You would need some ancillary items to go with it, Solids would wipe out the OEM cam, add cam pucks, maybe springs, better seats, performance coat things and it ads up. These motors are pretty "tuned" from Ferrari and to change things amounts to $$$$$$ to do correctly.
I was under the impression they would work with OEM cams and maybe the springs. But solid lifters don't need rebuilding? More reliable and accurate at higher rpms (9000)?
also dont solid liters need adjusted frequently? The whole idea of hydraulic lifters I thought is they are self adjusting..
Yes, they need adjusting. However, it wouldn't need to be more often than major service interval and at that point the engine is out of the car and valve covers usually off, so really minimal extra effort.
Hydraulic lifters today are real good, back in the day when hi performance Hydo cams were making their debut we called them "hairy hydraulics" due to you would never know when they let loos. Today they are rock solid. They even have hydraulic rollers. I just LOVE roller cams but I go to therapy for that. With a solid lifter cam the lobes have more of a ramp built into them. What this does is opens the valve less dramatic so the lifter stays on the cam. Solid lifters use the cam as a launching ramp as you would a ski jump. With stock springs we would be banging valves on the piston or at least binding the springs breaking them. The hydraulic lifter allows a faster ramp and keeps the lifter in constant contact with the cam. This takes lots of pressure off the valve train where they absorb a lot of the impact where a sold is like a hammer beating on it. EDIT, almost forgot, our cams are cut on angles to spin the lifter in it's hole and to ramp up smoother also.
Looks almost exactly the same as the one in the video. Thanks for taking the time to post that picture.
Wow , that guy spent about 8 minutes on one of those x 40 = 320 minutes or 5-6 hours. I just KNOW I would lose a couple of those tiny springs
If you just want to clean the lifters, no problem. But you should check the spring tensions as well. Anyone know what they are?
Cool beans Do it inside of one of those big rubbermaid tubs to catch all the pieces, put a white towel in the bottom to keep the parts from ricocheting around on you.
I highly doubt when we hear "rebuilt" that they are replacing the springs or actually rebuilding them. I mean like Watson said where would you get the springs? Last I checked you can't even source new lifters and if you can find them they are more than $65 each. I think the word rebuilt is misplaced, this is cleaning and it's all I asume Id get if I sent them out to get fixed. Perhaps Braden will chim in with what his get done to them. Besides the small spring for the check valve is thiner than one you would find in a clicky ink pen not sure any tool we could buy would even register its spring rate it's a small spring. Ya Maybe http://www.mcmaster.com ??
The issue is junk in the oil. Oil pressure keeps the lifter pumped up and adjusted. The spring only functions at startup and maybe idle and just above. Springs would be an issue only if broken imo. Junk in oil like silicon sealer is the biggie
It's really all about cleaning them like you said. It's a check valve it lets in but doesn't let out. Saves me a ton of cash so I'm happy.
Dave Helms completely rebuilds these lifters....him and I discussed these lifters for a long time......he sourced much higher grade components...he also established a quality control procedure that insured proper oil flow rates. Who ever made the original lifters for Ferrari had never heard of the phrase.."QUALITY CONTROL". I will not divulge any info that Dave shared with me....he did his homework and put all of this together in his lifter rebuilds and deserves all the credit for this excellent quality rebuild. As far as I know he only offers this service to cars that are in his shop. There was a lot of technical stuff involved in our discussions and what I assumed to be true was actually proven on our Hiller UH-12C helicopter(Franklin engine) which we were restoring at the time.
Just doing a quick mic job on these show the quality. You can see bluing on the failed ones. Maybe we should be searching for an alternative newer style. I understand DH's reasoning. unfortunate for us.
Last I heard Dave wasn't doing it anymore and I never hear back from him when I asked. When I didn't hear back on it I figured it was something he wasn't doing anymore. Ill email them again and ask.
As far as I'm know you are correct, Dave rebuilt mine in 2013 when I had my last major done, I really appreciated his thoroughness and attention to detail. My understanding from him was it was a major PITA and that he really only does it for customers and not for cars that SR does not regularly service.
So now we have headers, cats, valve guides, electronics, tops, suspension actuators, steering rack leaks, shock leaks, radiators, water pumps, belt pulley fences, tensioner bearing, throw out bearings, and tappets that are weak points in 355s. It's amazing that any of them run at all. Have I missed anything?
You forgot the stupid drivers side door latch!!! I still need to repair mine. That said, I know that Dave Helms did more than simply rebuild the hydraulic lifters but ensured that they did not fail in a similar manner by making some unspecified adjustments (I suspect that he enlarged the oil passages) but I can't be 100% sure if that was the fix or only a small part of the fix (such as ensuring that bore diameters were matched appropriately and that the modifications did nothing to accelerate cam wear. Nothing is ever as simple as it appears at first glance (even if you get lucky with your first guess) and unintended consequences are always a potential. Strengthen any weak point and you will potentially expose the next weakest (and potentially more expensive) link. Mark
It looks like I can do about 5 of these in an hour. I did not do the double rinse as in the video, just a soak in carb cleaner for a few minutes. The tappet top has a lip all the way around on the inside and a bent Q-Tip cleans that out...amazing what showed up....goo. There is a vent hole on the side and have been careful to make sure that is open and clog free. The rest of my assemblies were pretty clean. 31,000 miles. The bleed of the piston part is pretty easy, I filled the cavity with some Redline 5w40 and put the small part over the top...a little pressure and a poke of the ball with a dental pick and the purge is done.
