85 Testarossa Will Not Start | FerrariChat

85 Testarossa Will Not Start

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by pnk574, May 4, 2009.

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  1. pnk574

    pnk574 Rookie

    Jan 14, 2006
    35
    Having tried a number of tests, I'm getting a little desparate, and could use some input: My 85 TR (Cdn model) was in the body shop for over two years. It ran fine when it went in, but on its return to me it looked great but leaked fuel from both fuel accumulators. I replaced both, but the car refused to start. Spark seems to be OK on both banks, and my efforts to turn it over have lead to raw fuel running out of the header/muffler joint underneath. The fuel actually runs out fairly quickly after I try cranking the engine, so I don't think it is purely from me overly beating the dead (prancing) horse. Have I missed a steps with the accumulators? Any other painfully obvious things I am missing here? Any help will be greatly appreciated...
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,627
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    When you say "...but on its return to me it looked great but leaked fuel from both fuel accumulators..." does that mean it was running (and leaking) after delivery from the bodyshop but before you replaced the accumulators?

    Also, what engine family - F113A, F113A040, etc?
     
  3. pnk574

    pnk574 Rookie

    Jan 14, 2006
    35
    Thanks for responding. It's an F113A (block #00272). After I got the car back, we never got it fired up as the accumulators would leak through the vent as soon as the power was turned on but before the starter motor was engaged. The accumulators are the Euro style with the vent-to-air tube on the back side. One leaked a stream fairly aggressively, while the other had a drip.
     
  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,627
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    This is somewhat puzzling to me as the fuel pumps should not run (so there should be no fuel pressure) until the starter motor is actually cranking. Are you saying that if you put the key in Pos II ("on") you can hear the fuel pumps run?

    Since you say that you have spark present on both banks, and fuel seems to be excessively present, I can only assume that the A/F ratio is just so far rich that combustion can't occur. The only single part that can simultaneously affect the fuel delivery to both banks of your F113A (K-Jet without Lambda) engine is relay U, which should only briefly fire the cold start injectors at initial cranking. You might try unplugging this relay (or the cold start injectors) to see if that has any effect (and you might need to remove and dry/replace the spark plugs). Otherwise, about the only other thing you can do is measure the control and supply pressures and see if something is wacky there (but I'd think it unlikely that both banks would simultaneously have a problem on their independent systems).
     
  5. RoccoM

    RoccoM Formula Junior

    Oct 6, 2007
    421
    Richmond Hill, ONT
    Full Name:
    Rocco M
    Sorry to jump in PNK574...For future refrence, The TR has only one cold start relay, Correct? What starts and stops this relay?
    BTW...Thats a realy low engine number. Do you mind sharing the VIN number. I'm assuming it's a single mirror still.
     
  6. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,627
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    #6 Steve Magnusson, May 5, 2009
    Last edited: May 5, 2009
    Yes, on your F113A TR engine type, the single relay U on the fuse-relay panel fires both cold start injectors simultaneously during initial cranking. The F113B and F113A040 are more complicated and have another single relay E in the triangular black box that can also fire both cold start injector simultaneously for enrichment during cold-running throttle blips (in addition to having relay U for squirting them during initial cranking). Your F113A uses the Warm-up Regulators to provide enrichment during cold-running throttle blips.

    Relay U closes under the following conditions on all TR types:

    1. The starter motor must be cranking, and

    2. The thermoswitch contacts inside of the thermo-time switch must be closed -- i.e., the thermo-time switch must be physically cold and not heated by either the engine coolant nor by its internal electric heater (which adds heat when the starter motor is cranking). What this means is that only for the first second (or two~few seconds) of the first cold start attempt will the cold start injectors fire (unless you wait a while for the thermo-time switch to cool off again).
     
  7. RoccoM

    RoccoM Formula Junior

    Oct 6, 2007
    421
    Richmond Hill, ONT
    Full Name:
    Rocco M
    Thanks Steve.
     
  8. pnk574

    pnk574 Rookie

    Jan 14, 2006
    35
    Steve- Thanks for the input. I'll test your suggestions tonight.

    Rocco- The car is indeed a single mirror, and for some reason (probably date of delivery), was registered as an '86. After posting the VIN on the single-mirror registry thread I learned that the car's VIN made it an '85.

    I'll report test result as and when I have them...
     
