air conditioning - circa 1968 | FerrariChat

air conditioning - circa 1968

Discussion in 'Vintage (thru 365 GTC4)' started by Bryanp, May 3, 2004.

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  1. Bryanp

    Bryanp F1 Rookie

    Aug 13, 2002
    3,799
    Santa Fe, NM
    I've been avoiding it for years, but it is time I got my AC working in the queen mother so that at least my right knee stays cool. The PO had run it w/ no oil in the compressor . . .

    So I have a new compressor but don't know anything about the relative health of the rest of the system. I know, at a minimum, I need to get a new dryer.

    I have a lot of questions - Is the legal freon replacement, R134a, the only alternative?
    If I go with R134a, does the expansion valve need to be replaced before the system is re-charged and pressurized?
    Do all the seals in the system need to be changed out if the last cooling agent was freon?
    I have read that R134a is hard on compressors because it requires higher pressure, and that some folks swear by someting called Duracool. Is the part about the compressors true? Is Duracool the panacea or just snake-oil?

    Does the group have any other advice/suggestions re: getting a defunct AC system running again? I understand that these systems in 1960s Ferraris are not very good even when they are running properly - that there is inadequate cfm. I'll address that problem another day - for now I just need to get some cool air blowing since we're on the verge of our mid-atlantic/VietNam weather.

    thanks in advance
    I'm posting this in Tech as well
     
  2. Napolis

    Napolis Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Oct 23, 2002
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    Jim Glickenhaus
    Brian
    There's good news and bad news. The good news is that you can have cold ac in vintage F cars. The bad news is that to get it you must sh it can the original systems and replace EVERYTHING except the ducts. The best systems to use IMHO are found at places like Summit that are used in street rods. This won't work at the Concors but it will keep you cold and these systems can be installed in a very sanitary way. Sal installed one in my MK-IV that the Judges at Pebble didn't comment on.
    Best.
     
  3. Smiles

    Smiles F1 World Champ
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    Nov 20, 2003
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    Matt F
    Bryan,

    I hope that someone posts some helpful info on your question. I'd like to get my air conditioning working better on my 330.

    You can still get freon that's been reclaimed. At some point, though, I think it makes sense to convert to R-134a. You already seem to know more about it than I do.

    I certainly hope that someone helps you out here.

    --Matt
     
  4. Bob Zambelli

    Bob Zambelli F1 Rookie
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    Nov 3, 2003
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    Hate to throw in a counterpoint but the ORIGINAL A/C in my 330 works perfectly. It's always comfortably cool. I've had the car since 1975 and I opened the system up once, when I serviced the radiator. I then fabricated some special backets that allow radiator removal without opening the A/C. Even the belts and hoses are original (160,000 miles). The only service I do is a "charge" once a year. I use the regular Freon that K-mart used to sell before we were all "saved" from the evils of the stuff.
    If yours is the same as mine, it will have a two-cylinder York compressor, same as used in mid-sixties U.S. luxury cars. The compressor has an oil sump.
    Any shop familiar with the older systems should be able to service it. Keep in mind that the more modern systems employ Schrader automatic (one-way) valves while our oldies use Dill vales. They must be manually opened and have left-hand threads.
    Don't get discouraged - you should be able to properly set yours up.
    Bob Z.
     
  5. Smiles

    Smiles F1 World Champ
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    Thank you, Bob, for the excellent (and encouraging) post!
     
  6. Texas Forever

    Texas Forever Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    Apr 28, 2003
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    Texas!
    Napolis, I have also heard that you may need to update your alternator to pump more juice. Plus, I have also heard also installing new in-line fans to give more push. Any thoughts.

    Thx
     
  7. Bob Zambelli

    Bob Zambelli F1 Rookie
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    DRIVE YOU CAR - DON'T MAKE LOVE TO IT - well said.

    Dr Tax - you're right on both counts. Here's what I did on my GTC:
    I replaced the original Lucas fans (they wouldn't blow out a candle) with two junkyard fans from a FIAT 124. Never overheats - never goes above 195F.
    When driving at night in the rain with the A/C on, the original (Lucas) aternator would not keep up with the car's power requirements. I replaced it with a $50.00/55 amp single wire alternator/built-in regulator from JC Whitney. It took one evening to fabricate the bracketry and I was in business. I did that in 1990 and all I've done since is replace the drive belt.
    [I have been criticized for using non-original parts. Most criticizm has come from people who worship thier cars and do not drive them. The Ferrari is a drivers car - period. It's meant to be driven and mine is. The only thing I will not expose ot to is salt and downtown parking garages. In fact, I tend to keep it away from city traffic - much more fun on the open road!!]
    I do plan on rebuilding the engine when it gets to 200,000 miles.

    Bryanp - I don't know where you live but if you're near me in S/E PA, bring the car over and we'll check out the A/C. I still have the equipment.

