" A successful PPI" What does that mean?

There is no “legalities” associated with a PPI unless it is a fraudulent survey with the inspector in cahoots with the seller – it happens. Treat the PPI like an unregulated boat survey with anything out of the "norm" as being a potential deal breaker. Remember, "Buyer beware". Unless the contrary is stated in writing, the sale is "as is, where is". I would guess “norm” would be defined to include wear and tear associated with a car of a give year and mileage. Obviously, it is very important to select a qualified inspector who will state up front what will be covered by the PPI and the fee that you will be charged. Again, buyer beware.

 

I think, as you pondered, it's pretty much as with your boat experience. As for meaning of successful, that of course is going to be subjective and based on stated issues and your tolerance for those discovered during the PPI. My PPI was overwhelmingly positive - i.e. my mechanic was enthusiastic about the car esp at the price - and revealed nothing of which I wasn't aware or expecting - so I guess you could consider it successful. If a PPI turns up significant issues not already known or expected based on stats or stated history of a car I think most would consider it not so positive and therefore unsuccessful.

The point at which a buyer would declare a PPI unsuccessful I think is when any discovered conditions surpass his tolerance or expectation given the car's stats/stated condition. I think a deposit should be given only along with seller's acceptance of a reasonable, conditional agreement regarding PPI results - which may need to be generally outlined.

 

I paid for an independent PPI, and agreed to the following:

A) I absorb any issues up to $1000 (you may wish to make that $0, depending on the car and the price).
B) The seller pays for all issues total up to $5000 to be fixed.
c) Over $5000, I walk away clean and get my deposit back.

Just my deal... YMMV

 

Is there a standard or concensus what should be covered in a 328 model's PPI?

 

I agree with him. There are many people who fudge ppi because of their relationship with the owner. It happens with even the ones you think have a good reputation.

 

One thing to remember about a PPI is that any time you are paying a shop to find problems- they will find problems. I know of several shops who will strictly limit their PPI's to compression and leakdown tests. Other than that any 20 year old car will have issues. EG. the air conditioning sucks and on a good day the windows will work, and the car will balk going into second while cold. Unless you are paying 6 figures or close to that for your 308 it is unreasonable to expect a car w/ zero issues. As a buyer you have to decide what is a deal braker and what you can live with, don't try to quantify it w/ a dollar amt as a previous poster did. Personally, for me deal breakers would be: failing compression/leakdown test; branded title; grey market car (not a bad thing in itself, but can always open up a new can of worms- always call Dick Merrit at DOT- a really nice guy who is a great help and a ferrari expert- to find out if your car has aby legal issues- as far as t-belts/clutch/water pump go those can be negotiated in the price. ONe more little piece of advice do not put alot of stock in Carfax because on older cars their record just don't go that far back. Things that a PPI will probably uncover and I would disregard eould be, cracked belts (drive belts not T belts) leaking shocks, bushings, brake flush, brake linings/rotors and other obviously maintainance issues. As a final thought I would mention tires especially on TRX shod cars because a fresh set of TRX's will easily set you back $2000 dollars and as far as I know coker tire is currently the only source for them Good luck, but also remember nothing beats your own visuual inspection of the car- DO NOT RELY ON PHOTOS- I always like to hand wash a car myself prior to purchase because nothing els will give you a better up close and personal w/ the cars body and most issues will present them selves in this process. The other thing I insist upon is starting the car stone cold- any smoke issues will be readily apparent- also sycnchro issues will present themselves- but remember even on the best cars shifting into seond while cold is an issue- not a big deal that is just how they are. Hope this helps at all.

Pres