430 AC compressor failure

There is a company called Polar Bear that does them and has some inventory so you can send the core later. There are local shops that rebuild them as well. NOTE: the quality of each shop's work varies so buyer beware. I learned the hard way. The first rebuild lasted about 1 year, the 2nd was like new. AND a rebuild it in the mid to high 100's.

 

The compressors are $1,150.00 brand new original Ferrari part from Scuderia Car Parts USA.

 

Another option:

847 Lbs at Euro Spares plus shipping / $1,100.00 Original Ferrari Part.

Ferrari Part number: 263174

 

Mine is an F430. I understand it's the same A/C compressor for the 360 but to be sure go to Ricambi and search for the correct part number.

Then ask your mechanic for the part number of the part they quoted you that is 3 times more expensive.

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There was a thread on here weeks ago, someone sourced them real cheap. Try a search on here

 

Sorry for the delayed response, I was traveling. Don't know who did it the first time but pretty sure it wasn't Polar Bear; it was someone the mechanic used. Second time I had sent it to a place in Southern CA. I found Polar Bear about when I shipped it and they both appear to be very viable reputable. I could find the name of the place.

As for new OEM, they weren't available when I was looking a few years ago. They showed the part but no stock to be had. Also, I don't see the difference. I am talking about having it rebuilt so it is still an OEM part.

 

I think what you got on the first proposal is what is called the "Flinch Test". That is when someone asks for an estimate for something, and they seem wealthy, the proposal is sky high. If the person receiving the proposal "Flinches" grabs his heart and passes out, they come up with a much more reasonable offer to fix. Or, they explain they have to change parts that really don't need changing - like the evaporator. Beware. You chose the wrong place. Get a second opinion, and third.

 

I COMPLETELY agree....

I would not give this shop any business unless there was absolutely no other option...and it was burning hot outside like 7 hells...

BRAND new part from Ricambi...$1,912!

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This may be OTT - what's the rationale for replacement of the evaporator? It should be a case of swapping the compressor, replacing the dryer (under the scuttle panel trim), then re-gas & oil.

Is the shop saying the compressor has failed so catastrophically that it has contaminated the entire system?

 

Contamination can be taken care of by evacuating the system with a vacumn.

 

So it's NOT the same unit as for the 360?

 

That will get the moisture out but will not remove any bits of metal from a big failure of the compressor.
In the inlet of the drier there is usually a mesh screen to catch any solids, before it goes through the drier. This leaves the drier beads free to absorb the moisture.
Bit surprised to see they want to swap the evaporator- this is the last thing in the circuit after the compressor.
Any failure of the compressor is going to feed bits of material down the discharge to the condenser in the nose of the car, this gas turns to liquid freon and then goes through the drier- as the drier has a screen filter in its inlet , it will collect this dirt.
If a lot of dirt is going into the drier, there comes a point where the screen becomes blocked and the compressor clutch will disconnect due to the high back pressure.
You now have the situation that the drier is collecting the dirt, but it is protecting the evaporator down stream by not allowing the dirt anywhere near it.
The expansion valve is downline of the drier and is a very small control valve which expands the high pressure liquid freon to a cold gas( like a CO2 fire extinguisher)
For the evaporator to need replacing, it would need the expansion valve to pass this dirt, yet you would need a magnifying glass just to see the hole as they are that small.
I am at a loss to understand why the evap needs changing- ru sure you are not mixing up the evap and condenser.
When the drier starts to block up you would have felt a temperature difference across it, or in extream case icing on the casing. In normal use there is no pressure difference over the drier, but if it is getting blocked you get a P diff and the liquid expands across it, just like it does in the expansion valve.

 

Mike - he said "the 2k on top of that is for the labor because they also have to replace the evaporator and to do that they have to take apart the dash."
so the tech is referring to the evaporator. The reason these crooks always say that they are replacing the evaporator instead of the condenser is because you can inspect and check to see if the condenser is new, but you would have to take the dash back apart to see if they actually replaced the evaporator. Not saying this tech is a crook but they are out there.

 

In 40 years on ships, i have never seen an evaporator swapped or cleaned internally. We used to spray soapy water on the outside to get the grime off.
I cannot see anything getting as far as the evap, unless the drier beads have collapsed, but that would block the inlet to the expansion valve- way to see is to ask to see the drier on the bench and find the inlet- you should be able to blow through it with no resistance. If so then nothing wrong with evap as nothing has travelled from drier to evap.
I hope they have not started taking evap out.

 

Refurbished for $280 and it has been perfect for three years.
It probably just needs new seals. I would never pay $3500 for a replacement.

 

I had a look at the AC drawings and parts list- beyond me why they want to swap the evap.
From the original post the system obviously had enough gas in it, for the compressor clutch to engage- had it not had enough then the low pressure switch ( probably on top of the drier ) would have prevented this.
What pressure was in the system with the engine and compressor off. The test rig gauges would read the same.
What pressure reading were you getting on the suction and discharge with the compressor running- is it running R12 or R134A
Does the system have enough gas to function correctly- not enough gas and you cannot get the discharge pressure high enough to get the chilling effect.
What happens when you put a vacuum on the system, does it maintain the vacuum.
Might want to think about a 2nd opinion

 

Ricambi has a different part number listed for the 360:


180041 A/C COMPRESSOR


also, it is not avialable through them.

 

There are several on eBay, and some say 360 and others say both. Then there are rebuild services. Pretty sure mine is needing a rebuild, so I want to get a new one with a warranty and rebuild the original for a spare. At least they are easy to find, unlike for my 308.