ac compressor removal during belt change

Kim,

You are correct in your thought process. The removal of the three, or four studs below and to the left of the AC compressor will enable you to swing the unit out of the way, without disconnecting the AC lines. I simply double-nut them..and they come up very easily. In addition, you can protect the fuel tank from scratches with a couple of soft towels.

Regarding the cloth covered fuel line, routed between the two AC lines; this a return line and can be disconnected, without fear of fuel leaks, or pressure related problems. It's probably not a bad idea to carefully inspect and likely replace this line, as it was the subject of a fire-related recall on the 328's and possibly on some the late308 QV's, as well.

If your intentions are to rebuild the waterpump, as part of your major service, pull the water pump first. This will give you a bit more clearance when you swing the AC compressor rearward.

Regards,
David

 

Kim, is it possible for you to take some pics during the process or at least the three studs that's holding the AC,

and maybe a pic of the old t-belt? How many miles on the belt? Thanks.

 

I'm contemplating removing my A/C as well - can't you just unbolt the unit from the bottom of the L-shaped bracket, or do you have to completely remove the bracket attached to the Belt cover?

 

You have to remove both brackets to get it to swing out of the way. You'll need some knuckle joints to get a socket onto those nuts under the housing. Have fun.

 

I am having trouble getting at the 2 large nuts under the top AC compressor cover on the forward bank. are there any tricks to removing these. i did a search but only found this thread to be of any relevance, unless there is another thread with pics.

 

This marking (through the oil filler cap) is a little difficult to spot, especially if you are shining a light in there the reflection may make you miss it. I often find it easier to "feel" it with my finger nail, than see it.

However, more than likely, you need to turn the engine over again to PM1-4, as you could be at BDC and not TDC.

In theory, you can lock the cams where they are now, but if something should loosen up, it's best to have all the marks visible so you know where you need to restart.

I sometimes think about acquiring a second hand forward cam cover, and opening up a view port and make a cap or cover of some sort, so I can view the forward cam marks without pulling the cover.

Phil

 

As a side note I replaced all of my studs with bolts when I did my 1st belt change. I did this on the belt covers as well as the AC unit but I did a retro fit of a Sanden compressor . Now everything just falls down when I do the change . Also use anti-seize on the bolts.

 

This process is reasonably well illustrated and described on my timing belt change tutorial:

http://www.birdmanferrari.com/service/timing_belt/timing_belt_procedure.htm

Birdman

 

thanks birdman - so the studs at the top of the compressor pull out - i thought that was the way - i just wanted to be sure. i will try that.

 

I finally removed the A/C compressor – what a ball breaker.! I removed all the studs holding the compressor brackets and tensioner that go thru the timing belt cover.
Question: do I need to put any of those studs back?? I do not plan on re-installing the compressor. The reason I ask, is that the shaft on the long studs are coated with oil, but no oil is dripping out of where the studs went in.
I should also cap off the lines going to the compressor – does anyone have a suggestion on how to cap off the lines – ie: what to use and what size?
Thanks folks