97 F355 Spider ECU Issue/Smog Issue

There is a clamp around it that holds the idle regulator up to the airbox.

I am concerned about your short term trim always being "zero" If I recall correctly, this is from the maf while the o2 sensor more affects the ltft. I might be wrong, but I think thats a clue.


Jay

 

There is a rubber insulator that goes in between, like a grommet with a split in it.

Squirt carb cleaner through there just for the heck of it.

I have more experience with BMW, which is still Bosch and many of the same parts. I think 10% sets a code, and typical is around 2-3%, because if it is more than that the ltft is kicking in anyway.

Jay

 

Tom,
As Jay mentioned the idle control motor is held in place by a metal clamp, but the clamp should have a vinyl covering on the inside and should hold it pretty well, though not real tight. You can play around a bit with the bolt that holds that clamp to get a decent angle to force it into the rubber grommet that holds the idle control motor pretty well. If the vinyl covering is loose, torn or missing, I would replace it, I had to do that, and they are available from Ricambi. Good idea to start checking/inspecting the condition of all the components past the MAF up to the intakes. Let us know what you find, but certainly sounds like you are really close to getting this nailed down. Best of luck on the search.

 

Tom,
Can you post a picture of the idle control valve? And the Bosch part number? A 1 cm gap does not sound right, and either the clamp or ICV could be an incorrect part.

 

Okay, the clamp is simply missing the black vinyl covering...it will still fit a little loosely, even with a new one. Just from the picture, it appears to be the correct ICV.

Roger on the rubber isolation mounts/grommets...I had two broken ones I replaced recently. The heat from the exhaust is not kind to them...

 

Oh well. I was hoping I found a clue for you.

Jay

 

Just a quick thank you to members of the board as the information contained here allowed me to properly diagnose and solve my issue.

Drove car home a few weeks ago and encountered the lovely SDL flash, intermittent hold steady and flash again all the way home. Don't normally drive her in the rain, but that day happened to provide unanticipated rain. Picked up an Alterra blue tooth OBDII reader, shot the detail to the computer and picked up two codes, P1445 & P1451. Reviewed the boards and pulled the culprit ECU (bank 1) and noted deterioration (cracked along edges), not surprising as it was the original black unit. Went ahead and ordered all 3 as others showed similar conditions. Replacement was a bit tight on passenger side, but overall I rate this as an easy install.

Attended the Inland Empire gathering this past weekend and problem appears to be solved, no further warnings or codes after clocking about 300 miles.

Thank you gents.

 

Excellent! I only wish my 348 was OBD2. I have a Bluetooth reader and app for my android phone. I've had a couple SDLs solid with bank cutout but not much since I corrected the battery cable connection. It was loose from dealer and totally unbelievable! I suspect the moisture issue since the last one was just as I was backing out from the shop that applied the clear bra after a wash and then the cold snowy lot.