Anyone order the Stradale rollbar and/or harness options?

Wazza,

Many thanks – you covered all the necessary details – the roll bar looks like a good investment to me – the harness I am not sure – an alternative could be to have a harness bar welded into the roll bar and to go from there

I made it through the brake-in period - three things to do/not to do:

- the air intakes for the rear brake cooling get stone chips in no time – mine look already sprinkled – it is a good investment to simply cover the outer edges as done standard for the Modena from the factory

- don’t touch the engine cover or the challenger grill after a spirited rid – I burned myself at the Challenge-Stradale sign today – at the gas station I usually stand behind the car and warm my hands by holding it close to the grill – now I understand why they put all the additional heat shields around the exhaust including the lower part of the engine cover

- don' t have loose stuff in your car - the carbon brakes are monsters

 

Thomas_b

Thanks for the tips.

"the carbon brakes are monsters"
Good monsters not bad ones I presume ?

What sort of running-in period did you use?

I made a rough schedule for myself as the salesman didn't know ****.
See "My Baby" under the UK section.

Wazza

 

wazza, thanks for the excellent photos

thomas_b, thanks for the tip about the brake ducts, I'll definitely have mine protected.

 

up - very good monsters once they are @ operting temp. - it's a treat!

I stick to the 600miles brake-in period (not over 5K rpm, don’t use race mode, only easy down-shifts) and take it easy up to 1000miles (no long runs in max rpm range, no LC).

I also do an oil change after the brake-in period and let the mechanics do a check for loose/odd stuff. In fact my car will go into FoSeattle next week.

There are lots of opinions about the brake-in period – for better or worse here is what I do:

- warm up the engine to full operating temperature with as little load as I can
I watch the oil pressure very closely.

- vary the rpm and not go any particular rpm for a long time; don’t go over 5K rpm
I do most of my brake-in on backcountry roads and avoid highways. I try to go through all the gears and through the rpm range up to 5K. I try to run the engine in an rpm range that feels most natural (3K +/-) and avoid low ranges < 2.5K (i.e. lugging the engine).

- check all engine fluids and tire pressure before a ride
I want to avoid that I miss a leak or manufacturing problem.

- don’t brake hard for extended times (see below)

Most of the above is pretty self-explanatory – here are two “justifications” for what I do:

Engine brake in
Manufacturing tolerances today don’t require an extended engine brake in. My focus is to get the piston rings and liner properly seated, i.e. create a wear pattern that allows maximum power with the least oil consumption.

Once the engine is hot I try to find a balance between going to easy or going to hard. You want to push the rings (into the cylinder wall) but you want to also avoid excessive engine heat. I also tend to brake more with the engine (slow down) to achieve a similar effect. I vary speed a great deal and constantly (10-20mph; accelerating and slowing down with the engine).

Bedding in of the brakes
You want to get your brakes up to temperature and gradually get them through several heat cycles (hot – cold). The goal is to burn of junk that resides on the brake from the manufacturing process as well as to allow all the different parts of the system to settle in.

I usual go up to around 50mph and brake until I am down by 30-40mph. This is done smooth and slowly and I never come to a full stop. I accelerate back up to speed and perform the same procedure after 1-2min, which allows the brakes to cool down. I repeated that around 10 times on different occasions. Note that you have to allow the brakes to cool down after this and should not stop before this.

I avoid hard braking during the first 200 miles if possible and do not push the brakes to the limits before 500 miles. It is also a good idea to avoid having the brake applied (pads in contact with rotor) if the brakes are hot and you are stopped as well as to use the parking brake in this state for obvious reasons.

Not sure if all this applies to carbon brakes – they are new to me – on the other side I could not see that it hurts – so I executed the procedure as usual.

you can find tons of stuff on FerrariChat of on the Web about this

 

Brian, fyi....I have the factory roll bar in my 360 and it is completely wrapped in leather.

 

mhh - to rollbar or not to rollbar

I actually have the rollbar on order - question is if it is worth the 20kg increase

looking at the picture I am actually surprised about how well the B pillar holds up

anybody understand such accidents - what was the impact on the folks in the car (besides that I hope that they are well)?

