Anyone have anytips on painting model cars?

Look this tutorial, is very useful:

http://www.italianhorses.net/Gallery/Tamiya/TamEnzo/enzo.htm

 

OK Sorry !! Try to find yourself

 

Make sure you have a Dremel , the "trunk" is riveted on. Becareful when taking the engine compartment apart, the 2 black "carbon fiber" pieces on either side are crazy glued on .

 

look this, the car must be completely dislocated! the problem is that Mattel melts down the pieces to attach them. You must cut the end of the pieces.
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Thanks Ferrari 118 , great picture

 

Invest in a small compressor with a water trap, and a good airbrush.

 

I think that you might want to practice with an inexpensive model first. Something that you don't care about ruining. Perhaps a old beaten up Burago or Maisto model. Try looking at some yard sale or flee markets for model in disrepair.

 

You are right, Eric W!

 

As Eric said, definatly start with something easy like a Maisto or Burago. HW models are a PITA to take apart.

 

Um, I'm more used to assembling things like Space ships, ie, Space Pod from 2001, Buck Rodger's Starfighter, and the Battlestar Galactica Viper.

I sporadically write for the Modeler's Resource Magazine as "Kit Girl" tm, so I think I might qualify.

First thing you do is WASH the unpainted, unassembled model, in a Simple Green bath, with like 20%, to cut the oils and junk stuck to the model. I like to use a tooth brush to get into the nooks and crannies.

Next, rinse well in water, and let dry over night. Always test fit everything, before you glue it into place. I like to use a thicker cyano glue, holds better without dripping.

Anyway, with emery paper, sandpaper, dremel for the big stuff, knock the flash down.

I use a combo of that. The best stuff I found for doing this has been, of all things, stuff in the beauty supply houses! Cheap file boards of different grits, even some on blocks!

Now if you have to sand along a straight line, I use spray glue and stick it to a small stick or some piece of wood that will hold it's shape. Aluminum is good, too.

When you are all done assembling (I think with a car, paint before the tires go on? Not sure), make sure it's the way you like. If there's some pitting, or places where the stuff doesn't fit quite right with gaps, I use something like bondo, but for cars, with a FINER grit. Forgot the name, sorry, but Pep Boys has it.

Anyway, you may need to fill stuff before putting it together. A sanding block is great for this stuff!

After it's ready to be painted, I use a nice gray car primer, that is very fine.

Now you just want to LIGHTLY mist the model (if you need the glass in at this point, tape it off! I try to leave all glass off until I'm finishing the model if possible).

After it dries, I ALWAYS wetsand it! I like a nice, smooth finish for the paint to adhere to, without bumps.

My secret weapon is MODEL MASTER'S paints! That enamel is sooo smooth!

You can also use acrylics, but I find there is a subtlety to machines it seems to make too soft.

After I paint the model, if I don't like some of it, ie, paint is orange skinned, I'll lightly sand it, and hit it again.

The trick with an airbrush is LIGHT coats! Never glob on.

When you are pleased with it, apply a clear coat. If you want it aged, apply aging with an airbrush, or whatever makes you happy. Then apply a clear coat.

A lot of times, say an aircraft canopy, I will keep loose, and paint the metal on the glass, by taping off the glass. I like to get into things, lol.

I will be posting my previous articles on my website later this month, where you can look at it for free for instructions.

Any questions, feel free to pm me. Hope this helps.

Favorite construction, btw - 5' Enterprise! Talk about a group effort.

- Julie

 

Julie, I would find something different to clean the model with besides simple green diluted to any amount, which can attack some plastics.

Most dishwashing liquids are much safer on the plastic parts.

"paint is orange skinned, I'll lightly sand it, and hit it again.
The trick with an airbrush is LIGHT coats! Never glob on."

The trick, is learning to thin the paint to the proper degree,
and using the right air pressure for the work at hand.

Good Luck!

Dave
Former Grand Master Champion, IPMS

 

http://italianhorses.net/
You've already been given this link, but I wanted to make sure you check out the 328GTS!

This guy is a master model builder -- be sure to check out the steps he took when painting the 328GTS!! He talks about several wet coats then using polish and buffing then waxing - and the results are amazing!

If you want to learn about building models I suggest you search the discussions at www.yahoo.com to find a list with model building members.

Good luck -

 

I worked on mostly studio scale models, so simple green worked great on the resin kits.

Some people even use Easy Off oven cleaner, if there is leaching.

For simple plastic kits, soapy water is fine. Use whatever is safest.

As for orange peel, I have known humidity and temperature to affect my projects. If the aren't right, I put it off.

After all, picture perfect is what it's about.

 

NOOOOOO, don't use your S2K!!!!
Anything but please no S2K
Unless you do it the first time right!!!
Anyway, good luck with it!

CIAO...

Guy