360 Air conditioning not blowing cold 1 year after compressor rebuild

Sometimes the shrader valves leak...they are the part that we attach the gages to and refill the freon. Could be just needs a new little shrader...looks like a bicycle valve...and a refill. HTH

 

No, that's the TGK hot water valve.

The Schrader valves are inside the fill points:

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Schrader valves let air in when you are regassing the system, but are not supposed to let air out unless you push the needle in the centre. Never filled up a bicycle or car tire?

Of course, you can't replace these yourself unless you can extract the refrigerant beforehand with professional equipment.

There may be other reasons for your no cooling. Do you know if your compressor is working? Can you hear your compressor come online?

 

With no freon, the compressor won't come on right?
Thanks for helping clarify the shraders!!

 

Correct. There are pressure sensor switches just to the right of the fill points shown in the photo above.

For faultfinding purposes, you can momentarily jumper the compressor relay and/or the pressure switches. There are a few message threads on the forum on how to do this.

Have you checked the fuses? Are you getting heat with the engine warmed up?

 

To see if the relay itself is ok, swap it with the reverse light relay.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/147938729/

 

Understood. The average person won't have the equipment to replace the valves. If there is fluorescent dye already in the system, your mechanic may be able to see if the valves are leaking.

I would just check the appropriate fuses behind the driver if you have an ohmmeter or swap or replace fuses and relays if you haven't: Fuses may look visually ok, but may not be ok electrically. Swap the compressor fuse with the reverse gear relay and if that doesn't work and you're getting no heat, replace the water recirc pump fuse. The water recirc pump fuse supplies coil power to the AC compressor relay. As mentioned above, you can also swap the compressor relay.

You'll have to use your Driver's Handbook to find the relays and fuse locations. I can't give you fuse/relay numbers because different cars have different numbers (despite the relays being in the same location).

 

To see if the valves are leaking, take the plastic cap off and fit a short length of clear plastic hose over the threads, dump the end in a jar of tap water and see if any bubbles.

 

Check the compressor clutch is getting power to engage the clutch

 

After the compressor overhaul, didn't the shop check the high and low side pressures after the re-gas? The pressures should give you some idea of performance of the expansion valve.

Yes, expansion valves can put stress on the compressors.

https://www.techtips.ie/Nissens/ac-troubleshooting---expansion-valve-malfunction.pdf

I would get the shop to make sure the pressures and temperatures are ok after the compressor rebuild. I don't know if the expansion valve can be checked on the bench (at least that way it would save you on regassing if the pressures weren't ok).

Located on the right hand side of the evaporator unit (in the passenger footwell). It doesn't look too difficult to get to on the 360.

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P/N 63960100 ?

Experts?

 

The clutch has an electro magnetic coil to pull it into engagement with the compressor- sounds like the clutch coil is burnt out causing a short, which will blow the fuse.

Take the clutch off the compressor, you should be able to do in situ. I believe you can get a clutch kit on e bay.

Not sure why they are saying expansion valve and condenser should have been done as the drier would have caught an scrap from the old compressor. Regardless that is not going to blow a fuse

 

If the expansion valve is restricted, it will cause the hp safety switch to operate and cut the compressor out- not known one to blow a fuse

 

Looking at a clutch coil on e bay it is just a circular coil with the power plug. If u put an ohm meter to the coil connections you should get an ohms resistance reading. If no reading try each wire to earth, i think 1 wire will give earth reading and the other should not i think
Looks like you can buy the coil or the complete clutch with the coil fitted

 

Looking at photos and the parts manual, it only looks like you have to remove a small cover and some pipes on the expansion valve. It should be easy to see by sticking your head under the dash on the passenger side. This underside photo of the evaporator unit should give you some idea.

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I've heard that the fan controller can be removed relatively easily (just a few screws). The expansion valve is even closer to the passenger seat. Of course, you will have to have the refrigerant evacuated.

 

Is this guy for real about this coil burning ? Has he measured the coil resistance and resistance to earth. Expansion valve blocking is so unusual i have never seen it . This would cause the compressor clutch to drop out due to high pressure but i am far from convinced. Go to local store and get a coil of wire plus an inline car fuse holder with the same fuse rating as the car fuse for AC compressor- with engine off connect to the power plug on ac clutch and see if clutch works or blows the fuse. If you can already see burning on the clutch coil it is well suspect as buggered which would blow the fuse