Hi there, in the process of doing the cambelt and a lot of "while I am in there" stuff - I am also doing the ac compressor. In the 3.2 there is a Sanden SD508 mounted. And mine does leak at the shaft seal and at the pipe connection. It was at one time converted to 134a and was - I don't know why - painted grey. Afterburner did already write quite some content on the SD508: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/some-tlc-for-my-qv.482046/page-3 https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/some-tlc-for-my-qv.482046/page-16 And there are also some videos on youtube which help to understand how the compressor is constructed: And also there is some written content available: https://www.sanden.com/productlibrary/manuals/SD_Service_Guide_Rev_2.pdf https://www.erareplicas.com/gtman/ac/sanden.pdf I guess the disassembly is quite straight forward. You need some snap ring pliers and a big enough puller for the belt pulley. First is the clutch plate with a nut and then pry it out with a flat screw driver as shown in the video that is not very professional looking. Basically pry against the shaft and the clutch raises step by step. Then some snap rings out and then pull the belt pulley with a puller. Then another snap ring and the coil comes out. This is where I am at right now. I will post some pics and share some infos as I get along. I already ordered the spare parts by Santech. It's MT2043 and MT2143. You might also need the tool MT4024 for positioning the shaft seal. What I am still unsure of is the initial oil filling with the PAG100 AC oil. The whole system seems to have a capacity of 175cc including compressor, condenser, dryer and pipes. For measuring the right amount you use a dipstick. Afterburner already calculated something, but his compressor is mounted tilted to the left in his 3.0, while the original position is tilted to the right. As no oil will remain in the compressor with the rebuilt, the amount of oil that goes in the conpressor is unclear. Maybe 75cc as some VW sources indicate? http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/campingart/vanagon/vwretrofit.pdf So here are various pictures... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
It looks to me as if your compressor was fitted with a incorrect 90° rotation to the left Image Unavailable, Please Login
Check the filler plug position, straight at the top: Image Unavailable, Please Login I think my dipstick measurements are correct...
There is definitely a difference... The pictures I found so far actually pointed out the orientation that I have. Also the parts diagram shows an orientation that is tilted to the right. Maybe the drawing in the workshop manual is not accurate? I also have the fittings shown in the parts diagram and not the curved ones that you have. Either way - The oil filling has to be adjusted to the tilting and it probably does nor matter if it's tilted to the left or to the right as longg as you add enough oil for the angle. Just out of curiosity: Whats the amount you added with the 8-10 increments? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes your drawing form the parts manual show your angle with the filler towards the rear of the car. My reference was the 3.2L engine where the plug (in red) is clearly towards the front of the car: Image Unavailable, Please Login That's how I measured the angle and deduces the oil quantity. It's only correct with the compressor mounted the same way. Also, you're right it doesn't matter whether the angle is CW or CCW - as long as you start from 0° at the top. From a Sanden doc: Image Unavailable, Please Login Your compressor, compared to mine, is tilted 90° to the back of the car, resulting in a filler plug position of 60° to the vertical. Your filling quantity should therefore be 9-12 increments. How much that is in fl-oz or ml I can't tell you. As it is a non-linear filling curve due to the barrel shape it's impossible to extrapolate from other filling increments. From the Sanden documentation we know that the compressor needs 175cc. If you don't replace the driver (which I would replace since the system is empty) that's probably what you need. With a new dryer and gas, you likely need to add oil to get the correct level. Image Unavailable, Please Login Hope this help! Cheers, Urs
Hi Urs, your posts are always useful! Just first about the angle... I assume you have that drawing from the 308/328 workshop manual where one can find that drawing on page 77. There you can see the compressor tilted to the front of the car. BUT take a look at the 3.2 Mondial owner's manual at page 72. I know the copy is lacking contrast, but you can clearly see that here the compressor, like I have it, is tilted to the back of the car. I assume that there is somewhat of a difference between the 328 and the Mondial when it comes to the mounting angle of the SD508. Yes, I will follow the procedure of the measurement in that Sanden manual with the dip stick. But have a look at that VW document. There they differentiate the components in their need for the oil. The compressor itself is rated at 75cc. Cheers! Mondial 3.2 owner's manual from 1986: Image Unavailable, Please Login
I recently had my Sanden 508 compressor rebuilt and the rebuilder told me to add 6 or 7 ounces of mineral oil (if using R-12 or pag oil if using 134) - I can't vouch for this as I have not yet re-installed the compressor or had it working but this advice came from a reputable rebuilder. For reference, 6 ounces is 177cc...
Progress is being made. The compressor is completely disassembled. I am waiting for the new valve plate to arrive. The old seals were sticking to it so hard I could not remove it without damaging the surface and potentially create a leak in the future
Hi guys, after confirming that the correct mounting position at the 3.2 is tilted to the back of the car - I could finalize the rebuild... ;-) I bought a new valve plate as the gasket on the old one was glued on to the plate and I could not remove it without destroying it. For the installation of the shaft seal you need a special tool: Santech MT4024. I don't need mine anymore - So if someone needs it... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thats no fair. You didn't show installing the pistons. I was wondering how many fingers and magic tools it was going to take.
Actually it is pretty easy. You just put the assembly on the cylinders and the you move your way around with a screwdriver. No fingers involved. Just lube the pistons and cylinders a bit and then push the pistons in one after another from the back with the screwdriver.
No, you just press the pistons in with a small amount of force. The cylinders are a little bit wider at the top so the pistons will level themselves. The piston rings push themselves together through the wider top. Difficult to explain... Image Unavailable, Please Login
One question that I thought I would have already answered, but now makes me think again is the correct PAG-Oil for the compressor. Recommended is Sanden SP-20 which was superseeded by the SP-15. According to this site the SP-20 is PAG 100 and the SP-15 is PAG 80. https://www.sanden.com/oilspecs.html I don't have access to the original Sanden oils here in Germany. So the question would be: Do I take a PAG 100 oil or the next lower, a PAG 68 oil?!
Well yes... SP-20 was already substituted like 10 or so years ago and the SP-15 is not really available in Europe. Because you can mix the PAG-Oils I might mix PAG 68 with 100 to get to 80.
I know you're doing this yourself, and I respect that but there's a place called polar air in Fort Lauderdale that will sell you a new compressor properly outfitted with the correct connectors for about $500, I have the contact information for the girl there if you need it
Hmm, well... Thanks. Buying a new compressor is just half the fun. I could always buy anything new, but that's not the original then. Besides I trust the 80ies quality control more than those Chinese knock offs.
I am putting the compressor now back to the car. Any ideas on where the o-rings have to be placed to connect to the ac fittings/lines? On the first step or on the second step? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here are some pics of when I pulled mine apart. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login What you’ve marked is the adapter. Have you replaced the o ring on the compressor side?
Well then that's what I meant... The adapter to the fittings. Is there an o-ring and where? No, I did not change the seals directly at the compressor.
I didn’t take a pic but i matched the o ring to the end of the high and low pressure hose then connected to the adapter fitting like in your pic. But i would be unwinding both those fittings first and replacing those o rings as in my pic
