Another cold start injector question | FerrariChat

Another cold start injector question

Discussion in '308/328' started by montreal328, May 4, 2012.

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  1. montreal328

    montreal328 Formula Junior

    Nov 1, 2009
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    Eric
    I was reading a thread on the subject last week or so, and I decided to re-investigate an old problem. ( if you want short version skip to paragraph 3)

    When I got my car a few years ago the connector to the cold start injector was disconnected. I ran the car like that for a year and it ran fine. After doing a bit of work in the engine bay I decided to replug the connector. Car started ok, ran ok, but after about 20 mins, at lower RPM, it just wanted to stall. And it did. Smack downtown in traffic, F-1 weekend! She was flooded bad. Managed to restart her, not without huge black smoke coming for the exhaust and all. Eventually got her home on high RPM. After a stoke of genius I disconnected the plug again and my problems were solved. I then assumed the injector was faulty, I didn't need it, and life went on.


    So here is what I did:
    I took out the injector from the plenum
    plugged the hole to the plenum with tape
    reconnected the cable to the injector
    positioned the injector over a canister.
    I started the car (cold) : a squirt of gas came out at starter engagement (prefect!)
    Now for the weird: every time I gave it some sudden gas, the injector would squirt ... I got the car really warm...same thing. If engine acceleration was gradual: no squirt.
    I was under the impression that after the initial start, the injector would be cut out for good.(hence cold start injector)
    Mine is obviously sending too much gas when the car is running... (stall from flooding)

    Any knowledgeable fuel guy out there with an answer?
     
  2. DWPC

    DWPC Formula Junior

    Mar 10, 2011
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    Sedona AZ
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    Dennis
    The cold start injector should only function when the starter is cranking and when the thermo-time switch is closed. Look to the thermo-time switch and relays that control it. There's a circuit diagram in the owner's manual.
     
    Brooklands likes this.
  3. Jeka

    Jeka Formula 3
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    Nov 20, 2010
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    Johan
    It shouldn't do this so i guess it's faulty. It acts now like an acceleration pump found on carburetors :) I unplugged mine also because the engine doesn't need it.
     
  4. montreal328

    montreal328 Formula Junior

    Nov 1, 2009
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    Eric
    Where is the thermo-time switch located? Hard to tell from the Ricambi schematics.
     
  5. Constance

    Constance Karting

    Apr 10, 2009
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    Constance
    #5 Constance, May 4, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  6. SeattleM5

    SeattleM5 Formula 3
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    Jul 9, 2006
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    Ettore Palazzo
    #6 SeattleM5, May 4, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hi Eric, the Ferrari part # is 121778, Bosch part# is 0 280 130 217. It's item #10 in the first image below. The switch screws into the top of the engine under the plenum and it's a bit challenging to get to. It can be replaced without removing the plenum but you have to remove the oil filter and move a vacuum hose and coolant hose out of the way to get a wrench in there. The second image gives you a peak at what it looks like in the engine. The third image shows a close up of what it looks like out of the engine. Hope this helps.
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  7. montreal328

    montreal328 Formula Junior

    Nov 1, 2009
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    Eric
    Absolutely does! Thanks!
    Now, what are the chances the thermo-time switch is the problem, compared to a bad relay? (looked up relay list and have no clue which relay would be involved)
     
    Horseman55 likes this.
  8. stevel48

    stevel48 Formula 3

    Jan 4, 2005
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    Steve (85 308 Owner)
    It's may be the thermo time switch.

    1985 TSB 10-13 states:
    Bosch k- jet with lambda

    Additional fuel under acceleration with cold engine

    With the engine block still cold ( temp below 45c), the cold start injector gives additional fuel under the control of the thermo time switch (providing ground) and the differential pressure switch (providing a positive). The latter, via a vacuum hose, is connected to the intake manifold, and closes momentarily when vacuum decreases quickly.
     
