A Question?

Cliff,

I tried using 100% argon which is what I use for stainless but was not too happy with the results. I was told to use a mix of helium/argon? I am using the green stripped tungsten, red strip for stainless.

 

Hi Robin,

Interesting. I've taken a lot of my cues in trying to refine my tecnique from this manual: http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Welding-Handbook-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760321728/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1278228187&sr=1-1

For the most part, have found it quite helpful, including gas mixes and wire choices. The helium/argon mix should be a good mix for most grades of aluminum. There are some good aluminum welding vids on YouTube that may be helpful as well: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0keQs0aMCg

 

100% argon good mix for aluminium. You are using AC on the torch right? High-frequency helps as well.

 

Haha, that is good, for a second I thought this would end up on eBay as "just detailed" or with "fresh paint" or maybe "a few minor dings." lol

 

Use straight argon. Get a dual regulator and back purge the welds.

 

Sweet project. Don't be afraid to post up as many pics as you want. Even if you don't get a reply every time, people are watching!

 

I can't remember if I switched it to A/C... will try again. Thanks for the reminder.

 

It won't work on DC so I'm sure you did.

 

It sounds like he is using MIG since he mentions the spool? In that case he's not using any tungsten electrodes.

As for TIG, You can use almost any tungsten for aluminum and they will work fine but often it's a waste of money to use anything but the cheaper 100%(GRN) tungsten on Aluminum. I have known guys that use the 2%(red) and point them like you would for steel alloys but it's overkill and you should be carefull breathing in the stuff when you gring the thoriated electrodes. It will end up balling on the end anyway after the first 20 seconds of welding. I have done this when I want really good control of where I want the heat to go at the start of a difficult weld in a tight spot.

 

It can be done with DC but you don't get any cleaning and it's really a bi***, similar to welding aluminum with oxy/acet. I don't recomend trying it unless you really need 100% of the heat going to the base metal. Usually only done on thick aluminum over 3/8" or so and you have to fight with the crap on the surface of the puddles and move very fast. Aluminum oxide forms on the surface almost as fast as you can clean it and it melts at a higher temp than the aluminum below the oxide layer. The AC blasts the ocide layer off by ionizing the argon or helium. Using DC you have to clean the best you can and fight your way through the oxide layer.

 

I've heard that but never tried it. I don't know anyone that does that so I glossed over it.

 

You've described my welding aluminum "difficulties" 100%.

 

My first attempt at welding aluminum was with a brand new Lincoln TIG. I spent the better part of a year burning through piles of metal and getting frustrated. Many people including the people at Lincoln gave me advice which didn't help. One day I watched someone else weld and I couldn't see the difference between thier technique and mine. Turns out my welder was defective from the factory. One of the SCRs had been wired wrong, only showed up in AC mode. I also got a contaimineted bottle of gas early on. Try someone elses machine or have someone come over and try yours to make sure you are not just banging your head against a wall.

 

Wow, talk about frustration! Man I'd be pissed.

 

Very frustrating. And I thought welding thin gauge stainless steel was hard....

Can't imagine how anyone welding aluminum with a torch.

 

There are some people that are really good at it and swear that it's the only way to go for welding aluminum gas tanks. It requires a special flux. I tried it along with a friend of mine, he could do it pretty well but I had no luck at all. Both of us had a lot of experience welding with a torch.

mk e found a special paste for welding thin Stainless without back purging. He said it wasn't great but it did work. You'll have to google 308 V12 to find him since he's not posting updates on his project here.

 

Thin stainless is a lot easier if your welder has a pulser on it. Set it for a low amp background (just enough to keep the arc lit) and high amp pulse, about 10%-15% on time.

 

Thin Stainless? My pulser on my TIG only works in AC mode. Are you using AC for stainless?

 

My pulser works on DC too. What model TIG do you have?

 

Lincoln Precision Tig225. I just read through the manual again and it didn't specify that it only works in AC so maybe it does work in all modes? I just never thought about using it on anything but aluminum.

 

Nice work.

 

I think my first Ferrari is gonna be a saved (read:salvaged) one. It's awesome to see one so far over the edge being saved. I can't wait to see the final results. I imagine mine won't be as severe as I don't have the abilities clearly shown in your project. this is an awesome thread