A/C Pressure Switch Question | FerrariChat

A/C Pressure Switch Question

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by moysiuan, May 21, 2008.

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  1. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
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    Nov 1, 2005
    4,216
    Canada
    If the low pressure switch at the reciever dryer is disconnected, will the compressor then engage with a low pressure in the system? While doing an A/C recharge, in order to get the compressor to turn initially to take the charge, rather than a 12 volt jumper to the A/C (which in my Monidial is difficult to access) to briefly engage the clutch for this purspose, I thought this approach would be simpler?
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    #2 Steve Magnusson, May 21, 2008
    Last edited: May 21, 2008
    Yes, but you don't just disconnect the wires from the low pressure switch -- you would remove the wires from the low pressure switch and then connect the two terminals in the wiring harness together (with some sort of short jumper wire) to simulate a properly closed low pressure switch for the compressor clutch to go "on". (Most modern cars have a combined high & low pressure refrigerant switch, but the procedure is the same -- remove the wires from switch and then connect the two terminals in the wiring harness together to simulate a closed switch.)

    What model/year/version Mondial?
     
  3. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
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    1988 Mondial Cab 3.2.

    Thanks for the quick response. Should be much easier to jump the switch as you ntoed than fiddle around at the far back of the engine bay area with a 12 volt source while the manifolfd and charge equipment is all set up in the same area...perhaps a small initial charge into the evacuated system with the engine off will be sufficient to allow the clutch to engage when the engine is turned on for the remaining charge, but I want to be ready for all of the possible surprises...

    When calibrating the charge volume, I see from various sources the 134a charge weight should be anywhere from 80% to 95% of the charge wieght of r12. Big range, the Sanden manual suggests 95%, but I don't want to overcharge?
     
  4. Ferrari Fanatic

    Ferrari Fanatic Formula 3

    Apr 2, 2003
    1,317
    SoCal
    The safest way is to use gauges and watch pressure readings on the high and low side. A cheater way to do it is to charge until the glass viewer on the reciever/dryer goes from foggy to clear, then stop ASAP.
     
  5. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2004
    2,345
    No. Both min and max pressure switches are wired in series and both must be in range before closing and must both close to provide 12v to the compressor clutch. Removing connectors ensures no clutch. If the compressor fails to engage, another factor is the Boretti thermostat which, if setting is off, or the tubing is broken, the thermo switch won't close and the compressor stays off regardless of freon pressures.



    ________________________
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    http://www.ferrari308gtbi.com/
     
  6. Steve King

    Steve King F1 Rookie

    Feb 15, 2001
    4,367
    NY
    If you are using 134 then you DON'T want to see a clear glass. It only takes a 80% charge so the best bet is use the gauges to get the correct fill. If you are using the DIY cans they have a gage built into most of them and it has the required pressure shown on the gage. If you are using R12 then you want to see a clear sight glass. On the earlier 308's they only had a low pressure switch attached to the receiver/drier. I just jumper this out as I charge the system.
     
  7. leorosa

    leorosa Karting

    Feb 26, 2008
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    I agree with that.134a have greater pressure than R12.
     
  8. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
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    Nov 1, 2005
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    Thanks for all the comments. I did jump the pressure switch, and this worked, and engaged the compressor as hoped. I had replaced the compressor, and condensor, etc., and therefore needed a full charge. After evacuating (using a homemade pump from an old fridge compressor), did the full charge based on the charge weight as set out in the manual, 1.2kg of freon, scaled back at 90% for the 134a, and further calculations to accomodate the oil volume and residual oil in the system (some examples set out in the Sanden compressor manual which was available on-line) A/c now works perfectly, and the low pressure reads about 30lb. at a fairly cool 60-65F ambient temperature. Will recheck at a higher ambient temperature to make sure the pressures remain within range.

    I know a/c systms require expertise, but this was a straighforward component renewal matter, all other components in good shape, system previously flushed at a shop, and lots of research on my part. Long live the handyman...
     

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