Hi all Since I have changed to R134 refrigerant which is smaller molecules than R12 refrigerant. It does leak slowly every 40-60 days need top up . I am thinking of replacing the A/C pipes from the engine bay all the way to the dashboard . Has anyone done that ? How difficult to do this ? My engine is out for piston ring replacement so I thought it’s probably a good time to do so . What’s ur view ? Thanks Leslie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have already replaced the drier and whatever I can see from outside including compressor . I am not sure how difficult is the A/C hose pipe from the engine bay all the way to dashboard . I cannot See it underneath the car too due to it’s all covered up. I am Wondering if anyone has done it ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Have just had this done, but the car is apart for restoration already. All of the new lines (Lined for the smaller 134A molecules, though we're running real R12), expansion valve, drier, fittings, AND a larger, more efficient condenser (roughly the same size as one for a Kenworth) was all about $600. Can't break down the labor cost because each block of time is also covering other work at that moment. However: Remove all AC lines, fit dryer to measure to have new one made - pull all water lines & wash out tube cavity under car - wash, scrub & inspect all 4 tubes for spraying lizard skin - drill out rivets in RH rockers for access to vac / AC lines was one block of 8 hours Mock up radiator / condenser - make alum mounts for condenser, weld to radiator - pull firewall & spray lizard skin on back side - install front water pipes to radiator & center tubes - cut / fit new small hoses to heater box was one block of 8 hours Finish water line fitment, A/C lines and reinstall Fuel pumps and Accumulators was one block of 8 hours Evaporator/heater and its box have been rebuilt also, but are on a different invoice. Fitting some of this stuff, especially freshly-LizardSkinned tubes/panels through/around the chassis tubes and all of the masking/unmasking involved to shoot the roof and back window/package tray area, ate quite a bit of the time.
Thanks !!! , this is great info . There are hundreds of rivets on the panel underneath the car . If I remove the panel as per shown in picture circled in red by drilling out the rivets . I should be able to see all the A/C piping to have easy access to remove them correct ? Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
pretty sure you just drill out the twenty or so rivets in the middle of the car. Tiny panel, 20 inches by 5 inches.
I have my pass side fuel tank out right now. there are two connections for the air conditioning lines with O-rings. This is a US car. For fun you should remove and inspect the fuel tank to pump fittings to inspect for rust as the fittings are steel. Mine were 50% plugged and the internal tank filters were destroyed. Jeff Pintler 89 348tb, 86tr, 99 360 3-pedal, 05 Bobcat S-160
There are internal filter screens inside the fuel tanks (think screen-wrapped perforated pipe, in simplest terms), prior to the fuel even getting to the fittings. One of mine was "OK" but is getting reworked. The other was just gone, and a new one is being fabricated.
I have removed my engine for belt change. I really want to change all the a/c hose as it leaks slowly probably due to age of the hose and also the R134 has smaller molecules . Now here is what I found I took a pic from the fuel tank area . Very strange that my A/c hose from compressor goes into the fuel tank ( highlighted Green ) and from the other end of the fuel tank ( highlighted Red) outflow to the indash evaporator . How does this work ?? Why will it go thru the fuel tank ?? My mechanic is worried to remove them . Pls share your experience , thanks Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I also once wondered about that - no euro version has this I think that this is only for cooling down the fuel temperature a little for the exhaust emission controls?
I believe it would cool the refrigerant, The fuel in the tank should remain constant. Or it was just a convenience to run the lines. Curious why not on Euro models?
134 leaks like a sieve. Well known issue and required the industry to re engineer hoses to make it suitable. One industry supplier I use jokingly says its hard to keep in a steel bottle. Compressor rebuilds have become commonplace because of the stuff.
Fuel cooling. Has evaporator in tank. I'm guessing your mechanic is not a Ferrari mechanic. I have changed A/C hoses and never considered removal of the panel. No need. Simple enough to just pull through.
Cannot wait to see what terrible characteristics 1234YF has in store for us. As of now it makes R12 look cheap.
Yes you are right , we only have around 3 testarossa left in Singapore so not many mechanic knows this . Can I assume that I don’t need to touch the fuel tank , just remove the inflow and outflow Hose as per highlighted green and red ? And I believe the dashboard don’t need to fully remove too if I only change the hose up to the front evaporator and indash cooling evaporator ? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The Testarossa A/C was designed for R-12. If you can recover or replenish R12, that would be the best !
Correct on the fuel tanks. It has been a while but as I recall both AC hose fittings under the dash are accessible without dash removal.
Absolutely. I only use R12 in R12 cars. Many shops don't because they dont want to be bothered with buying the equipment required by law and they make more selling you on the very bad idea of conversion and then of course they get to sell you a recharge every season. There is good money to be made screwing up your A/C. If you shop smart virgin R12 is less now than it was 10 years ago.
