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Another temp question on the 512TR

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by silvergts1998, Jun 12, 2008.

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  1. silvergts1998

    silvergts1998 Formula 3

    Apr 10, 2005
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    ky
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    Adam
    #1 silvergts1998, Jun 12, 2008
    I was driving a friends 512TR and noticed his temperature never really hit 190 degrees and when driving it stayed around 170. Now my 512 TR runs about 190 all the time in hot weather. I made sure I had no air in my system which I don't. So what do you think is the difference? Both of these cars are 1992's. My car has less mileage. Now my AC needs to be charged so I wasn't running the AC on my car so I don't know if running the AC will make the car run cooler. If you run the AC on the car does that make the fans run all the time? I did run the AC on my friend's 512TR when I had it and it still ran very cool. I just thought it was strange on the variance on the temperature gauge. I am running 50/50 water/coolant and also put in royal purple ice additive in my cooling system. I am kind of wondering if I should have more water mix in mine?
     
  2. jratcliff

    jratcliff Formula 3

    Sep 7, 2004
    1,024
    Texas
    #2 jratcliff, Jun 12, 2008
    Adam,
    Isn't it hot there? We're having 95 degree weather here. I noticed on my 91TR it running really cool. My F355 used to climb in traffic to the point that you thought you might need to pull over. Only 1 of the 2 fans would come on when the AC was on. I'm not sure if the TR or 512 is the same way? Although 190 is still pretty good and all things considered I think I would rather run there than too cool.

    John
     
  3. silvergts1998

    silvergts1998 Formula 3

    Apr 10, 2005
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    #3 silvergts1998, Jun 12, 2008
    I would say temps at the time were in the 90's.

    What is interesting is that my buddies 512TR has some difference in design than mine does. His is a 1992 like mine but maybe his was built a little later? As an example, he has these carpet holders on his seat rails where mine doesn't. My car's fan kicks on when it's suppose to and keeps things where you need them at. I know you don't want to run too cool because the engine needs to be at a certain temp to make sure the octane is burned correctly. Maybe I will play with my mixture on the coolant side of things.
     
  4. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

    Dec 31, 2002
    6,712
    Lakeland FL
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    #4 Shamile, Jun 14, 2008
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Adam,

    My temps run 189-190F. The fans come on at 194F and will turn off at 180F or so. The AC does not have anything to do with the fans as they are radiators only. In your TR, the condensor is in the front grill...don't know if it has a fan. In the Testarossa, the AC condensor is in front nose in front of the driver front wheel. It has it's own cooling fan there.

    I use prestone 65% coolant and 35% distilled water.....never any problem.

    ...this is mid 90's central FL. heat.....traffic or no traffic.....no change.


    Shamile

    Freeze...Miami Vice !
     
  5. silvergts1998

    silvergts1998 Formula 3

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    #5 silvergts1998, Jun 14, 2008
    yup the condenser is in the front of the car and with a fan. I wasn't sure if the AC on would cause the radiator fans to kick on early or not to help cooling the engine. Bleeding the system of air doesn't seem to hard. It seems to be straight forward. Fill your system let it sit for a bit. Turn on the car and let it cool. open the bleeder valves and release the air if any. Is that correct on this car?
     
  6. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

    Dec 31, 2002
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    Lakeland FL
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    #6 Shamile, Jun 15, 2008
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Adam,

    I remember when you did your engine pull thread on the TR and you changed the rad out. Did you ever drain out the block? Perhaps air has been trapped in there.

    To change the coolant:

    Open all bleeders valves ( 3 on Testarossa (2) rad (1) thermostats ( center of firewall )

    Open expansion tank

    Drain coolant from both rads ( drain plug next to bottom coolant line on rad )

    Drain both heads (2) drain plugs. One on each side of bell housing ( brass colored nut )

    After draining, I put the rad plugs back but NOT the block plugs. I start filling slowly and wait till coolant starts coming out of the block. I put the block plugs back and keep filling till coolant starts coming out of the bleeders. ( Yes I've overfilled it )

    Close the bleeders. After you finish hearing all the glug glug glug sounds, I start the engine (expansion cap off) and turn the HVAC to full heat. While the car is heating, the expansion tank will fill almost to the brim then I close it off.

    Now I move to the bleeders. Keep bleeding till all the bubbles come out. You will do this for all 3 bleeders and it will take you awhile. ( back and forth) . Even though at first it looked like I overfilled the car but with the removal of the air and bleeding, the level will go down.

    I don't necessarily need to go for a run. I let the car get stone cold, add more coolant to the expansion tank if necessary. I drive and check the coolant level for the next couple of days. (stone cold)

    I go through this proceedure once a year and twice!. I always do a coolant flush/scrubber and distilled water for a few days, redrain and replace with coolant.

    hope this helps :)

    BTW,

    Rad fans would not come on to cool an engine with the AC on. Most condensors are located in front or behind a coolant rad and that fan turns on for the condensor. On your and my Lamborghini Diablo, the condensor is located in front of the driver side rad. That fan can come on by itself for the condensor without the passenger side rad fan coming on.

    Shamile

    Freeze....Miami Vice !
     

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