360 Adding extra ground strap from ECU’s to engine block to eradicate electrical gremlins?

@collegeboy did it and did a great job on his 360

 

Jay

This will get you started
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Yep! Up above. It certainly cannot hurt. Even an official Ferrari dealership told me they now do this on all 360/CS cars that come in.

 

I was just thinking about this and voila, a thread about this.

I’d love photos if anyone can provide them.

 

Can't remember if it was 16g, but something small, and two of them together with new heat shrink eyelets, then the wires themselves in sleeving so it looked professional.

 

Grounded both heads and block.
That was 10years ago - never had an electrical issue.
Agree, it's anecdotal, but there is no downside.

 

Photos would be incredible in this thread if possible.

 

I could see one of the 4 mounts on the ecu and 1 of the two mounts for the fuel rail. Both are 6mm bolt so a eyelet for that size and some quality 14g or 16g black wire would be fine

 

I second this

 

I did this myself yesterday so thought I’d provide the thing I’ve been asking for.

Couple of things:

-I used 10g wire

-connected at the frame, touching and grounding to the same place each bank ECU grounds to

-then I went to the nearest fuel rail mount bolt. I had seen this mentioned above so I went that route, but…

-I don’t know if I love this location. I used a ring connected but cut it open to make it a spade since I really didn’t want to risk taking the bolt all the way out and somehow messing with an injector seal etc.

-So I prepped the connector and loosened just enough, and quickly, to slide the “spade” connector under and then quickly retighten. No idea if this made any difference but that was my logic

-The worry would be the sealing issue but also torque applied to the bolt with this soft metal connector now under it. May look for another place in the future to ground on the engine side

Now, the reason I wanted to do this is because I have been chasing 2 issues I have assumed is electrical/ground related:

-on most first starts of the day I get a P0116 code for temp sensor plausibility. I have swapped a new sensor, new cap, full coolant flush from a trusted Indy and still have the issue.

Also, it’s only on the first start of the day, after about 3 mins of running. I clear it, it never comes back the rest of the day

-Then, almost every first start of the day I get a rough start as mentioned by the OP above. Almost like it runs on one bank for the first 10 secs or so then the other bank comes on.

So between these 2 anomalies both happening at first start and never returning again, and the common mention of these cars having grounding issues as they moved to their first aluminum chassis, I decided to go to this grounding solution mentioned above.


And……well, first start today, fired right up on all cylinders. No P0116 code. I haven’t driven it in roughly the last 50ish times without at least one of those issues and don’t think I’ve ever had it start the first time with having neither rear their head, since I bought it a year ago.

Sample size of one day. I will update as I go but it would be a hell of a placebo to do that last night and wake up today having neither issue.

uploading on my phone so can’t see if the photos are above or below the text here, but the photos just show where I mounted. Happy to elaborate more if needed.



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Thanks for sharing!

 

Hmm I’d like to hear more on that as well. My logic was “this is where the ECU grounds itself”, but also isn’t the ECU mounted on rubber? It would be odd to need to ground the case when that’s the purpose of the ECU’s ground wire. But open to being wrong and redoing it.

I have left the sides covering the ECU’s off for now and will leave them off until I hear more.

 

Only on 2 total drives since I added them and both had no cold start issue or the CEL. Still very small sample but will update as I go.