Now, take care! This is a bomb! How many of you have checked the receiver drier? Which year was it manufactured? When did you last change it? They should be changed every third year. Basic service! Mine is marked " Kenmore Intl" LGKET20 Manufactured week 16 1991......yes 1991. It has been there since the car was made. Now, the question........where do I find a new one???? No use making all conversions with the new compressor and leave this **** sitting there. Got to change it to a modern one. Guess this one is rotten inside anyway. //B//
I have actually saved these. Before you dump it try putting it in an oven at 250 degrees for 1 hour. It just has a desicant in it.
What r we talking about? Post a picture so even us hack mechanics can follow, please. FBB hasn't seen an A/C unit in his car since, well, never.
Yeah it could be done it you needed too but I wouldn't bother if you had a compressor failure, that's the first place the shrapnel from the inside of your compressor turns up
250? Damn. If you said 350, we could bake cookies at the same time! Some 348 Bro-Ho cookies sure would taste good now.
I did what FBB said.........put it in the owen for an hour and a half at 250 degrees. It smelled like **** which means alot of bad things came out of there. Now, what I will do is to put that old drier back and charge the A/C system with new 134 gas and then we will see if it works or not. I have checked here but you can not find R12 here in Sweden anymore. If you go across the Baltic you can because they have in Poland.............and both countries belongs to the common market. My brain is obviously too small because I do not see the logic in that. Guess it is a question for smart politicians. It says in the book 975g of R12 should be the right volume. How much is that in R134A??? 650g or something? //B//
Don't forget to vac the air con system after you install the drier and I would also add a hint of oil in the system also
R12 uses a completely different oil to R134a, r12 has a mineral oil, and r134a has a synthetic, and they are NOT compatible; things will start to fail quickly if you mix them, and as the mineral oil is hydroscopic, if it's been in there a long time it will have water in it. You should drain the compressor, and blow out all the lines, evaporator and condensor before filling with fresh oil. The oil you need is known as PAG, (polyalckylene glycols), and as a rough guide you you should pour 80cc's of oil into your compressor, ( through the line conection- high pressure side) before staring vacuum and then recharge procedures. Personally i wouldn't recomend drying out the reciever bottle, as there will be oil and all sorts of other nasties lurking within. A drier bottle is a lot cheaper then a compressor!