Another F1 Issue Thread | FerrariChat

Another F1 Issue Thread

Discussion in '360/430' started by imahorse, Sep 24, 2021.

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  1. imahorse

    imahorse F1 Rookie
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    Nov 25, 2017
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    Hey guys. I've developed a bit of a problem I am hoping someone could share some insight on. I have a few issues with my F1 360 I believe could be related, but I very well could be mistaken.

    I had an issue where once every few hundred miles or so the car would drop into neutral when shifting gears. This would happen at any gear. I assumed it was the clutch, since the place I bought it from said it needed one. Upon closer inspection via the window, the clutch was almost brand new.

    I then had a TCU reflashed to CS spec by a reputable person on here. I noticed that after installing it, the car makes a noise on the 4th to 5th shift at mid throttle when warm. It doesn't really sound like a grind. More like a loud scratch. I removed it and put in the old one. I tried talking to the person who did the flash for some ideas, but they won't respond. I put back the original TCU and now the same problem happens.

    After that issue developed, I bled the F1 system and did a relearn. Nothing. I then hooked up an SDx and set PIS up the proper way on both TCUs as well as a relearn. No change. I did learn however that the clutch solenoid appears to be leaking 100cc/min according to the SDx on the old TCU which is not ideal. The cs TCU says it isn't, however I can't help but wonder if that is from the car that was used to flash it.

    I thought it could be a synchro. That would be strange since at no throttle it makes no sound when I shift. I heard of someone having a synchro start going so they switched to mt90 from 75w90ns and their sound went away. I changed fluids and it made no difference.


    When I changed fluids, I noticed that there was leaking at the position sensor on the actuator. I decided to change number 69 (lol) and pulled the sensor. I was expecting a bunch of fluid to come out when I did, but there wasn't much. Is there not supposed to be fluid in that area, and if not, any ideas where it came from?

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I can't help but feel that the answer is somewhere in the F1 system, but I haven't completely ruled out a synchro. I could be wrong, but I believe it is the 5th and 6th gear by where the actuator mounts and that all looks good, although the friction material could be on it's way out. My current course of action is to swap in that part on the actuator and the clutch solenoid on the F1 unit. Any other ideas? I have a friend who had F1 issues and made his own manual conversion and I'm starting to consider attempting the same thing after all of this. Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  2. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,680
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    Dominick
    If you are seeing oil in the area of the sensor that means the seals in the actuator are going ..

    Since you have a sdx let us know pressures in idle and with engine off (key on) and how fast those pressures drop

    Give us some insight to how long pump runs upon door opening and on each cycle .. how.lkng between each cycle

    The leak rate is high for sure in solenoid .. what is the leak rate off and on ..it does take time for tcu to register it properly ..i think look back is 12 or 24 hours of running engine (not positive in this)

    Do you get any error codes?

    Let us the answers and hopefully we can start to eliminate some of the parts

    Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
     
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  3. imahorse

    imahorse F1 Rookie
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    I unfortunately do not have an SDX but there was a shop that allowed me to use theirs with a technician. I have never received any errors that lit up the dash except for the time the TCU disconnected while driving due to a faulty clip. After clearing the codes I believe were associated with that, no new ones popped up. I did take pictures of the parameters from the SD2. All of these are while the engine was off. During the calibrations, everything was green. It never had a problem except with communicating with the server. I was impressed at how buggy the fabled SD is haha.

    I'd say when fully depressurized, the system would take 10 seconds or so to pressurize. I do know it isn't holding pressure as well as it should, but it never caused an issue before. I believed it was the accumulator, but now think it may be the clutch solenoid. With my luck it's both.

    These pictures are with the original TCU. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  4. imahorse

    imahorse F1 Rookie
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    The clutch solenoid has been replaced and the bleed and relearn procedure was a success. However I noticed on the undertray and bumper that the actuator has been leaking more than I had thought. I think I am going to disassemble it and take a closer look. I know there were talks of a seal kit and I am wondering if any of that came to fruition.
     
  5. chenglo1

    chenglo1 Formula Junior

    Jun 23, 2012
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    So your shifting issue is resolved now?
     
  6. imahorse

    imahorse F1 Rookie
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    The car is still in pieces. I haven't tried it yet. I think I should fix the actuator leaks first so I can rule out the F1 system.
     
