Hello all, I recently acquired a 308 and the CVs on both sides are in need of a rebuild, with the inboard boot on the passenger side being torn and therefore making this operation fairly urgent. I purchased Porsche CV boot kits that are apparently a direct match to the 308 CV boots. The Porsche part number is 928 332 924 02. Each kit comes with a rubber boot, clamps and enough grease to repack the joint. It also comes with a Porsche 911 specific end cap which is not used with the 308. I would like to source the fasteners locally. Can anybody tell me the spec and grade of the bolts and nuts needed for the job? I'm guessing that I may destroy at least some of the existing hardware when I remove the CVs. Also, none of the threads mentioned the torque specification to use when reinstalling the CVs. If someone could share this I'd appreciate it. I will be posting photos of the job while I do the work.
I did this job a couple of years back on my 328. I'm not sure what kind of 308 you have, but the 308QV and 328 parts manuals show the same part numbers for the socket head cap bolts (Ferrari part# 101632) and locking castle nuts (Ferrari part# 101633). Assuming the same parts, post #4 should answer most of your questions: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276972. As far as the bolt torque . . . Per the 328 tech spec manual: "Securing axle shafts to flanges (10x 1.25): 8 Kgm or 57.5 Ft.Lbs." Hope this helps.
Check the length there maybe interference. On the 328 they are 65mm a difficult length to find. I ordered 65mm and they shipped 70mm.
I recommend you just buy the correct parts from the usual sources. You have to make sure the hardness and heat resistance is correct or tougher for the replacement part. If it is substandard ...... And many sales folks in hardware stores do NOT know how to read this data. I found the OEM bolts for a song & a dance from one supplier and the nuts from another. I got the whole she-bang for slightly less than 2/3rds the cost from any single supplier.
+1 Buying "life or death" parts such as these from any source which is unproven is sheer madness. Even if they are sold as the correct grade how do you know they are genuine? Substandard bolts are widespread, they even get into the aircraft industry. Superformance sell the bots and nuts.
Just take it apart and then figure out if you even need to replace anything. Mine came apart fine (I know others have struggled). I'm not sure a CV joint bolt is life & death severity, I see stuff breaking should things go wrong. Let's all try not to find out, though.
Thanks for all the advice. I'm aware of the risk of buying substandard hardware and have no intention of doings so. I have easy and quick access to a very wide range of fasteners from Acklands Grainger and McMaster Carr so I figured I would go that route versus buying stuff in the yellow box. I can always go the Super Performance or Ricambi route, but if I know the size (thanks lonnie77 and SeattleM5) and the grade I can source what I need locally and at very little cost relative to having parts shipped in from the UK or the US. So if anyone knows the required hardware grade please let me know. Thanks in advance!
As discussed in the post I referenced above, the socket head cap bolt grade is 12.9 (Proof Load 970 MPa, Minimum Yield Strength 1100 MPa, Minimum Tensile Strength 1220 MPa).
Thanks! Sorry, I actually read through that whole thread and managed to miss where you shared the info about the bolts. I was hoping to find a Porsche part that could do the job but 65mm is an odd size indeed. I tried the web site where you found your fasteners and unfortunately it seems to be down. The search continues!
I finished removing, repacking and replacing the passenger side CV a couple of weeks ago and it went fairly smoothly. I bought a few of the correct nuts and bolts as spares through Ferrari of Ontario.. Their trade price was competitive and they had the parts shipped to my door within a couple of days. removing the CV was easy. I started by using compressed air to clean out the cap screws heads and ensure the Allen head bit would seat well. Then sprayed all the nuts liberally with penetrating lubricant. All of the bolts broke free without much drama and in the all the hardware was reusable with the exception of 2 nuts. One thing I'll mention is that the new nuts require significantly more muscle to put on compared to the new hardware. Their self locking properties seem way better than the nylock alternative. Once the CV was off I found that the transmission end had virtually no CV grease left. In fact the only thing that saved it was the transmission fluid that had migrated into the CV joint. It acted as a lubricant and kept the balls and races from self destructing. Sealing the trans flange on both sides of the engine will be a spring project. The Porsche 930 turbo repacking kits were an identical replacement for the Ferrari originals.. Retail is about $65 for each end. In my stack of service receipts from the previous owner I found one for $5000 from Ferrari for replacing the passenger side CV in the distant past! Viva la DIY in this case
