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Another Distributor Cap Question

Discussion in '308/328' started by DWPC, May 20, 2011.

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  1. DWPC

    DWPC Formula Junior

    Mar 10, 2011
    733
    Sedona AZ
    Full Name:
    Dennis
    #1 DWPC, May 20, 2011
    I've got my distributor caps off to install new ignition wires. Does the coil wire just pull out of the caps? The old wires are pretty tight so I thought I'd ask before applying brute force. Both caps look good, no carbon tracks are apparent, though one is the original 26 year-old Marelli, and somewhat grungy, and one is a virtually new replacement.

    What's the best treatment of the caps before re-installing? Just wipe 'em out? Emory cloth to clean up the brass contacts? Is it possible to renew the carbon contact? Does everyone use dielectric grease for the wire ends in the distributor?

    All of my spark plug extenders (Mayer brand) had holes burned through their insulator by arcing where their rather large inside plug clips almost touch the insulator. The replacements from Kingsborne have much a tidier inside clip with a consistent gap 360 degrees around.
     
  2. PT 328

    PT 328 F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    May 1, 2005
    4,003
    #2 PT 328, May 20, 2011
    To remove the coil wire from the distributor cap slide your fingernail under the brass button and pull up to remove it. You will see the set screw under the brass button. After the set screw is loose the wire will slide out.

    I just wiped out the inside of my caps as I had no need to start messing with things.
     
  3. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,313
    UK
    #3 Iain, May 21, 2011

    Brass button?

    On a QV the coil lead is secured by a spike screwed through it which is behind the centre carbon brush. Grab hold of the centre brush and twist it & pull it gently & it will come out. Then you can get to the screw/spike underneath
     
  4. PT 328

    PT 328 F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    May 1, 2005
    4,003
    #4 PT 328, May 21, 2011
    After further review you are correct it is not technically a "brass button". The correct term was not coming to my head at the time of my post. The bottom line is the carbon brush with the spring to it has to be removed to see the set screw.
     
  5. DWPC

    DWPC Formula Junior

    Mar 10, 2011
    733
    Sedona AZ
    Full Name:
    Dennis
    #5 DWPC, May 21, 2011
    Last edited: May 21, 2011
    Thanks for clarifying that. None of the diagrams show that detail. These are the first distributors I've dealt with that employ screws to make the electrical connection with the wire core, let alone hidden screws. I'm learning that Ferraris have many...um...idiosyncrasies.
     
  6. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,313
    UK
    #6 Iain, May 21, 2011
    All good, be careful with the spring when you put the brush back in - it can get bent quite easily. The way to do it is to twist it in. Make sure the thing is moving freely as well afterwards - they can stick.
     
  7. Erol

    Erol Karting

    Sep 1, 2020
    136
    New York, USA
    Full Name:
    Erol
    #7 Erol, Sep 5, 2021
    Reviving an old thread! My carbon brush was sticking so I had to replace the spring with one I pulled off another brush I got at the hardware store. Is it a good idea to lube the brush and channel it sits in or leave dry? Also how far proud is the brush supposed to sit? It’s meant to maintain constant contact with the center of the rotor, correct? Thanks
     
  8. lm2504me

    lm2504me Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 26, 2004
    1,121
    Nipomo, CA
    Full Name:
    Richard
    #8 lm2504me, Sep 5, 2021
    No lube. Dry. Lube is an insulator. With cap installed, the carbon must touch the rotor.
     
    waymar, Steve Magnusson, absostone and 1 other person like this.

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