About to pull the Boxer engine | FerrariChat

About to pull the Boxer engine

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by henryk, Dec 3, 2006.

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  1. henryk

    henryk Formula Junior

    Dec 9, 2003
    479
    Door County, WI
    I am ready to pull the engine, but have a couple of questions:

    I have an engine puller (cherry picker) with a steel cable that has a bent plate, with a hole at each end. Where should I attach the plates? I was thinking of using the large nuts over the bolts that hold the two engine halves together.

    Should I remove the A/C compressor first?

    I read the other thread on pulling the Boxer engine, but Robert used straps, instead of a steel cable.
     
  2. Bob Downing

    Bob Downing Karting

    Nov 7, 2003
    62
    Full Name:
    BobD
    Check my post on 12/29/2003 for a picture of using an engine leveler and chains.
     
  3. robertinOK

    robertinOK Karting

    Dec 5, 2003
    209
    Stillwater, Oklahoma
    Full Name:
    RobertWakeling.com
    I wasn't happy about all that weight (and despite being Alloy, with the trans etc it's bloody heavy....almost tipped my engine hoist over!), and whats more the bolts you mention are not easy to remove. Are you planning on splitting the crank cases anyway? I'm always a little hesitant to star removing bolts incase the seal their holding breaks too.

    The straps work great...just make sure they dont put too much load on the inlet manifolds.

    I did remove all the clutch and transfer cases first, and next time would probably remove the A/C pump too....though it's a pain to get to the 2 locking bolts!

    Be preparred to tilt the engine substantially front down to clear the rear crossmember at the back, removal of the A/C will help. I was sooooo tempted to cut that crossmember out and bolt it back in like the other crossmember a few inches in front of it, that would enable you to remove the engine with all the exhaust manifolds in place....cool idea!

    Robert
     
  4. henryk

    henryk Formula Junior

    Dec 9, 2003
    479
    Door County, WI
    Bob: I see that you used 4 attachment points.......my cable has only two. Having 4 attachment points lowers the amount of weight on each point. I will have to devise a system with 4 points. Where specifically where the attachment points? Thanks

    Robert: Thanks for the info on the tilting of the engine forward.

    In preparation, I removed both alternators........wanted to see how they come out with the engine in.

    I plan on leaving the A/C compressor off........next buyer could put it in, if he feels a need for airconditioning.......I don't.
     
  5. finnerty

    finnerty F1 World Champ

    May 18, 2004
    10,406
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but I used to have a BBi, and as I recall it is possible to drop the engine down through the bottom of the car? I didn't R&R my engine that way because I didn't have a car lift at the time, but I remember thinking about how it could be done. Drop the unit onto a roller dolly under the car and raise the car about 3 feet off the floor I think could work? However you will have to remove almost everything (components) from the block first. I don't know if this would be easier or harder than pulling the unit up from above, but you would definitely eliminate the possibility of damage to the car's body work ---- although I assume you have completely removed the rear bonnet cover? If not, you should....
     
  6. henryk

    henryk Formula Junior

    Dec 9, 2003
    479
    Door County, WI
    finnerty: You are thinking of the testarossa, which I had and was able to drop the engine, with subframe, throught the bottom.

    The Boxer has NO subframe, so the engine must come out the top.
     
  7. Bob Downing

    Bob Downing Karting

    Nov 7, 2003
    62
    Full Name:
    BobD
    Henry: On my Boxer (1983) there were 4 tabs on the top of the motor in each corner at the point where the case met the cylinder head. They were drilled horizontally and pre-tapped. I bolted the chains at that location. If I had to do it again I would use straps like Robert suggested. You can buy them at Home Depot or Harbor freight or probably rent them with the hoist. I figured the engine and trans weighed at least 650lbs, maybe someone knows the exact weight. Better to figure 800lbs rating on the straps. Looking back I doubt using the tabs was the safest thing to do! Summit Racing sells the leveler which was a godsend. Bet of luck, don't get hurt!
     
  8. henryk

    henryk Formula Junior

    Dec 9, 2003
    479
    Door County, WI
    Bob: I see the pre-drilled tabs by cylinders #1 and 12. But I don't see any at the back of the engine.

    After some thought, I decided to to use the straps also. I will be pulling the motor out tomorrow.........a neighbor is helping me.

    I did remove the A/C compressor........should make things easier.

    Thanks again!!!!!!!!
     
  9. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
    BANNED

    Jul 22, 2003
    8,520
    Melbourne
    Full Name:
    Phil Hughes
    I use plastic coated steel cable... about 1/4" 6mm overall diameter. Available from many hardware/fastener stores. Rated to several tons, nice and small to poke through gaps and wrap around heads to lift out.

    Even if you leave the AC comp in the car (which I do), you only have to tip the front down/rear up and a little bit diagonally too... not hard at all. I have done it without assistance numerous times, but of course an extra pair of eyes are handy.
     
  10. henryk

    henryk Formula Junior

    Dec 9, 2003
    479
    Door County, WI
    Engine is out.......thanks for all the help.

    I used two straps, as Robert did, and had the front one more loose than the back one. This allowed the front of the engine to go down........just enough to easily pull the engine out. I forgot about the antifreeze in the engine block. It is now on the floor.

    Now the fun begins!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     

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