I also noticed the different size nuts on Bosch fuel pumps on my TR. Keeps you from mixing up + and- !
Notice that (+) and (-) are cast into the housing, and the positive wire is red and the negative wire is black. Hard to mix up. I wrote R and B on the pump before I noticed the + and - Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes Indeed, you must maintain that attitude. In my youth (wow, what a statement that begs the question of how old I am), I made mistakes. There was no internet, so speaking with folks at the neighborhood parts store was my sole source of guidance. Most were mechanics in a prior life. The satisfaction of success was worth the effort in spite of some missteps.
I am a 3rd generation mechanic 45 years experience on Evinrude Outboard Motors. My own dealership with Evinrude for 25years and I know for a fact that all you need is a shop manual, good tools, a great desire to learn and a little bit of courage and you can repair anything. So I am enjoying this documentary very much. Good for you !!!!
This is an incredible thread, but your last sentence quoted above is very wrong!! It takes skill and guts to tackle a project like this! I used to be a farmer (I’m now newly retired after 30 years in corporate law), so I should have gained and retained some mechanical abilities (with the time now to use those abilities), but I didn’t. Never in a million years would I have the guts or fortitude to undertake anything even close to this. I got tired just reading about it! I was pretty proud of myself for changing the oil in a golf cart last weekend. After reading this thread, I’m not so proud anymore!!
So have I. Learned my lesson a long time ago. Every 512TR since then I have found that the marks are off. Mainly Exhaust cams.
Thanks to all for the kind words. I received word from Wizard Cooling that the re-made radiators are on their way back and should arrive this week. The next step is to replace the two coolant hoses that go from the engine compartment to the heater solenoid under the passenger foot well and to the AC/heater unit. Since the axles are in and the wheels back on, I could take the car off the lift and open the doors. Take out the floor mats and move both seats fully rearward. The black plastic piece around the accelerator pedal is attached by 3 phillips head screws. Lift the plastic piece over the pedal and set aside. Image Unavailable, Please Login Also remove the screw that holds down the carpet covered tunnel cover while you are on the driver's side of the car. Image Unavailable, Please Login Now go to the passenger's side and remove the screw holding the black leather covered piece to the metal floor pan. Set the leather covered piece aside. Image Unavailable, Please Login Remove the other screw holding down the carpet covered tunnel cover. Place tunnel cover to the side. Image Unavailable, Please Login Now you should see something like this: Image Unavailable, Please Login
remove the 4 large chrome phillips head screws that attach the foot well cover and remove the cover. Set aside. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now the foot well area is exposed. At the bottom of the photo are the ECU's for the seatbelt mice. Lotsa wires and connections for those. The red hose is one of the coolant hoses we will be replacing, but unfortunately it disappears up behind an AC duct and is difficult to reach, much less photograph. It attached directly to the AC unit with a typical hose clamp. The vertical black plastic thing on the right side of the photo is the heater solenoid. Look closely and you will see two hoses coming off the back of the solenoid. Hot coolant from the engine comes into the bottom hose. With the solenoid closed, it goes no further. When the solenoid is open (heater on), the hot coolant travels out the upper black hose and up into the AC/heater unit and warms the air. All very logical. There are no diagrams of this anywhere in the repair manuals or the parts manual. I can see a splice with two hose clamps about two inches from the solenoid on the inflow line. Was this stock? Was the line cut and repaired at one time? I intend to replace it with one continuous line. I will not be able to replace the short black hose that goes from the top of the solenoid into the AC/heater unit because there is no way to get to the connection inside the AC unit. Luckily this hose only sees hot coolant when the heater is on (not too often here in Florida) and appears in good shape and pliable. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
It might be easier to remove the solenoid to gain access to the black hose. Does anyone have experience with this? There is ZERO room to work, lying on your back in that cramped little area. When I changed the AC expansion valve I had to call on the wiry athletic frame of Shamile to get into this area. Maybe someone will shed some light on how best to accomplish this task. It seemed a good time to step back and contemplate the next move, and for me there is only one way to ponder puzzling Ferrari questions - I go fishing. I caught this 5 pound beauty on the 3rd cast. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I dug back in the computer and found these images from 2008 when I removed and rewired the dash. It shows the solenoid detached from the body and the red hose detached from the connection to the AC/heater unit (both are capped). It is all much easier with the dash removed. Note also the short black hose disappearing into the AC/heater unit. And of course, my good friend Shamile coming to the rescue. Those are his "working on cars" clothes. Really. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I put a manual shut off valve near solenoid heater valve. The heat sometimes would come on for unknown reason. I never sorted why. Also FCA newsletter had a tip on installing an A/C compressor cut off switch to allow fresh air only, (without A/C) into cabin. I believe the automatic climate control is the problem.
With all hoses beneath the foot well, where did you install the cut-off valve? Was it a manual valve?
After looking at the photos, I thought it might give a little more access if I removed the seat belt ECU's and the harness connectors and the ground. Start by removing the three 10 mm nuts and washers that hold the ECU bracket in place. Then remove wiring harnesses and set ECU solenoids and bracket aside Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next remove the two 10 mm nuts and washers that hold the wiring harness bracket in place. Remove bracket and disconnect wires. The white and yellow plastic pieces pull straight up, allowing the harness to come out straight. The middle harness has a push in clip. There is a single wire also. Then remove the 13 mm nut holding the grounds. Move all wires aside. Much more access now. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now you can see the attachment of the black hose on the lower intake of the solenoid valve and the splice close by. Remove the hose from the solenoid valve. Try not to cut it, like I did. The small hose that connects to the solenoid valve is a formed elbow AND it is a larger sized hose that the hose that comes from the engine compartment (whaaa??). The splice is actually a reducer. Really, Ferrari, was this necessary? I would have reused the elbow because it appeared to be in good shape, but luckily they are available from Ricambi or TRutlands. Make sure you have a towel or two below the solenoid to catch the several ounces of coolant that remain. In the third photo you can just see the edge of the AC expansion valve above the red hose and you can now understand why I needed Shamile's help replacing that component. I tried to remove the solenoid itself, but it is wedged behind the AC hoses, so I left it alone The hose clamps take a 6 mm socket. I can barely get sight of the red hose attachment. Getting the new hose on will be fun. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
here is a photo of my spare AC unit, so you can get an idea of where the red hose attaches. As you see, the black hose from the top outflow of the solenoid valve disappears into the body of the AC unit. The red hose attaches to the bare copper pipe. The AC lines are covered in insulation. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I installed the small manual valve near the top of the foot well. I can access the valve without removing anything. I believe my Seat belt modules are located in the forward part of the console (87TR). I will take photo later today.
Sometimes when its raining you need a little flow thru air! I will look up what wire to splice for the Compressor cut off.
I would think the red hose is not original Ferrari? You can install a manual valve on any side of the heater core. It is a flow thru system, and the solenoid is by default always open. When called for cold the solenoid gets a ground that closes the valve.
If you are able to reach a hose clamp on that black hose where it connects at the AC unit while the entire assembly is in the car.... change your name to Houdini! Image Unavailable, Please Login
