to order one, & the address to ship it to.

    I'll confirm the order by email & tell you when it'll ship. Will ship via priority mail since they're small & light.

    Payment is due upon arrival & your acceptance. PayPal preferred, but money order or check is OK. Heck I'll even take cash if you ask politely - ;^)

    The bonnet & boot housings are almost identical. Only diffrence is that the bonnet housing has a cylindrical boss on the back that the cable jacket fits in, while the boot housing has a larger hole that the cable with crimped fitting fits thru.

    The mold makes bonnet housings & I just drill out the hole to make the boot housings from them.
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  25. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

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    #75 Birdman, Feb 5, 2005
    Verell,

    (with French accent)....

    You are an arteeest!

    Birdman
     
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