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Anatomy of passenger fuel tank

Discussion in '206/246' started by jselevan, Dec 21, 2009.

  1. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

    Nov 2, 2003
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    1) The center tube of the three small tubes coming off the top of my passenger fuel tank is broken close to the tank. While I can get a hose and clamp on it, the stub is quite tenuous. Looking at the U.S. version parts catalog, I see that there is a return from the carbs to this center tube, suggesting that fuel not entering the float bowls cycles back to the passenger tank via this center tube.

    I have entertained closing this tube with solder, and placing a T-fitting in one of the other tubes to mimic the system. However, I have no idea of the routing of the other tubes within the tank.

    I suspect both are for venting vapors as they terminate in the fuel-carbon cannister.

    Has anyone a picture or idea of where the three tubes run within the tank?

    2) Has anyone found the proper material to spray onto the tanks, that is, the factory material? Is its purpose thermal insulation, rock protection, or other? It looks like dried oatmeal.

    Thanks for your help.

    Jim S.
     
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  3. racerboy9

    racerboy9 Formula 3
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    Search "wurth" in this forum and you'll find the gas tank fiber coating thread.
     
  4. 4CamGT

    4CamGT Formula 3

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  5. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    I've got 2-3 liters of extra Wurth beige undercoating if you need them.
     
  6. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

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    #5 jselevan, Dec 21, 2009
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2009
    Thanks, guys, for the info.

    Scott.mac - is the material used for the purpose of rock guard, or is it for thermal insulation? Is undercoating really the right stuff?

    I am interested in purchasing your extra Wurth stuff. I will pm you. Is it Wurth Stone Guard Spray Beige (89073) ?

    Anyone with information about the anatomy inside the tank - that is, where the various vent tubes run (top, buttom, etc.)?

    Jim S.
     
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  8. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
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    Jim,

    Finding a matching colour and texture for your fuel tank all in one place may be tricky but do not fret. The Wurth products are excellent and can be painted. I have found the best way to achive a correct finish is to find a gravel guard with the right texture and then paint over it with a paint of the correct colour. The finished product is quite perfect and extremely durable.
     
  9. nerodino

    nerodino Formula 3
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    #7 nerodino, Dec 22, 2009
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2009
    The Wurth beige underseal is the Original product used by the factory.
    I tried to get it here in the UK but the minimum Wurth would ship was a whole case and this made cost prohibitive as i only needed one can!
    I was then told that they had stoped manufacturing this colour due to lack of demand and to watch out for old stock as it goes off.
    I now have a suspicion that they may have manufactured a new batch.
    Scott is yours from a new batch?
    It's too late for me however as my tanks are now silver.
    P S the beige Wurth product changes colour with age and goes a dull gold colour eventually.
    G P
     
  10. Jon Hansen

    Jon Hansen Formula Junior
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    #8 Jon Hansen, Dec 22, 2009
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2009
    Jim,
    Please be aware that this wonderful rockguard product is water soluable and air cures once sprayed out. If it freezes only once while in the liquid form, it is ruined. Wurth would not supply me in Michigan during the winter months, so we would stock up on the various colors for the colder season.
    Make sure you are getting fresh never frozen product. Older product can be identified by the plastic container that appears to be imploding on itself. Do not use it.
    It also needs to be applied with a simple and inexpensive air siphon gun that screws onto the top of the can of product. You need this gun along with the product if you want the correct textured appearance when finished. It is possible to thin out the mix with water to achieve a smoother spray out pattern if desired. We did this when using the product as an exterior rock guard, and then finish painted with body color.
    The Dino tanks were beige originally. The product turns gold from being in the environment of the Dino engine compartment. Tanks sprayed with " Body Schutz" that were in trunk compartments, like a Daytona for example, still can retain the original beige color for reference.
    I'm glad you are striving for originality here and not just painting your tanks gold.
    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243582
    The tanks shown in this thread are 100% correct in my opinion.
    Best,
    Jon
     
  11. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

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    Shoot me an email, I have a photo of a tank out on the floor. Seems I can not longer post photo's

    Dave
     
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  13. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    IIRC all of the top tank tubes are 'vents', of one sort or another....

    I vote for pulling the tank and brazing them all in properly, but I noticed on my carb return line it is NOT a very long projecting tube the rubber line mates to, it was also 'slick' and not knurled like the more common treatment for a clamped fuel line attachment...

    You hit a 'limit' on photo posting, unless you Subscribe.......
     
