Anyone had a 355 overheating problem?

You know Dave between OZ aka(gothspeed) and yourself I have learned more and received better information than I believe I could if I took a month long F-car training program ( thats assuming of course there was such a thing). I just want to say thanks so much for taking time outta your day consistently to help those of us with less knowledge and skill. I believe you could damand a monthly retainer fee, I know I'd pay it. Sorry gentlemen for giving Dave the idea. Anyway just a thanks from the peanut gallery. Your skill and help is well respected as well as, that of all the members who try their best to help others with F-car issues. Regards Scott

 

We compared 355 and 550 in the alpes climbing hills: guess what? The 550 was the one getting in trouble.
The gauge needle in the 355 told solid figures whereas the 550 water temp was going to the red sector.

1:0 for the 355

cinque

 

Tell your mate with the 550 to PM this guy for a smaller waterpump pulley.

That will cure his o/heating issue.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204871

 

Why are they becoming internally obstructed......??

 

Smaller pulley will probably cause cavitation....best solution is to remove thermostat, then if that does not work go with higher cfm fans....

Personally I like Vern's manual-ON switching of fans which is used in the 355CH....also the 355CH does not use a thermostat and that area is plugged for higher coolant flow rate.

 

Absolutely correct. In fact, both fans will obviously run a separate times and sometimes together only by coincidence. The passenger side fan are know to die. (motor issue probably from lack of use) The sensors do die but not as often.

I live in an extremely hot climate and drive the 355 daily. I have changed out the factory fans for higher CFM SPAL fans (same OEM for the stock product) but nearly 50% more air flow / draw, added an overflow reservoir, wired both fans to one temp sensor and relay and also added a manual operation switch. I've taken the thermostat out in favor of the 355 Challenge plug and seal arrangement and now the car cools with no problems even with the ambient at well over 125 degrees F.

When I get ambitious next I will put an auto fan speed module in the system so that the fans pretty much run nearly all the time albeit at low temps and then they increase in speed as the engine temp rises. Same theory as my Mercedes and extremely effective.

 

Well, thats what I thought. But apparently not according to the guy who made the smaller pulley.

I didnt mention it in the 550 waterpump pulley thread, but removing the thermostat only makes it worse.

Bigger fans will always work though.

 

The hoses themselves become internally destroyed, most likely due to systems occasionally running low on coolant and passing extremely hot air through them. These hoses are in place to bleed air that develops in the system back to the expansion tank.

Steam is a hose killer.... and it kills from the inside out.

This is the same situation that kills 550 hoses.

 

On the Challenge cars we also elimiated the heat exchanger for the transmission, as it was a culprit for causing high coolant temps. especially racing in high elevations. A remote transmission cooler was fitted to the left front corner of the car, using the driving light location for a duct.

Ther Challenge cars also run a higher volume modified engine oil cooling system.

 

I remember learning this at school. I'll check my library for some confirmation.

 

Cool
Recently his 550 had to go, now he's happy owner of a Masarati GranSport. Nice car too.
BTT: HP fans might be useful in traffic at low speed.
On our fast hill climbing trip strong air flow through the coolers was always given. No fan on earth could do better.
So the waterpump approach is worth to think about first. (550)

Removing the thermostat from a 355 leads you in opposite trouble; meaning it takes too much time get the engine to operating temperature.
Also not helpful to keep it solid in operating temp 'window'.
(critical in chilly regions, not for 355CH on the track)

cinque

 

Ditto that! Right after my major service last Feb, my car had a problem with warming up in a reasonable time....and on the freeway it was always stone cold, now granted ambient temps are in the 40's and 50's, but still, they car NEVER did that before. Only time it was in proper operating temp was in city driving. Took it back and they found the "new" thermostat was defective, had a very slight defect that caused it to stick open, and never close much, if at all.

 

Yep yep.

 

The hoses have an inside diameter that is very small. They can get clogged also if a car sits to much or doesn't have the coolant changed on a regular basis crud accumulates inside the small diameter. I Have changed mine a couple of times in 6 years of ownership, they have always been clean but I service the coolant system on a regular basis. Maybe a good rule would be to always change them with the engine out service along with the other coolant hoses.

 

Thanks Vern

Would it help to use a silicone hose?? I'm not sure if this small size diameter is available in silicone.

BTW, are you running a thermostat in your CH?? I know you take your car out in cool weather and into the back roads, just wondering how it runs w/o a thermostat.

 

Sometimes a picture says it all

Dave
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I would not have thought this to be a major problem but those pics prove it as fact...many thanks to you,Adam,and Vern.

BTW, how did you get your hands dirty since Niki is doing all the real work???....lol

 

Well "Holy peanut butter Batman!" I'm convinced! Seems I have a weekend project already and the Wife's doesn't even know it yet.

Kudos Dave! For today and today only....you are "Da Man!". (Title reverts to Daniel in 24 hours.)

 

Shocking hoses

Using the proper antifreeze-fluid based on glycerin you should not get the hoses clogged like this.
At least if the car is driven many times a year.
On the racetrack glycerin is too dangerous because glycerin puddles are very slippery.
I assume they don't fill it in the Challenge cars.

Some recommend cleaner fluid (acid) to free the lines and hoses from 'sedimentation'.
After an hour of driving you bleed the system again, flush it with clear water, bleed it again and refill with antifreeze-fluid.

cinque

 

I tripped and fell down on the way to the frig..... What make you think those are my hands?

 

That hose isn't clogged from cooling system sediment...the inner lining is partially destroyed and coming apart. refer to my earlier post.

This is more common than people think. If it isn't diagnosed properly, you can spend lots of $$ without noticable results.

 

Spot on with that!

 

+1 ......... I replaced mine after those hoses actually started leaking because of severe rubber degradation.

 

I think that was what I was seeing on a friends 355 there were tell tail signs of green along with what looked like sediment in there which made me think of clogging. Probably as the hose starts to go bad the coolant starts to mix with the rubber crap. Anyway long story short change the 2 hoses when you change the coolant.

 

Good idea on the silicon hose you can get it down to 1/4"-6.5mm that should fit. Since I have been changing my hoses when I change coolant, just been using regular rubber hose from NAPA.
On the thermostat deal I pulled the plug and put in the standard 355 unit back in when I bought the car. There was no way it would ever warm up enough without it. The problem I have tho is the oil coolers are so large on the CH that if it is at or below 55 degrees and driving faster than 60 mph for longer than 40 miles I have to a put a piece of cardboard in frt of one air intake. If I don't do that the oil will not get past 130 degrees which IMO isn't good. Sorry guys for getting off topic.