  9. pnk574

    pnk574 Rookie

    Jan 14, 2006
    35
    Steve- I pulled relay U as per your suggestion, and it produced no discernable change in starting success. I pulled a spark plug to double check the spark, and again found a strong spark through a number of cycles. Next I pulled the power lines to each of the cold start injectors, and finally had some good luck: with a little coaxing, the car started. I ran it for about 30 seconds, but it was blowing so much raw gas out of the exhaust pipes that I decided to give it a rest until I can pull the car outside tomorrow. At this point I am hopefull that the cold starting system is not at fault, but rather that there had been a significant accumulation of unburnt fule in the cylinders and pipes from the previous attempts to start the car. I'm also presuming that once I start it in earnest, it will clean out as operating temperature is reached. Let me know if you think I should follow a different path with this. Once it has "cleaned out", I'll let it cool all the way back down, then reconnect the relay and injectors and test it once again. Regardless, I'll have a fire extinguisher at the ready...
     
  10. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,627
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    If you can get it running, I think that it would be a reasonable next step to see if it runs OKish after a while or not (i.e., does it "clear up"). Removing relay U and unplugging the power lines to the cold start injector should be exactly equivalent -- i.e., disconnecting the electrical portion of the cold start injectors (unless you have a very unusual electrical problem) so I wouldn't assign the better result to the difference in those actions yet (other than you had more starting strokes "clearing things out" in the order that you followed). If you can get it running OK with the cold start injectors unplugged (and relay U unplugged), measure the voltage between the two pins in each of the unplugged harness connectors -- should be 0 V. If not, then you do have an unusual electrical problem. If OK, then plug relay U back in (while the engine is still running) and remeasure -- should still be 0 V.

    PS Did you confirm if your fuel pumps do, or don't, run when the key is put in Pos II ("on") when the engine isn't running?
     
  11. pnk574

    pnk574 Rookie

    Jan 14, 2006
    35
    I'll try these test suggestions tonight. The fuel pumps do not come on when the key is in pos II. However, there is a wrinkle with this car in that the ignition switch must be turned to pos II to charge the system, but a small starter button under the dash must be pushed to commence the starting cycle. I understand that the car has some '80s customized security system in it, thus the funky buttons. It may also be a source for unique electrical problems, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed that such is not the case today. Thanks again...
     
  12. pnk574

    pnk574 Rookie

    Jan 14, 2006
    35
    By way of update: with the cold start injectors and the relay U unplugged, we successfully ran the engine for at least 15 minutes. In that state, it would not idle, but we did keep it going, and it did seem to clean out well. Next we plugged the cold start elements back in (both cold start injector lines and relay U). The car started and ran OK initially, and would also idle. However, after a few minutes of idling, it became rougher, and needed some coaxing to run cleanly again. We then shut it down, and once again found the strong odour of gasoline and saw raw fuel leaking from exhaust joints. I'm securing a meter to try Steve's recommended relay test. I'm also commencing the hunt for a new relay U in anticipation of that being the weak point. I'm leaning to the relay being the problem, as fuel is running out of the pipes on both banks (although the left side seems to have slightly more aggressive leaks than the right), and I would be surprised if both of the independant cold start injectors were defective at the same time. But stranger things have happened...
     
  13. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,627
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Can't say that I really like this result as having the cold start injectors disabled is how it should work when warm -- yet you still wouldn't idle correctly so you must have some other problem(s) if it was running well prior to the disuse.

    You also could just temporarily try a different ...113 relay (like from one of the headlight functions) in the relay U position for a test. (I don't like to buy anything until I've confirmed with a measurement that it really needs replacing.)

    Unfortunately, 2 years disuse is just a rough scenario for a K/KE-Jet...
     
  14. pnk574

    pnk574 Rookie

    Jan 14, 2006
    35
    Although I've let this thread go cold since early May, I feel obliged to provide an update for the benefit of those kind individuals who helped me with the diagnosis of my TR's ailment(s).

    I ended up finding a small shop in my town which specialized in maintenance of 60's to 80's Ferrari's and other Italian marques. Run by a diminutive Italian gentleman who looked like a model for the Mario character of Nintendo fame, I knew I was at the right place when he showed me his own '86.5 TR. It took a month or so, but he was able to do a complete check of the fuel system (and any other bugs). Ironically, the main culprit causing my grief was not electrical. It seems that a pin or other piece from the left bank fuel distribution cap had broken off, thus causing the fuel supply to remain open. One new cap later, and all is well.

    Thanks again to those who offered assistance and support.
     
  15. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jul 25, 2008
    14,252
    Amersfoort, The Netherlands, Europe.
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    Mel
    Thanx for the update.... but can you be a bit more specific please ?

    A part description and a foto would help....
     
  16. pnk574

    pnk574 Rookie

    Jan 14, 2006
    35
    I checked in the Ferrari Workshop Manual, and the part is called the "Mixture Regulator". We replaced the part using descriptions alone, so I don't have a part number and haven't been able to figure out a way to copy the pictures from the manual CD. That's the best I can do for now. The good news is that it's still running and running well...
     

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