The oil sump and oil cooler radiator took a while to clean up, due to the fact they had many years of dripped oil and grunge on it. A lot of Brake Kleen and towels and scrubbing followed by some touch up paint and it turned out OK Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
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Next the oil cooler radiator shroud goes in on the inside edge of the RH radiator It is held in place by one 13 mm bolt and washers. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next the oil cooler radiator gets attached to 3 mounting points using 10 mm lock nuts and washers. I had to grind away a bit of the flange of the oil cooler radiator so it would fit next to the fan. It takes a bit of coaxing to get it in place. You can see all 3 mounting points in the photo above (last post). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next the plastic shroud for the generator cooling hose gets fitted on the inside edge of the LH radiator. It wedges in the space between the LH radiator and the LH fuel tank and is attached by two 10 mm nut and washers to the studs that also hold clamps for the wiring harness. The upper plastic attachment point for the shroud had been broken off in the past, but the lower stud seemed to hold it securely. I had to remove the fuel filler hose to access the area and secure the shroud. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
My plastic corrugated hose had cracked in 2 places, and there are no spares available (I found one damaged used hose in Europe for $105). I found a piece of flexible plastic in the toiler repair section of Lowes that fit tightly in the hose. After some trimming it was glued in place and seems to be an effective repair. The hose is then screwed onto the flange (after letting the glue set overnight). I then re-attached the fuel filler hose. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Lastly, the oil sump gets put back. On the rear of the sump is an open flange with a rubber grommet. This fits over the metal pin as the rear attachment point. You can't see it. The other two attachments are connected to threaded brackets on the firewall and the frame. A 13 mm bolt with lock washer goes through a cupped washer that holds a rubber insulator. There is a metal spacer in the middle. followed by the same rubber insulator and cupped washer on the bottom of the oil sump bracket. This whole assembly sits on top of the frame brackets. The bolt threads into the frame brackets. It takes some blind luck to get the rear grommet over the frame pin, but when in place, the two other attachment points will line up. It's a pain. Hint: plug your oil lines - there is always a little oil left in the hoses and sump that make a huge mess during installation. Don't ask me how I know. This is the cupped washer and one of the rubber insulators. There is a metal sleeve that fits between the cupped washers and prevents crushing. Image Unavailable, Please Login This is the rear attachment point and rubber grommet that fits over the frame pin. Image Unavailable, Please Login This is the frame pin over which the above rubber grommet fits. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sump in place Image Unavailable, Please Login Proper sequence of bolt, cupped washers and rubber insulators (metal sleeve not visible) Image Unavailable, Please Login
Carefully re-attach the hose from the cooler radiator to the sump. Make sure the hose is perpendicular to the fitting and tighten the large nut hand tight until it looks like this (fully seated). Then snug it up. Re-attach the electrical connector and ground (10 mm lock nut). There is a frame stud near the electrical connection that appears to be the only place to attach the ground ring terminal. I will try to research, but can anyone confirm this placement is correct? I will get pics today. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
And we can check yet another part off our list as done. At your leisure attach the wheel arch cover with nine 10mm bolts and washers. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The old AC compressor was working OK, but I felt a new unit was in order. One call to Joeand Gretchen at Polar Bear in Ft Lauderdale and I had a new Sanden unit, identical to original except it has 2 pulleys (we only need the outer one). They knew exactly what I needed. It arrived in 3 days. I guess I could swap out the pulley and clutch assembly but this seemed like a lot of trouble for nothing. I have an R-12 system. The compressor comes filled with 6 oz of ester (not PAG) oil. I drained it to make sure and refilled it with 6 oz of new oil. I could probably have skipped this step. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next transfer the bracket to the new compressor. Remove the three 17 mm bolts and one lock nut from the old unit and then the bracket. Here I encountered a problem - the upper bolt hit the edge of the rear pulley, requiring a bit of grinding of the back pulley edge to let it pass. That pulley is not used anyway. Replace bracket and bolts the same way they came off the old unit. Image Unavailable, Please Login Here is the bolt hitting the pulley edge Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login After a little grinding, the bolt seats correctly. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The new unit even had the correct electrical terminal and diode already in place. One of my original fittings had some buggered up threads and was replaced with another call to Polar Bear ($35 from Joe, over $100 from Ricambi). I also got two 90 degree R-134 fittings to make hook up to my gauges way easier. I always replace and oil my O-rings. Remember to remove the Scrader valves from the original fittings before screwing on the retrofit units. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Schrader valve removal Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login 90 degree R-134 fittings make it much easier to connect gauges. Image Unavailable, Please Login Here you can see the difference in position of a straight (red) vs 90 degree fitting (blue). Image Unavailable, Please Login
The AC compressor is secured to the block by a large bolt, which acts as a pivot, and the tensioning assembly. There is an important bushing that inserts into the cam cover mounting hole so the bolt fits tightly. Grease helps. Insert and begin threading the bolt (don't tighten) and make sure the compressor pivots easily, then put the belt on loosely and make sure it lines up with the crank pulley. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Insert the tensioning fitting through the curved slot and into AC bracket. Attach locknut and washer, but don't tighten. Make sure compressor pivots freely, then raise compressor until belt tightens and thread tensioning bolt through bracket and into tensioning fitting. Tighten the tensioning bolt (13 mm) until the belt is snug. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login This is the sequence of the tensioning assembly (compressor bracket not in place). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Finding and setting the correct tension on the AC and alternator belts has always been a mystery to me, but that dilemma was solved by Flash32 in my thread "AC belt tension" in the Technical forum. Using the Krikit belt tensioning gauge, the AC belt is set to 50-55 kg and the alternator belt is 45-50 kg. The Ferrari Service Bulletin suggests re-tensioning to the same values after 100 miles, then leave it alone. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The Krikit is an inexpensive, fairly accurate device for measuring belt tension ($12.07 on Amazon, search Gates 91107 belt tension gauge). You want the Krikit 1 Image Unavailable, Please Login
So first, snug your 17 mm pivot bolt and the 13 mm lock nut on the tensioning fitting, but make sure the compressor can move. Put the rubber strap on the Krikit over your index finger. On the bottom of the Krikit is a flange that fits against the edge of the belt. Make sure the movable black indicator is all the way down. Now place the Krikit on the middle of the belt and press gently until it clicks. Then kg of tension are indicated by the level of the front of the black indicator. Turn the Krikit side ways and note where the front of the black indicator intersects the kg scale. The amount of tension required was much more than I had estimated by hand. Keep tightening the tensioning bolt and rechecking until 50-55 kg is achieved, then tighten the 17 an 15 mm fasteners and recheck again. Take your time, it's trial and error. Pretty neat device. You can also draw a line on the side of the Krikit with a magic marker at the 45, 50 and 55 kg levels to make reading easier. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just for example, here the device is measuring 20 kg. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login This example is 55 kg Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Jimbo Not sure if you did for picture purpose but you have the gauge on the wrong side if belt it appears Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
Nevermind..looking again it is correct ..the ribs threw me at first ..sorry ...my bad Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk