Another 430 F1 Switching to Neutral

Change setting to metric
Then try 2.31 and then 3.01
The numbers for closed should be closer to 20 mm
Once you have the right numbers .. minus the two and divide by 5.6 .. multiple by 100

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The number is supposed to be the TCU version .. which your year is the 2.31 but Launch is funny and sometimes you need to try the two to get right numbers .. The key is always having it in metric

44 sounds right based on mileage
be aware this is a reading of numbers that can be change by someone with the right tool so even though it sounds right it always can be wrong if someone wanted to play games or at a clutch replacement did it wrong

 

Using a stopwatch give the timings of the following


How many seconds pump runs on door open
Turn key on
How many minutes does pump stay off
How many seconds does it run in second cycle after being off
Shift from 1;to n to 1 let..how many shifts before pump runs ..how many seconds

Do the same last three steps with engine running

Let me know the timings and after i can have a call with you if you like

Do you have any diagnosis tool?



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Perfect ..would be my recommendation

Just realized you mentioned that in your first post - sorry

A few people that I currently working with so I forgot you said that

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Also ruun a health report on thinkdiag and send me link to report - function of the tool
Also go to live data and select all in TCU and send me data link

 

ok - lets get timings with car on .. and then we can start to make some decisions
Based on the report ( clutch index) - your clutch is wearing correctly and your PIS is 4.79 ( within range)

 

We will address each item once we get the data and our a plan together

There will be two plans of attack depending on cost , risk of not being the silver bullet, amd reward (will explain) depends on diy vs mechanic
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I sent you my number .. we can discuss and then you can post your plan ( depending on our phone call )
You can use your tool to see pump on/off by monitoring pump relay live data
Would be nice to get how many shifts you get when engine running foot on brake - changing from 1 to n to 1 -

 

also .. it is unfortunate the thinkdiag doesn't have e-diff support yet .. that will be a data point missing

 

While fresh in my mind after analyzing the data here and reports you sent me ..and before we speak ...this is what I am thinking (may change based our phone call)

Accumulator is weak
Clutch solenoid is boarder line

Change relay
Change accumulator 250 to 300
Change clutch solenoid 200 to 250
Bleed / flush clutch
Bleed actuator (needs to be removed )
Do relearn
Run full data dump for records and compare to previous dump
Warm car car by driving city cycle with multiple shifts and low torque medium torque and high torque starts ..about 5 each
Adjust pis using seat of pants ..(in first and level ground and see when car starts to move and back off a little) or using tool and monitoring shaft rpm

Parts should be less than 600 or so including a few quarts of Mobil 1 sync ATF

Not sure if you will be doing yourself ..i can give some guidance

After all this
.the last component is the Ediff solenoid..if you graph the pressure while staying in 3rd gear and in 6 the gear it may let us know

The SD tool has a leakage rate which also let's you know if bad

The hardest part is getting the actuator off ..cat has to be moved / removed and sometimes the accumulator is very very tight ..the rest is straight forward..just need to keep work area clean including wherever you open system (solenoid and accumulator)

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I miss a step

After city cycle come home and home and let idle for 5 mins then move car shifting 1 to 2 to 1 and then hit brake for one min .. repeat 3 times
then continue with PIS adjustment

 

Clarification..the Ediff solenoid shouldn't be touched until the rest of plan failed to fix or you get access to a SD and check leakage rate

Graphing pressure as you drive a city cycle can let us know if needed as well

But as noted ..start with the plan laid out ..there is high probability that all will be good after that

As mentioned.. however you are driving..you doing well ..wear index is nice and low

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The risk reward item was the clutch solenoid

It is boarder line so if you don't change it you may or may not be ok .. but if you are pretty much bleeding everything it is just the part cost .. a decision you would have to make / evaluate

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Last thought ..I saw a few power related issues ..did you happen to suffer from a dead battery .. just wanted to make sure it was a dead battery and not a weak current battery that needs replacing
.how old is your battery ..if more than 4;years ..always good to replace

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I would change the f1 pump, the accumulator and the pressure relief valve. All those three, are service items and they need to be changed every 10-15 years. I had a very similar issue on my scuderia. After changing all these things, we bled the system and the car is running better than new with no issues.

 

For the benefit of others ..spoke to OP and given that he will do the work himself he will take the first step in my proposed plan and replace accumulator (and a new relay) using my instructions and adjust the Pis and take it from there. He knows that it may not be the only thing to fix everything but given he is doing himself the risk of having to do more and pay a mechanic to go back is non existent.

I would have done something similar especially that the accumulator is a wear item and is needed .. i don't like throwing parts at a problem unless the client didn't want to take a small risk of a repeat visit ...

I still so believe a true bleed which by nature will check screws etc is a good idea regardless

I also mentioned that he should put on his list for the future even if problem is fixed a new clutch ev solenoid

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The Ediff solenoid is on the diff near axle
The clutch solenoid is one of the solenoids in the power unit with the other solenoids

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