May be useful for someone so here it is. On my 90 TS I noticed an oil leak on the exhaust cam side, service was done last October 800 miles ago. The drops shown are a weeks worth. Not overly concerning but it drops on the alternator which throws it all over including the crank sensors. As it turns out my alternator is the 140 amp version. I decided to monitor the leak and see if it can wait till service but: A) Did not want oil in my alternator and B) There is no heat protection on the alternator C) I want to protect the alternator Googling for heat shields I discovered Chrystlers/Jeeps have what is called a splash guard for the alternator. Ir protects from oil splash from leaky valve covers, its actually a thing. So I decided to just fab one that was better than nothing. I went to HomeDepot and got 26 Guage sheet metal, 16 gauge sheet metal and an aluminum rail. Measured using white poster board I then cut out a bracket from 16G and the shield from 26G. You can clamp a straight edge to the metal and clamp it to the work bench then bend it over and hammer the edge. I made the bracket first then the shield then using the poster board figured where to mount the bracket. I had to cut a relief along the the fire wall side of the shield for the wrench to fit. I riveted a rail on to keep it from vibrating and add structural rigidty and if any oil did drip perhaps the rail would channel it back away. The shield has 3 bends. Ohh the alternator bolt came out easily and I did not have to remove the alternator or belt I believe the alternator has a slight boss or a sleeve that sits in the mounting arm. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
While I am in there I sealed the thermocouple ecus, new thermocouples, new O2 sensors, New Crank Sensors, New Ignition Modules, cleaned the maf's and screens and reset the ohms to 383, one was real close the other was 395, anti evap valves, fuel vapor check valves and FPR's. Stuff was all 25 years old and was worse for the wear. No point in getting stranded 300 miles away from home for a few hundred bucks in preventive maintenance for a few common things that are known to fail and be consumable.
There should be an OE shield for the alternator. Same material as the exhaust shielding. 145140 or 155684, depending on engine #. Your solution certainly looks more robust, and the aluminum is a much nicer material for the application (vs silver painted fiberglass). Nice work.
Side note took it out, after ECU learning 10 min and fans kicked on + 1 minute, engine is as silky smooth as olive oil. It seemed fine before but wow what a difference. If your car has not had them done consider it, they have limited life due to the environment they live in. I used DeOxit on all connections then Stabilant on the pins including the MAF plugs. The alternator shield is doing its secondary duty, its catching oil post run and it directs as hoped it so now I can see the leak condition and severity. Oil is still in the middle dip stick range so not adding oil yet. I like being able to see and monitor it, will probably pull motor after winter need to put in carpet and paint skirts to match car and finish replacing all the rest of the oil/water temp sensors and rebuild the brakes and put in Hill TOB inspect the ring nut, triple seals, clutch plates etc. I bought a new dual plate FW from MD Clutches before they closed their doors. Again don't want to be stranded when clutch goes to the floor 300 miles from home. Image Unavailable, Please Login