 

Here's your problem:

When you put 5 and sometimes 4-point belts on a car WITHOUT a rollbar, and you roll the car, your neck could break from not being able to submarine down along with the roof. That's why it's so dangerous to go with the additional harness without doing the rollbar.

It's also why many tracks are limiting the usage of 4 and 5 point restraint systems without an installed roll cage.

 

my 360's roll bar is completely wrapped in leather. it is a very neat fit behind the seat and does not take up any room.

 

The important thing to realize about the 5K RPM limit is that it is connected to the throttle. It is completely OK to rev the engine up to 8K during breaking as long as you do this without using more than 25%-35% throttle (e.g. low loads). It is NOT OK to use 100% throttle and 5K+ RPMs.

In fact, a few good bursts of REVs will seat the rings faster (as if the dyno at Ferrari didn't already seat the rings). During those bursts, you should accelerate at moderate throttle up through the RPM band and then remove throttle and let the car decellerate; over, and over, and over again. The windup seats the rings on the cylinder wally, the deceleration pulls oil up past the scraper ring to lubricate the second and first rings. As far as the deceleration goes, the higher the RPMs you start the better.

Durring the entire breaking process you should keep one eye on the instruments, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, and be listening for any new strange noise.

 

Has anyone in the US found a European source for the Stradale roll bar? Brian? Any idea of how much it costs?

thx,

--Dennis

 

I am working at it - we have compiled the list of part numbers - PM me

- thomas

 

Wazza has taken the time to detail out the issue of the roll bar abd 4-point harness. Great work there Wazza.

I have also ordered mine with the roll bar and 4-point harness. I remember correctly the factory does not recommend the roll bar and 4-point harness to be fitted as a dealer option because of the extesive work that need to be done. But that's here in KL but you guys in the US may be able to get it done. I think it's worth the investment. Good luck

 

Prompted by an eBay ad that showed what appears to be a factory-option 4-pt harness, I went searching for threads of Stradales with 4- to 6-pt harnesses installed. I was fairly disappointed to see the pictures missing from this thread.

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Does anyone have pics of their Stradales with either the factory 4-pts, and how they are mounted to the car?

Does anyone have pics of their own custom-install roll bar, and stays, that attach to the car?

It is eBay item number 220332142220

For the record, the car being advertised is S/N 137899 (yellow/red w/stripe).

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From my very research of the market, I think a very good CS roll bar to install is the one manufactured in Florida by Mike Ferran. It is extremely high quality, looks fantastic, and includes all the brackets to do the job correctly. Buying an OEM Ferrari bar is not an option. They are not being released by either the factory in Italy, or FNA.

Mike has an advertisement in the FCA Prancing Horse this month. It is a single bar, not a roll cage. .200 TIG Welded 6063-T6 aluminum, 904-390-0993 email RANDYMF1 at aol.com

 

I just had a harness bar made for my Scud and had it at Sebring this past weekend. worked great. Gary Hoffman from Hardbarusa.com designed it. He's an aerospace engineer and has been making these bars for other cars. sent me stress tests etc. I believe the dimensions are the same for a stradale. It also allows you to use the 3 point belt when you're not tracking the car which is a definite plus.

 

I could not get the local Ferrari dealer in Miami to install belts in my CS - the said liability issues - does anyone know where I can get the belts for a CS and a shop to install(attach)them properly. I was thinking about a roll bar also - does anyone know how much protection the roof section gives you on a stock CS? I knoiw I feel better tracking the CS (safety wise) then I do my 430 Spider

 

I ask Martin @ Cavallino Motors. He's pretty darn plugged into that community and has a crew of folks qualified to assist.

 

Thanks Daniel - I will check with him - What is Jack Russell Racing? - Love racing as long as it has wheels on it - Have a Sprint(non Winged) team this year - am really looking forward to it. We also are in North Carolina just west of Ashville on Cold Mountain - there and the Florida Keys