    Bob Z
     
  8. Napolis

    Napolis Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Oct 23, 2002
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    The trick I've found is amps at idle. To get more also over speed the alt. with a larger pulley. There are a lot of fine small alt.'s with very HO .
     
  9. ArtS

    ArtS F1 Veteran
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    Nov 11, 2003
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    Central NJ
    Bob Z.,

    You mention that you are in SE PA. Is your GTC a custom yellow with a bit of a greenish hue to it? If so I think I met you at the New Hope auto show a few years ago.

    Regards,

    Art S.
     
  10. Bob Zambelli

    Bob Zambelli F1 Rookie
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    Hi, Art!!
    Yep - that was me - probably judging. The yellow is actually a GM color - 1975 Corvette bright yellow. Believe it or not, I matched it perfectly from the yellow on the horn button.
    Bob Z
     
  11. Bob Zambelli

    Bob Zambelli F1 Rookie
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    By the way, the alternator is #ZX146048X, $69.95 from JC Whitney.
    Now rated 60 amps. 80 amp version is $10.00 more.

    Bob Z
     
  12. Bryanp

    Bryanp F1 Rookie

    Aug 13, 2002
    3,799
    Santa Fe, NM
    Well, at least I'm headed in the right direction. I have aftermarket fans and have gone to a single-wire/internal-regulator alternator. (sshh, don't tell anyone)

    Based on your input and the info I got from the link DrTax put on the Tech thread, I think I will have the system vacuumed, pressurized and charged w/ reclaimed R-12. I'm hoping that when the old compressor seized and smashed its insides to bits, that the dryer caught any junk the compressor may have released into the system and didn't get to the expansion valve.

    If it turns out that the mangled old compressor did pollute/damage other pieces of the system or the system just won't hold a charge, I will look at a more wholistic solution that would include a condenser separated from the radiator, R-134a, new lines, new expansion valve, uprated AC fans in the dash, etc.

    Bob, thank you for your generous offer - where in SE PA are you? I'm in Arlington, VA. I have contacted the guys at my local hot rod shop whose work I respect who also take care of the AC on some classic Mustangs and the like. If they can't/won't do it, I''l contact you.

    thanks all!
     
  13. Bob Zambelli

    Bob Zambelli F1 Rookie
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    Bob, thank you for your generous offer - where in SE PA are you? I'm in Arlington, VA. I have contacted the guys at my local hot rod shop whose work I respect who also take care of the AC on some classic Mustangs and the like. If they can't/won't do it, I''l contact you.

    Hi, Bryan - I live north of Philadelphia, near Lansdale.
    Good move, updating your cooling fans and alternator. Did your car have one or two alternators?
    I seriously doubt that the compressor put any "shrapnel" in the system, although anything's possible.
    Your idea of modernizing the system makes perfect sense. I know people who have converted to the new, non-controlled refrigerant, with excellent results - HOWEVER, I have been warned not to do this with our old (piston-type) compressors, as there is some sort of lubrication incompatability. If I ever update mine, I will change just the compressor and reciever/dryer - the rest stays as it seems to be in perfect shape.
    As I stated before, any competent shop will have no problem servicing your system - just remember the Dill valves - many technicians have never seen them.
    Bob Z
     
  14. Bryanp

    Bryanp F1 Rookie

    Aug 13, 2002
    3,799
    Santa Fe, NM
    My car is a very early euro Queen, so one alternator.

    I actually cut-and-pasted your sentence about the Schrader vs. Dill valves when I emailed the owner of the shop yesterday!

    I'll let you know how it goes. Unless my wife is in labor, I will be at the Reading Concours on the 16th. Will you be there?

    Bryan
     
  15. Horsefly

    Horsefly F1 Veteran

    May 14, 2002
    6,929
    James, wouldn't the alternator have to have a SMALLER than factory pulley in order to make it turn faster? Or retain the same alternator pulley, but switch to a larger drive pulley? (all in the interest of increasing the drive ratio and therefore increase the alternator RPM).
     
  16. Napolis

    Napolis Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Oct 23, 2002
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    Jim Glickenhaus
    Yes I meant a larger drive pulley. This also works with water pumps as well and helps with engine cooling at idle. Have you ever tried this with your cars?
     
  17. Horsefly

    Horsefly F1 Veteran

    May 14, 2002
    6,929
    James, you're assuming that my cars actually run. Project cars don't run!!!
    But after I had the 301 engine rebuilt in my old '79 Pontiac, I noticed that the temperature gauge was running a little higher. So I installed a new 3 row radiator core and switched to a 160 degree thermostat. That helped cool things back down. If I ever actually get any of my projects running, I was planning to install an external oil cooling radiator on my '66 Corvette and switching to one of the repro radiator cores that have 4 rows. Of course why stop there. Add an external transmission cooler. I never really understood the philosophy of those whimpy transmission coolers that are integral with the regular cooling radiator. Seems to me, that just insures that your transmission is cooking at the same temperature as the engine coolant! At least my 95 GMC truck has an auxiliary trans cooler.
     

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