87 tr no spark at coil

First off..check all connections at the fuse panel in the front. Pull the large white mutilwire connectors out of the panel one by one. Look for any burning or brown/black dicoloration on the connector and terminal. Repair as needed and then go from there.

 

I would check connections from the coils to the ignition ECU, located in the left fender-well........there are two connectors, beneath the coolant expansion tank.

I am not sure of what connectors, in the front fuse panel, are ignition related..........problems here, are mainly fuel related.

Just looked at the wiring diagram. The fuse panel is the electrical connection between the ignition switch and the ECU. The ignition switch wiring comes in from the left side, and goes out the bottom sections.......second from the left.

Good luck!

 

The next step would be to see if you get 12 V to the coils. With the ignition on, you should read 12 V between the coil connector (#15) and ground. There are two connectors, at the bottom of each coil.....front and rear. On the right coil, the 12V should be read at one on the terminals on the "front" connector. On the left coil, read 12V on the "rear" connector.

Remember, that these connectors have "2" wires, each. When testing, you should get a 12V reading from only one of them, not both.

 

I assum you put the engine oil in while the engine was cold. Not really a good idea. I bet your oil is now overfull as you must check the oil when the engine is a operating temp.

 

I don't believe that there is an oil level sensor, that affects the ignition.

It would appear that you had/or, still have, a loose connection someplace. Don't be surprised if the problem recurs. You may want to remove, and reconnect, the main long connector to the ECU, itself.

If the engine was stopped for a while, and you then added 2 quarts, you may have TOO much oil in the engine. The oil level should be taken when the engine is warm, and right after shut-down..........within 1 minute, or less. The dipstick will give a false "low" level, if the engine has been shut off for a while, since the oil drains, by gravity into the engine when resting. My dipstick shows normal level, after shut down, yet it shows way below minimum, when checking it with the engine cold.

 

You might want to make a resistance measurement on the (unplugged) flywheel sensors (should be something like 700~1K Ohm -- which will also give you a chance to inspect/reseat those connections as well). Just one small branch (that's easy to reach) on the huge tree you're pruning ...

IIRC, even if you have one dead coil/power module, and it's on the side that needs a good one to keep the engine running, the engine would/should actually fire/cough on the other side when the starter motor was cranking -- do you get any attempt at all to fire during starter cranking or just nothing?

 

Luigi,

Since the problem affects both sides, and happened at the same time, this would suggest something that is common to both coils. I doubt that both coils went south, at the same time!!!!

That would be the following:

1): The flywheel sensors, as Steve suggeted. However, your readings appear normal.

2): The only thing left, as I see it, would be the ignition ECU itself........ouch!!! Try removing and reconnecting the main plug going to the ECU. If the problem is still there, then I would suspect the ECU.

 

Neither. I assume you are looking at the 2 ECUs in the RIGHT fender......one fore and one aft. These are the two FI ECUs, NOT the ignition ECU. Each one controls one bank of the FI system.

The ignition ECU is a single unit, located in the LEFT fender. This ECU controls the whole ignition system. It should be to the left of the expansion tank. The two plugs, below the expansion tank, go to the ignition ECU.

 

Yes it is. The vacuum line comes from the intake manifold. The vacuum helps the ECU in deciding the advance.