Sadly absolutely no idea it’s a very cheap budget code reader that I have so gives no help Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The generic code from the generic reader is immobiliser and damaged key trying to start the car which makes sense as went to show a friend the car and he tried to start it without pressing the immobiliser button on the fob before so those codes maybe not relevant. Will see if the abs light is on tomorrow and if it is I’ll just have to take it somewhere to a specialist as I’m almost out of ideas without any knowledge of which code reader I need to buy
I would look into the acceleration sensors .. the codes point to that .. the front is behind bumper near washer fluid reservoir iirc Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Thanks I’ll take a look is there somthing visable that fails or if there broken is it literally a case of getting a new one?, happy to get a new one if there’s a way to tell it’s defiantly broken. Do these cause the abs fault light and asr light flashing and also now the abs light is on and asr is flashing I can no longer disable the asr with the button (assuming this is because the issue is now more profound that the asr is actually no longer able to function anyway so permanently off)
Sometimes just the connections are loose etc .. i would reseat them Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
I would definitely think twice about throwing the parts cannon at this problem. As I said, not only are the codes not listed in the 360 code list, the warning lights you are seeing are not related to the suspension system. Even in the F430 WSM, there is no mention of accelerometers in the braking system section. The 360 accelerometers are attached directly to the Suspension ECU. Suspension wiring diagram here: https://www.dropbox.com/t/CwCzjviDoYdMJos0 Braking wiring diagram here: https://www.dropbox.com/t/7QyloQqWbIggeGwO Clear the codes, go for another run.
Thanks I’ll give it another go hopefully tomorrow, I did delete the codes but I think as I say the generic codes are actually to do with imobiliser due to my mate trying to start it without pressing the fob but the abs light is still there upon driving, I just need somone to tell me what fault code reader to buy for abs systems on Ferrari somone mentioned they had one earlier in the post but never replied to me asking which model and brand so could really do with knowing to be able to buy one. I still think it’s a wheel speed sensor at fault personally as when I start it it’s fine then as soon as I get moving the abs light comes on
Does anyone know what supply’s the input to the Speedo like is it one of the wheel speed sensors?, abs doesn’t seem to be pulsing the wheels anymore since I inflated the tyre but I’m getting no speed to speedo anymore
If I'm reading the inputs based on the wiring diagram provided by Qavion your R/R wheel speed sensor is providing speedo signal..to ABS>can bus>instrument cluster. I again go back to my opening comments: Scanner giving fault code perspective and live feedback., if No scanner I would start by visual inspection at R/R wheel speed sensor and corresponding pulse wheel, one step further you can measure resistance from your wheel sensors at your ABS module...This will give you the electrical integrity to all four corners. Good Luck.
Thank you so much that’s brilliant I’ve had both front wheels off recently to fit new hill engineering upper ball joints so have checked things over wile in the area but never had the rear wheels off before so will take a look see if anything obvious chaffing or broken wires etc, have read that the scanner sd2 should do it so will get one of those if somone can check the picture below and let me know if I’m looking at the correct ones please, I did notice when driving it from the day I bought it when the speedo did work it was very up and down not consistent with the speed of the car which I did think was abit odd prior to it completely not working at all Image Unavailable, Please Login
No speed readout is a big clue. Note that Ferrari manuals can be contradictory at times, regarding which wheel speed sensor provides vehicle speed data, but start with the RH rear sensor. If it’s none of the rear sensors, I suppose the Brake ECU could be the issue. As earlier suggested, sometimes just resetting a plug fixes a problem. I’m not sure how hard the ECU is to get to on this car. (Frunk RHS?)
Sadly just taken a look at the rear right (uk car if that make any difference) and doesn’t look to be anything obvious at fault, unplugged the sensor plug and had a close look the wires haven’t pulled out the plug or anything. I did notice upon looking through paperwork that 6 months ago it had a used abs pump fitted and a couple of years ago a “used” wheel bearing fitted not sure which corner nor can I understand why anyone would pay £300 for a used bearing when you can get a new one for £500 but I’m assuming it was bought for the speed sensor more than it was bought for the bearing itself so looks to be some kind of underlying problem here which I wasn’t aware of when buying it as he told me he’s never had any problems…
I guess wiring checks are next on the list. e.g. ECU to sensor wiring continuity. You may get some indication of the sensor’s serviceability by doing resistance comparison checks on the sensors themselves (it will depend on the type of sensors and perhaps wheel position). It looks like there are no inline plugs between the ECU and the sensor, so it will be hard to find a break in the wiring if the continuity checks show open circuit. You may have to invest in a wire tracker. Unfortunately, too, the car’s history has added another level of complexity. I’m surprised you’re not getting a check engine light. Usually engine ECUs don’t like it when speed data is missing. Anyway, download the wiring diagrams before the links expire in 5 or 6 days.
