AutoX Wheel / Tire Recommendation for 308?

Steven R. tracks the hell out of his 308. Not sure if he also does 'crossing. I'm sure he'll chime in as soon as he sees the post.

 

I found, even when I had a stock engine that I needed more tire in back than in front. So I would recomend the 16s. You may want to spend some time looking at available tires sizes, that may help you decide.

I'm running 18x8.5 with 225/40 tires in the front and 18x10.5 with 285/35 tires in the rear.

The other thing that makes a big difference is the springs. Autocross loves heasvy springs, I run Emod or SM2 (because my engine is modified) so it's allowed in my classes. I use 450lb/in F and 400 rear.

 

Hey Mark, any pics?

 

Your wheel sets basically represent "OEM Early" version, and then the later 308/328 went to the "OEM later" set you have, with wider rears......

No idea on the autocross scene........

 

Sure
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are those 360s?

 

If you're serious about auto X, you may cosider buying another car before sinking too much in the Ferrari. 308's are too heavy for the parking lot circuits to be competative with what shows up. You're thinking ASP I take it?

Ken

 

Not sure how much you drive your car during the year, and if you have street tires currently on the 14" wheels, but I would use those for "street" if needed.

For the 16" wheels you could get the "new" DOT legal compt tire from Yokohama, their ADVAN A048 in the 205-55-16 & 225-50-16 sizes.

You can get them in "medium" or "medium hard" compounds. Medium will get you bit better time in the autoX, but wear out a bit faster.

I had their A032R tires on a few of my cars that I drove on daily, and would get @8,000 miles out of a set before needing replacement. If you drove your car @3,000 miles a year, I could see you not having to swap wheels, and simply buying a new set of tires every couple years.

More info about these tires is at www.tirerack.com

 

They're 550

 

I've won events in both Emod and SM2 with my 308, it does quite well.

 

I take it you're not running a very stock setup; what kind of HP are you getting? I was talking about ASP, the "beginner" circuit. It caters to lower power but light cars. 308's are dogs because the straights are too short and they don't turn or accelerate as well as a WRX, Miata, and yes, a Europa. I don't race but lots of my brethern do.

Ken

 

Mike's supercharger bumps 700 ponies.........

 

Well, maybe not THAT many.........LOL!

 

It's 420 at the wheels, so 500+ crank.

You're right, there are other car that are probably better suited, but honestly the point is to go have fun, at least to me it is. I have a ball beating the snot out of the ferrari....but them I used to insist on roadracing a harely too.

 

Chris, i track the living ^%$^* out of the car here. AutoX and track are DIFFERENT beasts. Frankly, AutoX is probably best in a lightweight package. Have never done it, but have watched a few and the movement is VERY unnatural and yes, you WILL need to up the springs/shocks for AutoX if you insist on AutoX.

As for track, am still learning and have made the occasional mistakes as time has gone by. We had 300 lbs front and 250 lbs rears with Fchat sponsor Nick Forza dual-adjustable shocks and stock sway bars.

Blew out a shock and after some consideration and experience i realized we need stronger springs and NOT turn up the shock setting so high. We are installing 400 front and 350 rear springs (FYI: stock is 178 front and 187 rear for a late model GTS). We are also going with adjustable http://www.sanerperffab.com/ sway bars and remember to get his split collars.

So the deal is even if you AutoX, you have adjustable shocks and adjustable sways. Naturally you want to lower the car to lower the CG and DUMP as much weight out of the car as you can (lighter seats, remove AC, etc). Also, redo all your suspension bushings with Energy Suspension 'G' polys.

Other tweaks include going with Fchat sponsor Girodisc brakes to lower sprung weight and lower the chance of brake fade due to heat. Have seen a stock 308 at the track and the stock brakes COOKED within a few laps, the calipers locked up and resulted in major flat spotting of the tire as the brake discs AND calipers were at about 550F and you could SEE the bearing grease BOILING out of the hub! Fortunately no damage to the car other than a flat spotted tire... but the consequences of brake fade could be deadly (literally). Naturally you will want to use Motul 600 brake fluid and REMOVE the metal brake disc covers on the inside of the front rotors, as removing them aids in brake cooling. Remember to install Goodridge steel braided brake lines.

There are others here with LOTS more info and track time then me, though the above are some basics.

To answer your original question, i use Kinesis K27 rims size 17x8 and 17x9 and use Mich Pilot Sport PS2 as the car here is also a daily driver rain or shine. Would LOVE to buy another set of rims and use dedicated R-compound tires and am debating doing just that as a holiday gift to me

Problem with that is... it also means i need to buy a lightweight aluminum car trailer to haul the car and bits to the track (or just strap the R-compound tires and rims to the roof between the rear off and in front of the top rear black aero).

If i was a rich man....

Are you REALLY SURE you want to AutoX and track the car? This way leads to the Dark Side of the Schwartz. Open wallet.... BIG...

Oh, and when you discover the brake pedal goes too deep you will want to change the MC or brake setup to increase pressure and reduce pedal movement.

Did i mention the 4/5-way harness you will want and lightweight race seats?

Brake pads...

OK, i'll stop. Please use the SEARCH function and see what others have done. There is more than one way to skin the proverbial cat, but virtually none of them is Ricer Drop In Parts easy and cheap.

You could sell the 308 and get a used Lotus or Mini S and hop them up.

Ever consider go-kart racing? Cheap thrills and fast n fun! Formula Atlantic is fun...

Ok, i'll stop. Really, i swear i am. Stop. Stop it Steven...

Ok, one last thought.

www.ispexperts.com/nhis090105a.wmv


www.ispexperts.com/nhis308large.wmv

That's me.

Hi, my name is Steve and i am NOT a recovering track junkie...

 

Steve,
Part of the beauty of autoX is it happens about about 60 mph and is over in 60 seconds. At that speed/time, the brakes and bearing or anything els don't overheat, no extra seat belts or roll bar or anything else are required for safety and a set of race tires lasts 2 or 3 seasons. Make a huge mistake and you knock down a few cones, which I can tell you from experience buff out much better than the scuff that come from gravel traps and guardrails.

It's really hard to hurt the car, yourself, or oyur wallet at an autox...which is why that is the only game I play these days.

 

(Said in good humor) Wow, that sounds familiar. Hit me a little too close to home huh? ;-)

True, the brakes are no biggie, but i recall he did mention track time. Yup, he said "I am planning on doing both parking lot events and track events on a reasonably frequent basis, but just for the fun of it."

Ok, so he needs not go all out as myself and a few others here. i guess basics would be to lose AS MUCH weight as possible, get steel braided brake lines, use Motul 600, and remove the front brake rotor guards in hopes of keeping them cool at a track.

Oh... don't remind me. When my mechanic looked at the car a bit ago for the winter storage/upgrades he asked WTF have i been doing. When Fchatter Verell visualizes the condition of my old Euro front aero (i am giving it to him as we are replacing it) he is gonna flip at the crap that poor piece has been through. Umm.. you forgot to mention tire walls

Ahhh i c. Cool. Dunno though, i find AutoX ok and all, and yes it takes skill... but a road course race track (for me) is like a what i see on TV when someone gets a shot of crack Peruvian Marching Powder.