Hi, My aircond system and temperature settings and fan speeds all work really well. Admittedly this took some work and modifications to achieve. My simple question is: Why when I sit in idle does the aircond temp increase in the cabin after only 1 minute (can get quite hot) of idling. If this is standard, fair enough, but is it?
Is your fan on the AirCon radiator working? The one behind the single vent in the bumper spoiler. Maybe you are seeing the full function of the A/C with only the air moving across the radiator when you are moving?
+1. The ac fan uses alot of draw. Check your fuse box for china syndrome. It is one of the vertical plugs. I believe the dark green wire is the one for the ac fan (if you find that your fan is not working). Steve will chime in with the exact location of plug. He is the man when it comes to electrical and wire locations. R
Actually I think it is the brown wire out of the "K" connector. At least that is the one I by-passed on my fuse panel - but that may be the compressor switch, interior fan, etc. China Syndrome - Check!
That makes perfec sense, amazing what you forget. Thank you I will check it tonight. It should be on (the radiator fan) all the time shouldn't it?
Thank you everyone, the condensor fan is not coming on. As all the fuses look good, so I have to take panel off on the weekend end and check for power at the fan, and work backwards. My foglights come on with my highbeam after a mechanic checked something, so i have lots to look for. Funnily, when I turn high beam on, both lights on the left switch off, if the fog light button is depressed. Very few people seem talented enough to work the electrics around the fuse box on these cars.
There's also a thermal switch (mounted on the metal portion of one of the condensor refrigerant lines) which is in series with the condensor fan motor (i.e., the condensor fan should be on when the AC compressor is energized, AND the refrigerant is hot which closes the thermal switch). pv908 -- Have you checked fuse #3? If it's OK, unplug the "c" connector and see if the terminal with the VB (green/white) wire is "burned" or not -- if that's OK, the next tests would require physically getting into the condensor fan area to determine where the problem lies: 1. use a jumper wire to bypass the thermal switch (and make sure that the thermal switch is still mounted in contact with the metal refrigerant line) and see if that fixes things, 2. see if there is +12V present at the condensor fan motor when the AC is running, but the condensor fan motor is not running (= bad motor) 3. see if there is not +12V at the input side of the thermal switch when the AC is running (= upstream electrical problem). If so, you can apply +12V directly from the battery to the motor to confirm that the motor itself is OK -- it's a very cheapy brush motor mounted in a terrible (wet) location so it would be high on my list of suspects, but getting some real diagnostic information to make repair decisions is better than guessing Image Unavailable, Please Login
It's been said before, but Steve, you are such an asset to this community. Thanks for all your input.
Steve, thanks for all this detail, I will work on it over the weekend. This makes it so much easier for me. Regards paul
As some of you thought, I had the black burn marks on the connector for the relevant wire that goes to the fan on the condensor. The fan works, but the male pin has no charge passing through it at all with the aircon on or off. So I guess I have to pull the board apart. My X Y connectors also have burnt bits. My tasks are: * I think I need to find out what each and every wire position is meant to do. * Try and buy all the connectors * Find out if the connectors have the alligator clips * cry
Your ok.. call Dave Helms at Scuderia Rampante.. He will modify your fuse box and send it back to you with instructions. Its very easy.. Snip, sod, shrink tube, and youll never worry about this issue again. Turn around time is very fast. R
Hi, I fixed my aircon temp by doing the following: Removed the fuse board. When I removed it I found 4 relays and grounding wires screwed in behind it (is this normal) I found a loose thin green taped up wire that showed 12 volts on the multimeter at low amps (less than 1 amp) when the aircond switch was depressed. I located the actual condenser fan wire (heavy gauge green white striped) on the c connector, thanks Steve. I bought a 4 pin 20 amp relay and wired it all up using the heavy gauge yellow wires as the power source. The fan now comes on when the aircon switch is pressed, and the air remains cold, even when stopped at traffic lights for a long period. I also have warm air with temp set to warmer and the aircon switch depressed. I was lucky enough to speak with Dave Helms, who was very helpful, my only concern was that my electrics have had lots of armatures working on it, and to get it back to scratch, hours of work (days and days) would be required by a Testarossa expert on electrics here in Sydney to get the car to work properly. How do you fix spaghetti? Anyway, my next projects are: To get the fresh air switch to work with the variable temperature and heater. To try and work out why my fog lights come on when the high beam is switched on. If anybody would like any help, please contact me while this is fresh in my mind. Thanks again to Steve for his diagram and help and Dave Helms. Paul
