Are the 512 TR brakes considered good?

for the road they are ok

for the track, NO !!!!!!

if you dont want to go all out, call porterfield and buy some pads & rotors. Their prices are Much lower than F and the quality is much better. Put road pads in front, race pads in back. They give off more brake dust but they will stop the car much better

if you do want to go all out then Brembo has an F50 kit which they used my 512TR as a prototype for. these will really stop your car all day long on the track, Just be careful 1st time bcus they are MASSIVELY powerful

 

For road: ok
For track: maybe 1 lap if you are lucky...

 

for road...i highly recommend upgrading to a set of brembo's...at a BAM do the fronts....your TR has good enuf rear brakes for the road as is....

Doc.
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I recently did a touring day at Road America with the alfa group. 40 minutes run time, speeds up to 100mph, maybe. These were not timed trials and the car was perhaps going at 60-70%. But the brakes were being used quite a bit, due to the long straights and my paranoia of spinning out (did it twice last year, sigh).

Had zero problems with the brakes. Not sure what pads are on there, but they throw off prodigious amounts of dust. After a 10 minute drive my wheels and back bumper have a fine mist coating...

Either way, the brakes were not an issue at moderate track speeds...

There was another gent with a tr also...2/3 of the way through, he said his brakes were toast. We were basically driving in tandem, at about the same rate...

Go figure.

Just 2 data points...

 

He may have started w older pads or old brake fluid or he may be using stock pads, bad idea

 

My experience: VIR, full coarse, Porterfield R4's, Motul 600, stock rotors and calipers, and Corsa tires. Back straight speeds of about 125-130, front straight 120. I have already admitted on this forum that I drive my car lighter on the track than some do on the street. But I never had a hint of fade. Rotor wear was minimal, I am about 1/2 way through the pads (2 days total).

Look at it another way: these are 12 inch+ rotors with true cooling ducts to all 4 wheels in a car that weighs 3700 pounds and gets more use out of it's rear brakes than most cars. By comparison, my old Audi S4 had 60% of it's weight on the front axle static (I'd say 90% of the braking was done with the front wheels) 13.5 inch rotors of the same quality, no ducting, and weighed 4000 pounds. With the same pad and fluid compound, I could drive the piss out of that car with no fade. The 512 has much better brakes.

Of course, the Hubster would probably not be too pleased to be on track with me

If you want to drive her hard and enjoy the car, I think you will be fine with uprated fluid and pads. If you want to put on your Schumi-suit and push it past the last brake marker, you should prepare to spend some big money.

 

No good

 

IMO you can drastically improve your braking efficiency with a great fluid and proper cooling of stock brakes. Look to books such as Tune to Win to figure out good cooling techniques. Smith uses monster ducts and a plate which basically rubs the rotor to shear off the boundary layer of heat on it.
My experience with a street car on track is limited to the NSX which can work amazingly with stock brakes if fed cool air. Especially if you can shed some weight off the car... or me?
Remember; big brakes = big weight.
Drilled is for show or rain.

 

drilled was the tech back in the 60s when the glue that held brake pads together was not good

Today you want slotted brakes to help release some heat but still maximiza surface area