87-328 Cooling System/High Idle issue | FerrariChat
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87-328 Cooling System/High Idle issue

Discussion in '308/328' started by Bob5013, Jun 4, 2015.

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  1. Bob5013

    Bob5013 Rookie
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    Mar 26, 2005
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    Bob Pakan
    #1 Bob5013, Jun 4, 2015
    Did a Major last year. Replaced water pump and installed new OEM thermostat because suspected original thermostat was causing low coolant temps. Car starts and idles at 2K RPM for more than 15 minutes. If run for more than 30 minutes, idle finally returns to 1K RPM (intermittently). Water temp gage only reads a max of 165-170 even when driven hard, ambient temp 60-80F range during drives (original thermostat was marked with 75C). Infrared thermo shows 185F into radiator, 165-175F return, 165-175 at thermostat output pipe . Radiator fans do turn on when idled for 10-15 minutes. Rebuilt AAV. Performed leak-down test (however engine was cold). All cylinders looked good (3-6%). No pressure in reservoir tank, tank barely gets warm. Overfilled reservoir tank once on purpose, car puked out fluid through overflow pipe (strange if no pressure in tank??). Bled system several times, no air apparent during bleed process. Ran pressure test on cooling system at 16 psi. Loses only 3-4 pounds when left over night. Did find and correct one very small coolant leak at connection to radiator supply hose near alternator. Tried new radiator cap, NAPA 7031697, 1.1 bar, no difference in reservoir pressure. Reservoir Coolant temperature sensor always shows continuity but likely due to low reservoir temperature. Disconnected Coolant temperature sensor, idle decreases significantly and approaches 1K RPM. Have not verified correct set point on throttle body idle switch. Can't figure out why no pressure in reservoir tank with engine hot and the new high idle issue after major.?? Idle adjustment screw almost completely closed. Running out of ideas to troubleshoot.
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #2 Steve Magnusson, Jun 4, 2015
    This definitely has to be corrected before worrying about other minor tweaks (and would seem to solve your high idle problem). The fitting on the hot coolant crossover pipe where the small hose connects that goes to the expansion tank is known to corrode on many models -- First, I'd take that hose off and ensure that the ID of the fitting is not blocked. If it is blocked or greatly restricted = you've found the problem. If it seems OK, put the hose back on, start the engine, and disconnect that same small hose at the expansion tank and place into a bucket -- coolant should come out well (in fact, you could even do this test first as it doesn't require so much disassembly on your model). If it does flow well, but you still have the "no flow in the expansion tank therefore the coolant thermoswitch never opens" then you need to look at the other small hose/fitting returning coolant from the expansion tank to the larger coolant pipe (i.e., disconnect that small return hose at the large coolant pipe, inspect the fitting ID, and see if the discharge into a bucket for a few seconds while the engine is running is reasonable or not).

    Good Hunting!
     
  3. Bob5013

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    #3 Bob5013, Jun 4, 2015
    Thanks Steve. Great advice! Will start the plumbing investigation tonight.
     
  4. Bob5013

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    #4 Bob5013, Jun 16, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Disconnected the engine coolant vent hose at the expansion tank and sure enough, zero coolant flow with engine running. Removed air plenum (that was fun, but the good news is I was successful capturing all 8 gasket spacers) and hose and hose fitting appear to be severely corroded. Located replacement hose but am having a heck of a time locating a new replacement vent hose to coolant pipe adapter. May have to make one. Anyone know of a source for this part (Table 22, item #26)??? Thanks.
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  5. ZOOOOMZ

    ZOOOOMZ Karting

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    Tim Cronin
    #5 ZOOOOMZ, Jun 16, 2015
    I replaced mine recently with 106241 Union from Ricambi. It's actually a Hill Engineering stainless steel upgrade part, and works brilliantly. Well worth the $40 it costs, IMHO.
     
  6. Bob5013

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    #6 Bob5013, Jun 17, 2015
    Zoooomz-Thanks for the tip. I have Tom Vails All Ferrari Parts looking for one but the one from Ricambi sounds even better. I will give them a call today. Not sure stainless steel is the right material (long term) per the standard metal Galvanic tables but worth a shot. It has to be better than the original aluminum part. Any hints on how to remove the old one from the coolant manifold pipe (other than a lot of swearing)?? Mine is extremely corroded and completely clogged and I can't seem to get it to budge. More PB blaster soaking overnight and maybe some heat once I drain down some of the coolant. Thanks again!!!
     
  7. ZOOOOMZ

    ZOOOOMZ Karting

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    #7 ZOOOOMZ, Jun 17, 2015
    To remove my old one, I had the water manifold off the car, and used penetrating oil overnight, then applied heat to the manifold with a propane torch. That was enough to budge the old union with vicegrips, and carefully ease it out.

    When installing the new one, I cleaned the hell out of the manifold threads with a stainless steel tube brush in my drill (Harbor Freight), then applied Permatex Cooling System RTV to the threads of the union before screwing it in, and then let it sit on the bench 24 hours before reinstalling the manifold, and reassembling the hose, etc.

    Good luck!
     
  8. Bob5013

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    #8 Bob5013, Jun 17, 2015
    That's my approach also, however I am going to attempt removal with coolant crossover pipe while installed. If that doesn't work, off comes the pipe. Parts on order from Ricambi. Thanks again for the advice!!
     

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