Gerrit, THis is VERY useful info. I suspected that the booster rod was threaded and I probably need to adjust it. The thing is, I replaced my OEM MC with another w/ supposedly the same spec, so I'm not sure why I would need to adjust. One thing's for sure--my brake pedal bottoms out, but I have all air out of the system, so it HAS to be booster/master cylinder related. Now, what criteria is used to adjust it? I had a look at that page (H10) and it discusses brake pedal free play adjustment (pedal tie rod), but doesn't go into any detail involving the booster push rod. Are they independent adjustments? Can you shed any further light on how to do this? I'd rather not fiddle w/ my brake pedal settings; I'm sure they're fine. Thanks, Hopefully I'm getting closer to a solution.. Greg
Glad the air is gone. There may well be an issue related to the different sizes of the MC. Somewhere I recall reading that different IDs of the MC effects travel and pressures.
Hi Greg There is one adjustment that is not shown. Between the MC piston and the pin there is also clearance adjustment. They don't provide a spec for that unfortunately. (Ferrari expect you to replace the booster and MC as a preassembled unit.) When I checked that gap on my setup, there was almost .25" gap. This translates to a lot of pedal travel with not enough MC piston travel for effective pressure. I measured the protusion of the pin from the booster housing and the distance from mounting face of MC to piston end. I then adjusted the pin to have a slight air gap instead of .25". I don't think the actual setting is critical, just that it not be a large gap and that it not pre-load the piston. (This is my opinion, it might not be the right thing!) Of course the other travel and gap (as shown in H10) should be set first to avoid preloading the booster as well. One other thing to measure since you will have access to both MC's. Measure from mounting face of MC to piston face (where the rod pushes against piston end). This should be the same on both, if not then it explains a lot of your current situation (after all the air pocket issues). Gerrit
If you are compressing a column of fluid the pressure achieved should be a function of the diameter of the bore of the fluid container as well as the compression distance. With a larger diameter bore the travel or stroke required to achieve the same pressure would be increased. Therefore, consider that you are using a MC with a larger diameter bore. This would require a longer piston stroke to achieve the same force exerted on the fliud i.e a longer brake travel.
Gerrit, Two things- 1) How do I set rod length? By twisting, because it's threaded? 2) Because the rod telescopes, are you measuring from the "in" position, from booster mount face to end of rod tip? If memory serves, the rod tip was flush w/ booster mount surface. I'll have to check again. The rod tip needs to almost, but not quite, be touching the inside "end" of the MC piston? If both MCs (old and new) have the same measurement from MC mount flange to piston end, then I shouldn't need to adjust the booster rod, right? Doc Mark, Interesting--shouldn't a larger bore MC yield more pressure @ the same stroke? That's the whole purpose of it, right? Are you saying that the larger bore MC requires a longer stroke to be functional? Thanks guys.... Greg
Hi Greg On my (modified) booster the rod is threaded. So it is adjustable. And my guess is that the rod end should be very close to touching the piston end. While you are correct that nothing should need to be adjusted with the replacement MC, something is obviously not correct with the replacement fit. Thus the need to verify those measurements. Making the measurement is a bit challenging, you need to make a sketch of the relationship of the bits, then devise how to measure the gap wioth the MC separated from the booster. Not a huge challenge, just a small puzzle for a Saturday afternoon. I can't speak for the other topic of more travel due to increased piston size. But I have read that elsewhere on Fchat. Gerrit
Gerrit, So your booster is not the OEM one? Does the booster rod telescope on yours? I figure I can insert a screwdriver into each MC piston and mark where the mount flange is. That'll give me piston depth at rest. Then I'll push it fully in and measure that too. My guess is that they're the same. If they are, then I have no idea what next to do.... I can measure the booster rod protusion beyond the mount face--I can then calculate the clearance to end of MC piston. Re: MC bore size, I was under the impression that a larger bore MC would give me a harder brake pedal with same piston stroke. Seems logical--same stroke moves more fluid... Because of my large Wilwood calipers my brake pedal was going a bit too deep with the OEM MC. Thanks, Greg
While a larger diameter bore would move more fluid at equal pressure, it would take more force i.e. piston travel to achieve the increased force (pressure equal to the that created by the smaller bore MC) since it is acting on a larger surface area. As a retired psychiatrist, perhaps you need to ask the brakes why they are being resistant to change and to the resolution of their " issues."
LOL! Good one--I'd like to know what my 308 is thinking--would answer many questions! Thanks Doc, Greg
OK, I just pulled the new MC off again. It compares EXACTLY with the old one--same piston end depth and stroke length. I see no way to alter it. The booster rod appears to be set perfectly. It's about 1/8" below the booster mount surface, coincinding perfectly w/ the MC piston end depth. It's travel also matches the MC piston travel. So, now what? I guess my long pedal means I still have air in the system. Totally baffling, because I bled all bubbles out yesterday.. I'll put the original one back and see what happens... Puzzled, Greg
First, you have the patience of Job. If demonic possession has been ruled out, what if you removed the line from the caliper ( 1 at a time)- better yet both the flex line and caliper -and tightly capped the hard line to that caliper . Press on brake and see what the pedal does. Do this 1 at a time. It might isolate/or rule out the calipers and flex lines as an issue.
