Another Convertible Top question

It could very well be the first micro switch in the series which doesn’t allow the hydraulic portion to start.

 

Oddly, according to the chart, the pump should run as soon as you press the switch... Part of the chart here...

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Did you check the 30 amp pump fuse?

 

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(behind the driver)

Since you've already found the relay, check for fuse power on relay socket pin 87 ("2" may be marked on the socket) with the ignition on.

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Often on relays, power is supplied to pin 30, but not in this case. It comes in on pin 87.

The roof ECU appears to supply a voltage to the relay coil, since the other side of the relay coil has an earth on it.

Connector 19Q/25Q is the one sitting on top of the solenoid block.

 

You have a micro switch out of adjustment. It's probably the one that tells the roof ecu the "flaps" are all the way open. You can access it by removing the left 1/4 trim where the seat belt shoulder strap pass through. You will see 2 connectors that are shrink tubed. One will be for the flap switch. Just follow the harness. Check that first.

 

On any pin?

This relay?

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Actually, I rechecked and this relay should have power on pin 87 even with the ignition OFF (if the fuse is ok).

 

Put your voltmeter probes on 87 and the chassis (ground) with the relay pulled to check for volts coming to the relay. If no voltage (12 volts), then either the fuse has blown or there is a power wiring issue.

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Yes, 85 (4) can be used as a ground if there are no good grounds in that area.

If you are getting voltage at 87 (2 on the relay socket), you could try jumping 87 and 30 with a heavy duty piece of wire to see if the pump runs. If the pump runs, then relay control is the issue, not power. Note that 87 is live, so you may get some sparks as you jumper the relay socket. The current will be quite large, so don't use an uninsulated wire (it will get quite "warm").

I'm not sure of the relay socket orientation, so just use pin 30 as a guide.

 

Don't forget to check your leather tool briefcase for a replacement

 

Blowing a 30 amp fuse is a pretty big deal unless the last time the top was let down it was done with the engine off. Moving the top with just the battery can lower the voltage in the system, causing more amps to be drawn from the battery and that can blow the fuse. If you're only moving the top with the engine running, then it could be you have a weak battery and idling wasn't enough to make up for the difference, causing a low voltage condition and too many amps pulled through the fuse. It could also be a bunch of other things, like your hydraulic fluid is old and needs changing. A high viscosity in your hydraulic system could stress the motor and cause it to draw too much power.

A fuse blowing is not something to dismiss by simply changing it. There's a reason and until you find the reason, you'll be blowing fuses.

 

This was my thought as well. The pump must have felt stressed and caused the fuse to blow.

 

It's called a "maxi-fuse". Your local auto parts store should have them. I would buy a few

 

For future reference, this has been confirmed to be NOT the case. As Tom @tbakowsky says, you still need a signal from the flap fully down (open) switch before the roof's hydraulic pump operates. i.e. switch E.F/A

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The switch should show open circuit when pushed. Although the flap should be already down with the roof closed, the flap drive motor, for a brief period, drives the flap down during the opening sequence to ensure the the flap contacts the microswitch.

See this epic thread:

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/149423555/