Anything I should know before re-installing my T/O bearing on a 91 348 | FerrariChat
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Anything I should know before re-installing my T/O bearing on a 91 348

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by PassionIsFerrari, Dec 10, 2004.

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  1. PassionIsFerrari

    PassionIsFerrari Formula 3

    Aug 15, 2004
    2,454
    #1 PassionIsFerrari, Dec 10, 2004
    I replaced the seal that was leaking on the slave cylinder / throwout bearing piece. It is ready to go back into the car. 1991 348TS

    1.) Anything I should know about putting it back in. Is just a matter of screwing the bolts that hold the guide piece in and putting the springs back in place?

    2.) I know I have to bleed the clutch line but I am sure that happens after the T/O bearing is back in place. Correct?

    3.)I still have pressure in my brake lines but some have suggested that I bleed all the brake lines too...Yes or no...

    Thanks...I get my whole clutch/flywheel assembly back next week. One of the discs was too badly burnt that they could not add material to it, so I had to get one new disc..but they repacked and resurfaced the flywheel, and replaced one disc and added material to the other onel.......Total cost was $850. Seals for T/O bearing totaled around 60 bucks..($36 for the triple seals, $8 for the output shaft seal and $17 for the slave cylinder seal)
     
  2. PassionIsFerrari

    PassionIsFerrari Formula 3

    Aug 15, 2004
    2,454
    #2 PassionIsFerrari, Dec 11, 2004
    anyone..................anyone..............
     
  3. rexrcr

    rexrcr Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 27, 2002
    1,578
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Full Name:
    Rob Schermerhorn
    #3 rexrcr, Dec 14, 2004
    As long as you've replaced all the seals, you're correct.
    Yes. Hopefully you also propped the clutch pedal down just enough to cover the hole inside the clutch master so the master didn't drain out the reservoir to the feed hose from the reservoir to the master and the master is dry. If it’s dry, you may have great difficulty bleeding. I suggest topping off the reservoir and attempting a normal bleed. If that’s not successful, pressure bleeding will work. I use an adapter sold by Mac Tools which screws on the master reservoir perfectly and a nitrogen cylinder with the regulator set very low. Works every time. There are other methods.
    Not necessary. Many say you must due to shared reservoir. Not true because the clutch picks up it’s fluid via a hose that’s located in the side of the reservoir and running the clutch master dry doesn’t leave the brake master dry.

    But do bleed the brakes if the service is due.
     

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