Doc, Good idea--I'm thinking of ways to isolate components to pinpoint the problem. Somebody mentioned a possible airlock. I guess at this point anything is possible.. And yes, I have learned new depths of patience. I have no choice--the car can't be driven until I resolve this. I could have it towed somewhere, but that feels like "giving up" to me! I'm into week 3 of this ordeal now! Thanks, Greg
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's always the simple, obvious solution..... My frickin' Wilwoods each have 2 bleed screws--inner and outer! I simply missed the inner ones all this time! Bled 'em out, and all is good.................. So sorry for all the wasted bandwidth and time.... .........why didn't any of you geniuses tell me Wilwood Superlights have 2 bleed screws???!!! Many thanks to all, Greg
It is always the simple things alright. I didnt know about the Wilwood calipers having 2 bleed screws mate. HOW could you have not seen them after all the time spent around the calipers bleeding them? Glad to hear you finally had a win. Get out there and drive the wheels off it now Greg.
Pap, I know, it's crazy... The inner bleed screws are hidden on the rear of the calipers, behind a ridge of sorts... I had the front wheels turned today, took a look back there and saw them. Checked the rears, and they also had the inner ones. I'm such an idiot>>>>!! Let this be a lesson: "Know Thy Calipers"! Greg
It's never painless gaining "experience" And what about the change? Does the 25mm diameter MC make a noticeable difference in the pedal stroke needed to engage?
speaking plainly here : if you don't know that your four pot calipers have bleed nipples on both sides , you really don't know enough about working on brakes to be doing it yourself. its dangerous. no offense , but brakes are no. 1 on my list of stuff that must work.
Pistole, I knew somebody would chime in here and judge.. Look, I understand the risks in working on braking systems--I was not going to operate the car until the problem was solved. I've done PLENTY on my car myself, and I'm proud of that. This one little mystery has been solved, and I think we've all learned from it.. Nobody, including you, was born with all knowledge. We learn as we go. I've learned PLENTY in the 2 years I've had my 308--it's been great! At least I'm man enough to admit my oversight--some might just abandon the thread, or make up a lie to cover their a**!! I know you mentioned the possibility of 2 bleed screws earlier-- I wish I would have read closer.. Hey, we all learn new things by hands-on, right? Pap and Steve--the brakes work GREAT now.. The pedal stroke now feels stock with the 25mm master cylinder. Exactly what I was going after. All the pain was worth it! Life is good...
sorry , greg , pls don't take in the wrong way. when I started out messing DIY , I installed my brake pads the wrong way round , ie , metal towards disc. Then I wondered what the hell was the noise .... my mechanic laughed so hard that he almost fell into the drain in front of his shop. just be careful with brakes. cheers. .
Greg, Congratulations in solving the mistery. I have been working on cars for over 30 years, and didn't even thing about the possibility of 2 bleed screws on the caliper. Don't feel bad about an honest mistake, it happens to the best of us. The most important thing is that you knew to work on the problem until solved, no matter how long it took. Once again, congratulations. Milton
Thanks Pistole...it's all good.. Milton, Thanks, I knew I would eventually solve the mystery--there HAD to be reason why I had a long pedal. I checked everything out, many times, so I knew the answer would soon follow.. I've learned alot from this episode, and I'm better for it. However, I am truly sorry for wasting people's time on my problem. Maybe somebody someday will see this thread and gain something from it... Again, thanks for all the input, Greg
Sorry I just didn't think to ask earlier when we were talking. Chalk it up to 'Experience' which is what you get when things don't go the way you think they should have... We've all been there, & will always remember the lessons learned that way. Once spent over a year off & on chasing a problem with an Rx7 TurboII ECU when I pioneered dropping a TII engine into a 1st gen GXL. Long story & I fixed it by installing an extra ground bolt for the ECU just to shut up a buddy who insisted it needed it even tho we'd just ohmed out 18 ground wires in the ECU harness! I'd designed computer power systems, where you learn early to never trust chassis ground. Again, a case of wrong assumption. ;*) I'm just used to 4-piston calipers having 2 bleed screws. Some of them even have upper & lower bleed screws on each side & since you'd been running the calipers for almost a year, assumed you knew the all the tricks of bleeding them. Interesting that you didn't run into this when you first installed the Wildwoods tho. But then I've never run into a MC with a trapped air bubble problem either.
Greg, I got your message. Sorry I did not get back to you. Soccer games, football, dinner guests....I just sat down. But I see you got it yourself.