There are a number of coatings that are used depending the type of casting. They range from a zinc chromate type used in the past for aluminum, to Glyptol(and electrical insulating coating) to Rustoleum oil based red primer and now days cataylized epoxy coatings. Really any coating that has superior bonding qualities along with a fairly decent heat range will work quite well. Mike
"Glyptol" was the name I had heard, for coating engine castings to help shed the oil, and seal them as well......there probably is a modern coating system that would perform as well, or better.
That is Glyptol shown above in the pic of my engine. Previously it was coated w/ zinc chromate [yellow-green color].
It was Loctite 990 an impregnation sealant for castings that I think has been replaced by Loctite Resinol.
So after all the metal working was done and getting things correctly the blocking is in process and measuring edges etc.. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
You're right.. i'll try and keep up on this more with the other 1000 things we have to do daily here Thanks!
Just love the car, AND the work you guys do... and it's nice to see it in pictures... I know you guys are BUSY and that this is being done on spare time and I for one REALLY appreciate it, so if I did not say it before, Thanks for sharing...
Here's the daytona in blue sealer after blocking and guidecoat process.. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Interesting to compare your pics with the period ones Ed Niles posted today. Scaglietti didn't put in quite as much care
It's amazing how great these cars look, even in the stripped down form. Love the lines in the Daytona. A true masterpiece of automotive art! It will always be at the top of my dream car list, and I'm loving seeing this one come back to life.
The yellow/green coating on the Daytona is the zinc chromate that you mentioned. Not only is it used to seal the casting, it also was used to help keep any sand left over from the casting process stay stuck in the casting and not come out in the oil, and it smoothes over the casting, helping oil return to the sump. Brian Brown Patrick Ottis Co.
"Blue Sealer". The prep work doesn't have to be quite so fussy. It would give a smooth and consistent color surface to paint the final color on. That way you would use less paint on the body to hide any differences in color. Maybe the final color will be blue to. How about a close-up picture of how the top of the front fender crease meets the parking light area on the front of the car? Is it a base coat, clear coat finish or original lacquer finish you are doing?? CH
Here we have clear being sprayed onto the car and then 2 shots of the car drying afterwards.. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This is just raw color and clear, with lots of texture in the finish. The next several weeks, the body will be sanded about a dozen times, every time with finer grit sand paper, and then polished 6 times, again with every polish, a finer polish being used. The outcome will be pretty nice! Stay tuned! Gary Bobileff
How much clear did you drop on the body if you did so in preparation of such an elaborate after-paint process?
Here we have the Daytona outside baking in the sun. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login