  14. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #11 BigTex, Dec 22, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  15. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

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  16. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

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    Great info all, thanks much.

    Any ideas on how to strip the old material off of the tanks?

    Notice on the picture below (above) that the three tubes terminate in different parts of the tank. The center tube is the one in question. If I clear the material from around the three tubes I may be able to cut out a section of the tank about the size of a silver dollar coin, fabricate a new aluminum plate with tube attached, and weld it back into place. However, if the tube dives deep into the tank, then this will be problematic.

    Thanks everyone.

    Jim S.
     
  17. Jon Hansen

    Jon Hansen Formula Junior
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    This tank appears to have been painted.

    I would start by scraping the coating off with a razor blade type scraper, move to a steel brush in a drill/rotary tool, finish up with 36 grit by hand or DA sander.
    You may need to heat with a propane torch or electric heat gun to soften the coating prior to initial scraping.
    Any small scratches in the metal will be covered up with the thick coating.
    Post some pics for us on this project if you can please Jim..

    Water soluble. (I do know how to spell. lol)
     
  18. racerboy9

    racerboy9 Formula 3
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    I used aircraft stripper from the auto parts store. About $25 for a gallon can. Fiber coating came off easily with only a few stubborn spots. Use good gloves and a putty knife. I also used a scotch brite scrub pad. I would epoxy primer the tank before using the Wurth product.
     
  19. daviekj

    daviekj Formula Junior
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    #16 daviekj, Dec 23, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Jim, i can't help you on the anatomy, the only internal structure I can remember is the large diameter pipe at the bottom and a dividing panel down the middle.

    I drained my tanks and left them outside for several weeks before working on them. To get the "dried oatmeal" off, I used a combination of paint stripper and rather tentatively a hot air gun (paint stripper sort) and a scraper. Once the worst was off, i used more paint stripper and scotch pads. Finally a good rubbing down with panel wipe.

    I noted several corroded pin points (corrosion from outside, inside was perfect). Used a verneir and some pins to determin how deep they were compared to metal thickness, and was happy to re-use. Eventually I will replace when I can find a supplier of the original form.

    I tried different paint materials on test pannels to re-create the original finish. Schutz with very short spray nozel (like a sawn off shot gun), allowed to dry for at least two weeks, then followed by gold spray paint looked good. I did both tanks, put them in and ran the car for a few months. However, the Schutz had carried on shrinking and cracked the gold. I kind of expected it. It only craked in a few places, but i could not live with it, so took them out and restripped them again. Second time I used gravi-gaud to re-coat them (the sort of stone chip paint that is used on sills in paint shops). Again, set the gun to splatter. They have been pefect for a year and half to date. Very pleased with the finish.

    The paint material Scott points to looks like may be more suitable. You also raise a good question about the potential insulation protection that the original material may have been for. You refer to it as "dried oatmeal" which is a good description. Without doing a propper sample test, this stuff is very similar to that sprayed on the under side of the metal wings and ontop of the fibre glass inner wing covers. Looks like it was a universal covering during manufacture.

    Kevin
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  20. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

    Nov 2, 2003
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    Thought this might be helpful for orthers - to add to the data bank:

    I used an old colonoscope that I had just for this purpose. After wiggling a bit inside the tank, I was able to visualize all three vent tubes. The two outer tubes vent to the top of the tank, in opposite corners. The middle tube dives straight down and terminates approximately 2 cm from the bottom. It is tack welded, in several places in its route downward, to the corner formed by the center baffle and the wall that it sits atop.

    The top of the tank is actually a "false" ceiling. It is two layers of aluminum with a space between them.

    No, I didn't first clean the colonoscope. Yes, I did wear gloves. No, I didn't clean the scope after examining the tank. Where it's going no one cares.

    Jim S.
     
  21. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    I hate to be overly "anal", but why do you own a colonoscope? Best regards and a very Happy New Year! Alberto
     
  22. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

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    I have a used coloscope and gastroscope...I use to practice medicine (Internist) and a partner of mine was a gastroenterologist. He let me have these two old scopes after they were no longer appropriate for human consumption.

    Jim S.
     
  23. ferrarioldman

    ferrarioldman Formula 3
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    #20 ferrarioldman, Jan 5, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  24. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    My tanks were covered in fiberglass, but were leaking. Removed the fiberglass wondering if it had been a patch job, but evidently "L" series have that and not the Wurth coating. Anybody else? Regards, Alberto
     

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