  7. imahorse

    imahorse F1 Rookie
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    Finally had some time to work on it. I have the actuator apart except that screw at the bottom of the cylinder which appears to be seized. I removed the set screw holding it in and put kroil in it, which hasn't appeared to help. Then I got angry and started drinking. Will update on progress later. Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
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  8. vrsurgeon

    vrsurgeon F1 World Champ
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    I wouldn’t screw with it and A) convert it to stick, or B) see if there is a cheap actuator or actuator body assembly to throw in. I know I wouldn’t feel comfortable rebuilding an actuator… is there any leak from the clutch seals? Imho it seems the f1 system doesn’t accommodate for leaks in pressure and slip the same way a human foot does.
     
  9. imahorse

    imahorse F1 Rookie
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    The clutch solenoid was previously leaking, which I recently fixed. Odd that there is a parameter in the TCU for the leakage rate, but not a threshold to throw the red light of death.

    I've already heard about 20 people tell me to convert it to stick so that isn't very constructive. Besides gasket material is $10 a sheet on Amazon. If I need any o rings i don't foresee them being much more.

    If this doesn't work I think it's in the transmission from the clutch not disengaging properly for a few years unbeknownst to me because no light. If that's the case, I'll be digging into that as well.

    Am I guaranteed success at all of these things? No, but I wouldn't be satisfied with myself if I didn't try. I already rebuilt the power unit which isn't supposed to be doable.
     
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  10. Skippr1999

    Skippr1999 F1 Rookie
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    Lol.
     
  11. Skippr1999

    Skippr1999 F1 Rookie
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    Send the actuator to GT Engineering for rebuild….then go back to drinking.

    or, convert to stick and make my F1 more rare and valuable.

    seriously, these systems are great when maintained properly.
     
  12. clean512

    clean512 Formula 3
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    That sucks man. I love the stick and F1 but it seems like I love my car more and more with the CS tcu and the tune from AV it just goes in harmony.
     
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  13. imahorse

    imahorse F1 Rookie
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    I'm literally one bolt away from having it apart to replace the gasket and y'all want me to give up?
     
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  14. imahorse

    imahorse F1 Rookie
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    That was the plan, but the car keeps saying no.
     
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  15. clean512

    clean512 Formula 3
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    I would just rebuild that one and start fresh.
     
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  16. tstuli

    tstuli Formula Junior

    Jun 12, 2018
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    It’s unfortunately more than a bolt away. The gaskets are only there to keep dust etc out. If fluid is leaking you have worn seals. These aren’t trivial to change or source unfortunately.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  17. Skippr1999

    Skippr1999 F1 Rookie
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    My mechanic always say, “ there’s only one way this is going to go”….pulling for you !
     
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  18. imahorse

    imahorse F1 Rookie
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    Good thing it's almost winter
     
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  19. tstuli

    tstuli Formula Junior

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    I have a list of the seal parts kit I’ll try and find for you. I did not succeed in finding somewhere to buy all of them so gave up but this was a few years ago.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  20. imahorse

    imahorse F1 Rookie
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    Thank you! That would be greatly appreciated!
     
  21. armedferret

    armedferret Formula 3

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    I damn sure don't...if you give up I'm not having a dram of EC18 tonight in your honor. How bout THEM apples? ;)
     
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  22. armedferret

    armedferret Formula 3

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    .......nobody's gonna throw in "BUT MY BODDDYYYYYYY'S TELLIN ME YEAAAAAAHHHHHHH"?

    Welp. Guess I just did then. :p

    You're gonna own this and I'll be there to standing-ovation-ise you when you do.
     
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  23. Marcoboxer

    Marcoboxer Formula Junior
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    Hell no!! Put all the ‘just convert to stick’ statements on mute and keep going at it. For some reason, those that don’t want to figure this stuff out can never understand those that do! It’s just nuts and bolts at the end of the day….well, that and some very complex software that only Trev360 seems to understand


    Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat
     
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  24. armedferret

    armedferret Formula 3

    Mar 24, 2018
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    Exactly this. They're mechanical objects designed, built, and maintained by the same species as the rest of us....there may be a learning curve, but if other humans can do it then so can anyone else.
     
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  25. imahorse

    imahorse F1 Rookie
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    I think the current plan of attack is to attempt to rebuild the actuator. I don't see the point in not trying. If that fails, I will start piecing together a manual conversion.
     
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