I hope it's good for 20 years. I got a good amount done today. I have everything done that requires laying on the floor until the motor goes back in, so I'm really happy. I replaced all studs that came out when I pulled the oil pan with new ones. They're cheap and easy to install. I then made sure everything was clean again for the last time and bolted the pan up. I put the transmission linkage and cross brace back in too. (I wrapped duct tape about the oil line because I can't get to it very well with the engine on the cart. The duct tape will remind me to tighten when the motor is back in the car) It's now time to get into my garage kegerator and enjoy the holiday. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I put all nuts/bolts/washer in ZipLoc freezer bags and write on them where it all came from. I got the alternator and water pump back on and new A/C compressor seals came today, so I hope to have that apart and back on this weekend. I pulled the 1-4 exhaust cam and mic'd the valve shims for that one. I changed the seal and ring on it and will do the other 3 this weekend hopefully. I have the HE valve tools coming and plan on swapping the shims after the cams are back in. I'll have to do that after I have the belts back on and I turn the engine over a couple of times since I would want to check the clearances again. If anyone needs 1.625 Gates silicone hose, please let me know as I could only find 3' pieces. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
And done for the weekend. I pulled all the cams and mic'd the shims. I had to order 10 new shims, as I am only able to swap a handful around. The A/C compressor was leaking at the body, so I replaced the large o-ring, but torn the new seal going over the shaft so I'm waiting on another one to finish that up. All of the cams are sitting "locked" in place with the timing marks lined up. I hope to get my pulleys back from SRI this week with their coating on them. I'll be able to get it all back together next weekend if the pulleys come this week. Whoever did the last belt service really nicked the hell out of the cam covers. All 4 had nicks in them. I knocked them down a bit with 1500 grit though. Still not happy to see that. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looks like you're progressing nicely-- taking your time and doing things correctly, yet still making good headway. This is an inspriring thread, knowing that my car's major looms this winter. Thanks for the updates!
Good to see you can buy the seals to put into that a/c compressor. Can you tell me where you got them from please. Or parts numbers. Cheers John
I bought the "newer style" seal from Automobile Air Conditioning Parts of Tucson Arizona, Century Auto Air, AC Parts, AC Service and Hoses, centuryautoair.com. I didn't get their install tool the first time around and like an idiot, I tore the seal like they said I would. I also order the original old style seal this time around too just in case I can't get the newer one to work. I got that off of Amazon.
Over the weekend I was able to get the new cat delete pipes on. They're nothing special from Superformance for all of $300. My little helper "cleaned" a bunch for me, and I needed to follow him around and clean up after him. Today my freshly coated pulleys arrived from SRI and they sure are pretty. I got the Hill tensioners and the pulleys on without the dowel pins. The belt took some persuading, but it slid on. I think not having the pins in helped a lot because the pulleys could move. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well done sir! Did you end up buying the ring nut socket for the cam gear pulley and if so who'd you get it from?
What do you think about the Superformance straight pipes? Any issues with them? Did you order from the UK or is there a US vendor?
I got the socket from Ricambi and they've been very fast in their shipping. I got them from their UK site and the shipping was reasonable and very fast. I'm very happy with the pipes considering they are 1/3 the cost of other versions out there for sale. I also bought the new water pump from them too.
After about 9 hours yesterday, I got the cams timed... The marks are not correct on all of my cams. The intake marks for both intake cams are right around 15-16* instead of either 12* or 14*. I was able to adjust them back to 14* for both. The 1-4 exhaust cam was off too but the 5-8 was spot on. The reason it took so long was that the 5-8 intake cam was on the last hole and I was hoping I could squeak by... and no. I had to pull the belt and start all over. Then I noticed that after I got the belt back on, all 4 cams were off 1 full tooth. I was able to lock down the cams, loosen the tensioner and spin the crank back one tooth. At that point though, I started all over just to be sure. (Oh and my 2 year old loves to help) I pulled all the pointers and the gauge off and I'm going to check again today. I'm not liking that the cam marks are off as far as they are. It was odd that the valve bucket would rise a hair prior to dropping down when the cam started to open the valve. I used the opening movement as the reference point and that showed 14* on the money. Any thoughts on why the dial gauge showed upward movement initially instead of downward? All the clearances have been set to factory specs with either shim swaps or new shims. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Out of curiosity, what timing specs did you set your cams to, and did you find tdc on #1 and #5 before you put them on the marks?
I found TDC on #1 and #8. I found it on #1 first with a piston stop and then confirmed with a dial gauge. After each cam, I rechecked TDC with the dial gauge. I used 90* off of #1 to guess at TDC for #8. Then used a dial gauge on #8 to confirm. I used the non-cat specs, so 14* and 53*. I thought that the timing marks would be at the 12* and 54*, but they were closer to the 14*. I can't help but think something is off since a lot of people have said the timing marks are spot on. I think my motor has been apart before, but I'm not sure. The reason I think that is because there are no stamps on the 5-8 bank on the head and cam caps. I have to check everything again this week because I need to pull the bolts out of the cams to put the o-rings on them, so I have no problem doing it all again.
It's my guess that Ferrari marked the 348 cams based on the market the car was going to. So if it was headed for the U.S. in Cali, the camshafts got timed for cars with catalytic converters, and then the cams marked. If it was a non cat Euro car, the cams got timed then mark for that market. If it was a spider they got advanced and then marked, etcetera. So my guess is the way you chose to setup your timing is different than the factory marks, because factory marks are set for a different market than what you chose . This is just a hunch I have, but haven't ever verified. It would be interesting to see how your cams are marked/timed from the factory. Find TDC on #1 & #5 (don't guess, a piston stop makes it way faster and easier), put the cams on the marks, and then see how they time out. Mine timed out spot on for a U.S. car with cats.
After trying 4 different ways to time the cams, I stopped tinkering around with them. The marks were just about spot on. Here it is today. I'm waiting on a few more parts and I hope to have it running next weekend. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Is there a particular piston stop that is best to use on our 348/355's? Or any old one will do? Also, what thread size are our spark plug holes?
I used this stop: Amazon.com: Proform 66792 Top Dead Center Locater: Automotive And this TDC tool: Amazon.com: Innovative Products of America 7886 14" Long 14mm Thread Top Dead Center Indicator: Automotive Both need this adapter though: Amazon.com: IPA 7892 Socket: Automotive I used the stop to find TDC, set the pointer, and then used the TDC and dial gauge to check what the stop showed. They showed the same point as being TDC.
Well I tried to fire it up yesterday and it just cranks and cranks, but won't fire. I put everything back together as I found it, but replaced the crank sensors with Kia ones. I pulled the fuel pump fuses and cranked the motor until the oil pressure light turned off. At that point, I put the fuses back in and attempted to start the car. It just cranked and wouldn't fire. I swapped back to my old crank sensors since they could cause problems, but same issue. Eventually, fuel started dripping out of the 5-6 header to cat pipe union (I'll need to fix that leak...). I'm at least getting fuel to 5-8, I'll check 1-4 this evening to see if I'm getting fuel there. So I know there are known issues with the ground strap to the transmission, but I don't have that ground. It wasn't there when I took it all apart. The oil gauge just goes all the way to the right when the key is turned on too. I'm going to pull plugs this evening too to check to see if they're wet (I would think the 5-8 are at least) The car ran before I took it apart, so I know it's something I did, or didn't do when putting it back in. It's probably something really stupid. Any thoughts?
I've used 2 different sets of crank sensors now and same results. Would the fuel pumps even send fuel with bad crank sensors?