Thanks will do, one thing I did do this morning was sort the windscreen seal out as somebody has had the scuttle panel out and when they’ve put it back they’ve put it on top of the seal rather than slide it below so imagine water is running down the back of it rather than on top then down the drains, did get abit of moisture in the storage compartment/frunk and have seen there is a loom for abs that earths somewhere around there so may have to check for corrosion on the earth points incase that’s an issue. But really need to get a scanner, hopefully get chance to drive it tomorrow see if anything has changed as the brake fluid was very very low so topped up for now but haven’t driven it yet or since I deleted the codes I had earlier and also not driven it since I sorted the dodgy brake light switch and a fully charged battery too as the battery only seems to last a few days before dipping to around 11.5 volts
Bit of an update on the situation, so I made sure the battery was 100% charged and correct tyre pressures, deleted fault codes and went for a drive, no speedo at all and abs and asr came on after about 1 minute, breaking the abs was constantly kicking in at low speed or hard braking, went to a friends with a mag tools £1600 scanner and it wouldn’t read the abs side of things still, drove to the shop and same thing again, then went to drive home and the Speedo was working all be it not very well was really shakey was reading the speed roughly but bouncing around for around 2 to 3 minutes then it stopped and as soon as the speedo stopped the abs and asr lights came on instantly.
There are like what? 5 elements to the ABS/ASR system. The ABS/ASR pump in the front of the car and then 4 speed sensors at the hubs. A leonardo or OEM scanner is likely needed to find out if it is the pump or the module in the pump. Have you taken a multimeter and just checked the continuity of the sensor at the connector at each wheel hub? Then perhaps check the resistance of the two prong connector to the wheel hub sensor? If there is 1 that is different that the other three you might be able to pick it up without the formal scanner...
No I’ll try the multi meter next. Any idea of models of scanner I could get? I’ve tried quite a few now that’s all and none will read the abs section or like wheel speed live data. Found one called leonardo but that’s £16,000
Just had a look around in the engine bay and found this sensor with 2 little bits of wire that stick out a tiny bit, doesn’t seem to be a broken other half of the wire hanging down anywhere either it’s in the gap between the exhaust and the air boxes, is this normal?, car is a manual gearbox not auto Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
F1 sensor on the gearbox. Tells the F1 system rotation speed of the crankshaft. See image. (40? i presume?) I'll bet its a bad wheel sensor if the speedo is involved.
Agh item number 40?, seems strange why I have an F1 sensor on my manual gearbox unless they all have that as some kind of dummy sensor, yes fingers crossed it’s a speed sensor as I actually bought a brand new genuine wheel bearing and speed sensor part as somone was selling one on eBay brand new they bought and didn’t need haven’t received it yet but ready if it does turn out to be that
What I currently get, will check speed sensors tomorrow and if all read the same then I’ll bite the bullet and just book it in at specialists Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks for all the advice guys but have read the speed sensors and all seem to be reading around 1400 ohm give or take so given up and going to take it to a specialist to get sorted
Did you measure the resistance at the hubs or at the ECU connector? If you measured the resistance at the ECU connector, at least that would prove the wiring was ok. If you measured the resistance at the hub, the resistance may not give a full picture. I'm not sure of the internal structure, but there may be some kind of sensor gap/clearance issue. Thanks for the resistance value. I'll add it to my wiring diagrams Anyway, please let us know how you go.
Thanks I only did it at the plug for speed sensor, there was 2 tests you can do apparently one for the resistance and one with voltage when you spin the wheel but I couldn’t get a reading so assuming I was doing that wrong I’m not an electrician so wasn’t 100% sure on the correct voltage reading for that