  9. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    #9 Steve Magnusson, May 4, 2012
    Last edited: May 4, 2012
    To test the thermo-time switch, unplug the cold start injector and measure the resistance from the RV (red-green) wire in the (now unplugged) harness connector to the bare engine block with the key "off" (this is identical to measuring from terminal W of the thermo-time switch to the body of the thermo-time switch):

    cold (i.e., after sitting overnight and before running the engine) = should be 0 Ohms

    warm (i.e., after getting the coolant temp up to normal and shutting the engine off) = should be 100~160 Ohms

    If your warm measurement is still 0 Ohms = bad thermo-time switch

    If both measurements are OK, your problem is elsewhere.

    PS You can do all of the resistance tests shown on page D35 in the Mondial 8/QV WSM at the unplugged CSI connector by knowing that:

    1. the RV (red-green) wire in the CSI connector is connected to the W terminal of the thermo-time switch;

    2. the BN (white-black) wire in the CSI connector is connected to the G terminal of the thermo-time switch; and

    3. the engine block is connected to the body (ground) of the thermo-time switch.
     
  10. montreal328

    montreal328 Formula Junior

    Nov 1, 2009
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    I'll be changing the oil next week, so when I remove the oil filter I'll take a look at it. My car (1987 328 US) seems to be running a bit rich, so I though it might have been the cold start injector leaking even if it is disconnected. But after checking, it doesn't seem to be. Is the thermo-time switch the only component of the circuit cutting off the injector, or is there something else in the circuit to do with the starter or key position. I really didn't think fuel injected cars used extra injector fuel for rapid engine acceleration... Do they?
     
  11. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
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    Apr 26, 2006
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    Nope....
     
  12. DWPC

    DWPC Formula Junior

    Mar 10, 2011
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    Dennis
    No...but I'd bet some one has tried to wire it that way!

    Your 328 has a Lambda sensor that adjusts the mixture continuously based on O2 measured in the cat, and it's often the cause of fuel delivery issues. You may be dealing with two problems and the cold start issue is masking something else.
     
  13. TacElf

    TacElf Formula 3
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    Happily, the O2 sensor is fairly easy and cost effective to replace.
     
  14. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #14 Steve Magnusson, May 8, 2012
    Last edited: May 8, 2012
    It varies depending on the F model/CIS injection system type and the operating conditions:

    K-Jet without Lambda (1980-82 US 308i-2V & 1983 US 308QV) = CSI only used during starter motor cranking (see description page 68 260/83 OM); throttle blip enrichment provided by WUR (that senses intake manifold pressure) by reducing the control pressure. CSI not used after starting event.

    K-Jet with Lambda (1984-85 US 308QV & US 328) = CSI used during starter cranking and to provide enrichment during very-cold-running throttle blip (see descriptions on page 68 307/84 OM and page 66 396/85 OM). These models use a different WUR that only senses atmospheric pressure. On the late US 308QV, the differential pressure switch detects the intake manifold vacuum drop and fires the CSI during very-cold-running throttle blip. On the US 328, the MicroPlex ignition ECU detects the intake manifold pressure drop and fires the CSI during very-cold-running throttle blip. CSI not used on either model during cold-running nor warm-running.

    KE-Jet with Lambda (US TR) = CSI used during starter cranking and to provide enrichment during very-cold-running and cold-running throttle blip. The differential pressure switch detects the intake manifold vacuum drop and fires the CSI during very-cold-running and cold-running throttle blip. CSI not used during warm-running.

    For these descriptions:

    "very-cold-running": coolant thermoswitch in cold state and thermo-time switch = closed (after recooling after starter motor cranking)
    "cold-running": coolant thermoswitch in cold state and thermo-time switch open
    "warm-running": coolant thermoswitch in warm state and thermo-time switch open
     
  15. montreal328

    montreal328 Formula Junior

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    Is it possible the O2 sensor has gotten really gunk up from not so ideal fuel mixture? My exhaust are always black...
     
  16. TacElf

    TacElf Formula 3
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    Aug 15, 2010
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    Even in the best tuned car, O2 sensors don't last forever.
     

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