Anyone familiar with this HGTE car - I think I bit off more than I can chew

New battery or bad ground strap? Immobilizer problem?

 

What happened to all the leather parts ?
Many bulbs at the doors, rear, tunnel, ...

Daniel

 

Flood car? That is my bet.

 

I thought the same, but didn't dare to say it.


Daniel

 

I've seen similar leather parts issues with cars here in the Middle East. That and brittle plastics.

I hope it can be brought to life. 599 HGTE are such awesome and rare Ferraris.

 

HGTE seats and a few other bits but that isn't an HGTE exhaust, the tips are wrong. If that is a flood car it is going to be a monumental project. The electronics are very complicated in these cars and water is not friendly to them. To sort this kind of issue you are going to need an SD3, a lot of patience, and a lot of time. The systems are often interconnected in odd ways so you will need a good understanding of this intricacies. Plus, several of the computers are nla so replacements, if/where needed, will be difficult.

You should start by checking every connector in the wiring harness. Take them apart, clean them up, and move to the next one. Then start tracking what systems are getting power and what are not. You can then start running down why each of the non-powered systems isn't getting power.

 

Exhaust is aftermarket, perhaps Novitec.

The leather looks very strange, perhaps the car was placed in high air humidity ?

Sorry, no idea with the electricity.

Daniel

 

Stripped of Ceramic brakes sounds like this car was either driven a lot or tracked a lot or both which cooked the original brakes and then they were replaced by steel brakes. Leather condition probably is due to lot of miles or sitting a lot in the sun (or both again).

Given that the central tunnel is in carbon fibre, I do believe it's a HGTE car. Also HGTE seats are ridiculously expensive, have never seen them in a non factory HGTE retrofit car. A pic of the gauge cluster and central aircon vents can easily put the HGTE vs non-HGTE debate to rest.

 

Agreed that the tach would narrow it down a lot and a VIN should remove all doubt. Standard color of the tach was white BUT there are cars without the white and there are cars without the HGTE stitching on the seats despite being a factory HGTE. The tunnel, door panels, and dash in carbon were all available well before the factory HGTEs so they don't mean that much. My car has those (exactly) and it is a 2008. It was upgraded to full HGTE including everything but the seats so maybe my car isn't a fair comparison. I do agree that the seats are very rare and ridiculously expensive. Like you I haven't seen them in a non HGTE cars. The calipers are yellow despite the car being blacked out; yellow calipers were standard on the HGTE. I assume the exterior is a wrap given the matte finish. He didn't state the year but in the US, you could only get factory HGTE in 2010; there are a couple of 2011 cars out there too but they are vanishingly small in number. The alcantra on the doors is interesting. I haven't seen that before and it matches the seat inserts supporting that the seats are original and the car is an HGTE. All in I believe it is an HGTE.

OP didn't state location so the leather could easily be sun/heat damage, as suggested. Given his statement about no apparent flood damage, it shouldn't be too hard to get a better read on this car.

To the OP: Keeping in mind that I am NOT a pro at this --
to move the seats it takes a lot of current so use a real car battery. A small battery won't begin to move a seat. I believe that some of the wiring info is posted here already but I will look if I have something at the seats specifically. You should be able to connect to them directly BUT it will take a good connection given the current required to move a seat.
The dash is a known weak point and it interfaces/controls a lot of things. Just because it has power doesn't mean that it is working, so double check everything.
The communications are on a CAN bus. Since it is a differential bus that helps if there are any shorts in the wiring; unless both sides are shorted (pulled high or low) it will still work.
The F1 pump pulls HUGE power and will limit the time you can have the driver's door open and/or work on the system. It is very sensitive to voltage swings. That means you either need a great backup battery system or you can only work for fairly short times and need to keep it on a tender to recharge in the pauses between work.

Are there any lights on in the dash? Engine, suspension, ????

 

What OBD2 diag tool are you using?

 

And have you checked the pins for power and ground with a multimeter?

 

Did you check fuse f39 (10A) on the Body Control Module (the fuse block right next to the OBD port). It should be: +30 for NIM, NCL, diagnostic socket OBD, CSA, CAV, radio/NTT, telephone option

 

I think that is the maximum interrupt current. IE: the maximum current that can be stopped by the fuse, at the rated voltage. I haven't paid that much attention to these in a long time but I have similar things for high voltage fuses; above certain levels just breaking the wire doesn't get the job done and current continues to flow.

I don't just visually check them. Fuses can be bad but look fine, reasons are a much longer discussion. Get a tester and see if there is voltage across the fuse. If there is more than tiny levels your fuse is bad no matter what it looks like.

 

I don't even know enough to be dangerous, so take it for what it is...

But, I thought that there is some type of communication between doors, immobilizer, and F1. Wonder if there might be something in a dead-door that impedes immobilizer function, which impedes F1 function, which impedes starting?

 

I’ve also seen that with an over-enthusiastic steam cleaning.

 

Hi...could you please elaborate as to why "F never recorded the vin of HGTW cars"..?? Owners could spec "keep Yellow tachs" as well. Agree that CF seats, tunnel and door bits lean towards Factory.
Thx
Jack Nelson
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