Axle seals?

Fairly straightforward:
Drain transmission lube (It probably needs changing anyway).

Remove rear bank exhaust from header on back, this will give you access to the differential area.

Rough procedure for exhaust removal is:
Go ahead & pull every thing from the header outlet flanges on back. s/b all 13mm bolts, but often someone's used some fraction bolts on the exhaust flanges.

I just pulled my '82 QV's rear header to get at the differential housing.

Once the rest of the exhaust system is out of the way, you can use a couple of long extensions to go in from behind & easily get most of the header's manifold flange nuts off. The other nuts are accessable either from on top, or thru the passenger side wheel well.

Once disconnected, It's easiest to pull the rear header up between the engine & the luggage compartment. On your carb'd you'll probalby have to loosten & move the coolant recovery tank out of the way.

A Euro header will come out under the bumper, but the little pulleys for the brake cable will have to be unbolted to get them & the cable out of the way. It's a tight fit, lots of twisting to get it thru. Will scrape the rust off of it a bit in the process.

Not sure that a US spec header with the heat shields covering it can come out thru there..

Once you have the exhaust system out of the way, disconnect the half-shafts from the differential flanges.
The nuts will hold themselves in place, just use a 1/2" drive allen 'socket' with a breaker bar to break the bolts loose, then spin them off with a butterfly air wrench if you've got one, otherwise just ratchet them off.

Also either disconnect the outer ends of the half-shafts from the wheel hub flanges, or else disconnect the wheel hubs from the A-frames. (If you disconnect the hubs, be very careful to note how the bushings/washers, etc. on the hub mounting bolts come apart. They must go back exactly the same way).

Remove the bolts from the center of the differential flanges (Easiest to do with an air impact wrench.)

Now the flanges can be pulled out & the seals replaced. Scuff the area of the flange wiped by the seal with green scotch brite or 440 grit sandpaper to ensure that the area will hold the film of oil necessary for the seal to work.

Reassemble & torque everything in reverse order.
Refill transmission w/lube.

S/B about a 8 -12 hour job, maybe 18 to 24 hours if you aren't already familiar with that area of a 308 or don't have air tools & a lift (not required, but sure makes the job easier.)

Sourcing seals:
Just pulled my diff seals & they didn't have the std seal dimensional markings, so I can't give you the numbers to take to a local bearing/seal supplier. TRutlands, McCanns, Sodacoms, & Ferrari.uk of course can supply the seals.

 

I did mine last winter. Verell's give you good advice.
FYI, I found I could remove the header out the bottom with the brake cable mech disconnected. You can leave it attached. There's just a bit more room without it in the way. You will need new CV joint grease and (I am told) new and old grease should not be mixed.

The old seals can be removed with a pick. I found the cap to a bottle of "Surf" or equivalent clothes washing liquid was perfect to press in the new seal.

I "lubed" the outer edge of the new seal with a thin bead of silicon. Don't get it on the inner facing/bearings.

Make sure you get the seals oriented correctly. Check the SPC for direction.
As I recall, the seals were not that badly priced from the usual sources or your dealer.
Philip

 

If you are going to do both sides and already have the inner cv disconnected, why not pull the axles and reboot/lube the axles.I got a cv kit with boots, clamps and 4 tubes of grease from Dennis McCann's all ferrari parts for $55.00. just incase you have too much time o your hands.

hth,
the as long as you're in there guy
chris

 

I am curious as to why you are removing the exhaust manifold to replace the seals? It seems to be an awfull lot of trouble. We have been replacing them for years by just removing the axle, output flange, and then the seal. Reverse the order for reassembly, don't even drain the gear oil.

 

Rifleman,
OOPS!!
Thanks for pointing out my error. My thinking was biased by doing the seals because I had the header off so I could take the differential apart to deal with a broken crown gear bolt.

Doing it with the header in place would be snug, but not severely so. Still should get it done faster than following my pull exhaust & header recommendation. Wish I could go back & edit my post.

 

No sweat, I am always ready to be taught something new but that one had me wondering.