85QV CIS Unplugged??

That's the safety switch on the airflow meter -- very strange to electrically connect those two terminals together as that should prevent the fuel pump from running so you must have some other modifications somewhere. Are you sure the fuse element is still intact?

 

Please see my edited post -- having a connection there doesn't make any sense to me. If your fuel pump always runs with just the key "on" = that's sort of a bad safety thing (as, if you are in a bad accident and a fuel line gets broken, you don't want pressurized fuel spraying everywhere).

The way it should work is:

When the key is "on" and the engine is not drawing air into the engine (safety switch contacts closed) = fuel pump does not run

When the key is "on" and the engine is drawing air into the engine (safety switch contacts open) or the safety switch is unplugged (also safety switch contacts open) = fuel pump runs

Since your fuel pump runs with those two terminals connected together = you must have other modification(s).

Does your fuel pump run with just the key "on" and the added fuse in place?

 

Yes, that's not so good. If you remove the added fuse (and leave the connector unplugged) does the fuel pump not run with the key "on"?

One other thing you could do is check to see if all of the relays are of the correct type in each position (...113, ...101, ...006) as per your OM, or if there are any other obvious wiring modifications made in the fuse-relay panel area.

 

I would suspect a dirty hack with a few wires bypassing the first stage of fuel pump relays.

 

The problem here is that if they had to implement such extreme fix, one could suspect a previous hotstart problem. The pressure accumulator and the seals of the pressure regulator are also probably shot...

 

+1 -- but using a connection in that connector is a really weird double dirty hack as I think you could do it with a single jumper in the first (...101) relay socket.

So true -- we so often see a hacky "fix" applied that that doesn't fix the real problem.

 

I just solved a mistery on my 308. The pump was allways on and the fuel switch worked normally.. I know if i disconnect it, the pump should run... but it allways did.. so after checking...checking ... I searched for wire colorcodes.. then I found out the Frequency valve connector was put on the CIS
So search better and found the black connector.. connected it and now it functioned ok.
Yesterday I found out the Accumulator was broke so I think this was also the reason to put the fuel pump ON with contact on. (this problem was ther for about 15 years because I know the former owner..)

 

While you are there you could also replace the seals of the pressure regulator.

The pressure is accumulated between the accumulator and the pressure regulator. Whenever one of these fails, you loose the pressure that is required for the next "hot start".

This regulator is bolted into the distributor, next to the fuel input.

https://www.deloreango.com/fr/hot-start-o-ring-kit.html

 

The price of that kit is ok.. but other Items?? In think you have to shop everywhere for good offers.
About the firsts O-ring of the pressure regulator Mark from Salvox.com told me:
Hi
I’m not sure what you are talking about but I presume you mean the primary pressure regulator and if that is the case we never supplied the seals to them because we do not want a customers messing with those parts.
The primary pressure regulator does not have an O ring it has a special Conical seal or a doughnut seal depending which type you have.
If that pressure regulator is gone bad the only thing you can do is buy a new primary pressure regulator.

 

Price-wise it's more or less the same everywhere (Savox, DeLoreanGo, MrKjet eBay store). I like Savox product, because they are the only products guaranteed to be ethanol proof. This being said I had to punch a few hole in the gasket kit in order to properly align everything and as you said they do not provide kits that do allow to mess with the regulator. I prefer to have the highest recommended system pressure as it theoretically offers a bit more flow at WOT, it' just a mater of replacing one shim so worth the mess.

The "whole" pressure regulator is roughly €120 you can make a search on bosch AND (3437010021 OR 035198685 OR f026t03010) . A said that's for my 6 cyl distributors, no idea if this is exactly the same parts for the V8 (presumably yes). Actually this i not the "whole" regulator as the small "conical" plunger at the end of the regulator is specifically fitted to the distributor and once it's bad, the whole distributor has to be replaced.

In any case if the new accumulator does not fix your issue, you know where the other gremlins can be...

 

being busy with this system for weeks now I didnt see any problem to replace that 0-ring at the small "conical" plunger at the end.
I presume its the metal conical end that, if bad should be replaced incl the CIS? Not the 0-ring on it?
Just orderd a new set to repair my CIS in Germany, because the Slavox set is not really a fit and leaks as hell
Replacing the parts of the pressure regulator means in the worst case readjusting max pressure I think?

 

Worst case is never what one would have expected...

You're correct about the conical end.

To answer your question you may have to adjust max SYSTEM pressure, not the control pressure (regulated by the WUR which is a pain to adjust). There is quite a wide range of acceptable system pressure, so even if the calibration is slightly different you may still be within specs.

 

Okm, thanks!! its also English translation..sometimes a guess for me.. But it doesn't make sense not to replace that O-ring on the conical side. (Thats the reply of Mark..?)
Anyway I will replace it as soon as it has arrived! (and check the system pressure AND control pressure!
Busy now with my Alfa Romeo Spider .. when parts are here I go on with the CIS problems