86 Testarossa KE Jetronic problem | FerrariChat

86 Testarossa KE Jetronic problem

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by peteficarra, Apr 14, 2013.

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  1. peteficarra

    peteficarra Karting

    Jun 22, 2010
    158
    ontario
    Full Name:
    peter j ficarra
    I have an 86 US TR that I think has a problem with the KE Jetronic. I have removed the air filter and the flex elbows. When the car is running and I push in the right side control vane it affects the motor as it should. If I push in the left control vane nothing happens, the motor is not affected at all. If I go to the shop manual where it tells how to adjust these vanes it states: motor off, push it down an it should come back up slowly and bounce once at the end of its travel. The right side (pass) does just that. The left side has no resistance at all an snaps back up with no bounce. Since the left side is not running right if at all I wonder if there is something broken or disconnected in the linkage inside the housing.

    I have checked the fuel pump pressure after the filter and it is strong. The car has new fuel filters. If someone has a link to a manual with a blow up of the components please post it. I have had a problem with this car for a year but I have been working out of town and I am just getting to work on it again. The car has no power and the left side is not getting fuel. Any suggestions? (please Ferrari owners only)
     
  2. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
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    same problem I had once with my 87 TR. it was the fuel regulator completly closed and the pressure has been much to high. so take a gauge and check the pressure. good would be to test at the cold start valve.

    "strong pressure" says nothing, so only to measure you see what is wrong
     
  3. carguy

    carguy F1 Rookie

    Oct 30, 2002
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    Jeff
    I assume that your term "control vane" you are referring to the air metering plates? Fuel pressure is what pushes them up to their "at rest" point. So if you push down on the left side metering plate and there is no resistance, then there is no fuel pressure in that fuel distributor. Follow Turbo-Joe's suggestion and see what turns up.
     
  4. peteficarra

    peteficarra Karting

    Jun 22, 2010
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    peter j ficarra
    #4 peteficarra, Apr 15, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2013
    Thanks guys, I looked at it today and hot wired the pump, I do not have a pressure tester, while it was running I cracked the cold start fitting slightly and I was greeted by a spray mist of gas under a a lot of pressure. Is there a place where I could hook up a tester if I buy one? The ones I looked at had a fitting to hook on the fuel rail of a current system, no where near any fitting I see on the TR.
     
  5. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
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    I always take away the original hollow screw with what the fuel line is connected to the cold start valve and take a double long screw to connect also the gauge
     
  6. peteficarra

    peteficarra Karting

    Jun 22, 2010
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    ontario
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    peter j ficarra
    so the fitting on the gauge would have to have to look like the fuel line? A loop for the longer bolt to pass through?
     
  7. peteficarra

    peteficarra Karting

    Jun 22, 2010
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    ontario
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    peter j ficarra
    I checked the pressure at the cold start fitting (fuel distributor)and it was 78 PSI with that fuel pump hot wired. At least I know it is not the fuel pump. Now I am going to pull the air cleaner and check to see if the air flow sensor has "no" resistance with the fuel pump running as it did before with it off. I keep thinking something is unhooked or broken inside the unit.
     
  8. carguy

    carguy F1 Rookie

    Oct 30, 2002
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    If there is no fuel pressure at the plunger inside the fuel distributor head, it's most likely the fuel pressure regulator. It requires a bit of work, but you could swap the regulators and see if the problem follows....
     
  9. peteficarra

    peteficarra Karting

    Jun 22, 2010
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    peter j ficarra
    Thanks for your reply, I will give that a try and let you know.
     
  10. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
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    #10 Steve Magnusson, Apr 20, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2013
    It's also not the pressure regulator as the cold start injector receives the regulated supply pressure and 78 psi is right on spec.

    Continue -- this important.

    Also, after running the fuel pumps and making this test, you can crack the lines open at the cold start injectors to bleed off the regulated system pressure and then make the "mechanical" behavior comparison of the airflow+plunger mechanisms at zero fuel pressure -- this is also important to check.
     
  11. carguy

    carguy F1 Rookie

    Oct 30, 2002
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    Oooooops! I'm dead wrong in my post at 11:45am, sorry about that. I didn't know you had already checked fuel pressure at the cold start injector. Listen to Mr. Magnusson...he's helped many of us out over the years...
     
  12. peteficarra

    peteficarra Karting

    Jun 22, 2010
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    peter j ficarra
    Just hot wired the fuel pump on the 7-12 problem side and the first thing I noticed was the air metering plate had resistance and made a moaning sound when I pressed on it. I started the car with that fuel pump still running and it snarled and ran way better. I let it warm up good and the hot wire fell out of the fusebox and it quit. I then did what you said at the cold start fitting and bled off the pressure. Both sides seemed to be exactly the same with the pressure releived. I was tempted to spray some Gumout in the air metering plates but didn't yet. It did backfire a little on the 7-12 side when I reved it up. Also with the fuel pump running it did not stall when I let off the gas as before. I am going out to switch relays and see if the is any differnce.
     
  13. peteficarra

    peteficarra Karting

    Jun 22, 2010
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    peter j ficarra
    Steve M. and TurboJoe and Carguy,

    Went to plug in the relay and it blew a fuse, bought new fuel pump relays installed them and it ran great. Drove it and its fixed, just flys. Steve, the test where I release the pressure at the cold start valve and compared the movement got it through my head that they move the same with the pressure at 0.

    Thanks again!
     
  14. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
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    nice to hear that your car is running again well.

    so you see there is no magic repairing, only logically thinking :)

    please check the old relais. may be it was a wrong one??? I also once had this problem :( that the fuse blow because of using a wrong relais. until now I never had a bad relais that works so that the fues blow. normaly a relais will not work anymore but then the fuse will not blow. so I wonder a little
     

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