360 - Axle Shaft for Differential - HOLLOW or SOLID? Which one do you have? | FerrariChat

360 Axle Shaft for Differential - HOLLOW or SOLID? Which one do you have?

Discussion in '360/430' started by DiSomma6, Dec 16, 2024.

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  1. DiSomma6

    DiSomma6 Karting

    Nov 27, 2023
    225
    Full Name:
    Erik
    Just coming back from my usual 200 mile weekly trip in my 360 Spider, I felt a thump as I backed up into my garage. I put it into first (to test if it was my imagination) and it thumped again. I've always had a shudder on slow corners and various noises I've previously diagnosed as clutch or diff related, but after 12K miles this year, this one felt different. The next morning I decided to test drive the car to duplicate the issue and found myself stranded with no gears.

    After placing the car on stands, I noticed the passenger side wheel was completely free spinning, indicating maybe a broken diff or inner shaft. A quick tear down of the CV and inner flange quickly revealed that the inner axle shaft connecting the diff to the flange (CV) was completely SHEARED! Snapped in two, right at the diff carrier!

    In my typical "get my car back on the road by the weekend" style, I made some calls and found two part numbers (185013 and 199055), both requiring a special order and a 3 week wait. Luckily FerrParts said they have a low mileage one they will overnight to me. When it arrived, I noticed an interesting difference between the otherwise identical parts - the one installed in my car was a hollow shaft and the one sent to me was a solid shaft!

    Turns out that two parts were manufactured for use in the 360 - one 185013 which was hollow and 199055 which was solid and used in 360, Maserati and the Ferrari Enzo. In fact, although no TSB or even an official supersedence was found, the area that sheared on mine was a weak point where the hollow steel tapers into the diff, whereas on the new one, it has solid steel at least another two inches out, giving it more structural integrity at such a critical point.

    Getting the broken piece out proved to be a challenge, as it was likely cracked and deteriorating for quite some time. The piece was rotating slightly and digging it's own channel into the carrier just outside of the splines and as a result was acting like a ring clip, preventing me from pulling it out. After a week and a half of drilling, tugging, and sitting in the drivers seat making engine noises with my mouth, I finally followed the initial advice of Dominick (Flash), and pulled out the diff. After that it was smooth sailing (compliments of a small sledge hammer) since removing the diff allowed me to knock it out from the other side. This also allowed me to examine and clean the internals and reassemble with the new and IMPROVED shaft!

    So now the car is back on the road and feels better than ever with more confidence on turns and launches.

    Two things I learned through this debacle that I felt necessary to share with the FC community:

    1. This is an obvious and widely unknown weak area for the 360. I'm not sure when the transition of part numbers occurred (my car is a 2001 Euro spec), but the change happened for a reason. If anyone has unusual bouncing, thumping etc., even on left hand turns, I'd check it out. Had it not snapped, it would have been a 1 hour swap - easy peasy. I'll post pics shortly showing the differences as they typically don't have part numbers on them.

    2. If Dominick makes a suggestion, just take it. I was stuck on the idea of removing the broken axle without the removal of diff and while supportive, he continued to give me confidence that I could do it the right way and be a step in the right direction in repairing the car. He was right. Thanks again to Dominick for the continued help. He saved me an easy $30K over going to the dealer!
     
    Jaymac and flash32 like this.
  2. DiSomma6

    DiSomma6 Karting

    Nov 27, 2023
    225
    Full Name:
    Erik
  3. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    6,948
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    Erik

    Glad you are enjoying her again ...

    I hope I wasn't giving you too much "tough love" lol
     
    Jaymac likes this.
  4. DiSomma6

    DiSomma6 Karting

    Nov 27, 2023
    225
    Full Name:
    Erik
    #4 DiSomma6, Dec 16, 2024
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2024
    Haha never too much of that! Thanks again!!
     
    flash32 likes this.
  5. anotherred360

    anotherred360 Formula Junior

    Jan 10, 2015
    278
    USA
    Interesting. How much different do you think they weigh? Where is the part number on the shaft? Going to check my '04 US spec and see what I have.
     
  6. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 18, 2020
    981
    New Hampshire
    Full Name:
    Jeremy McCurdy
    Very interesting. Makes me wonder if it’s worth replacing proactively. I have the WSM, but are the cliff notes of the R&R of this piece if it’s not broken? I remember seeing many pictures of many different seals etc that needed to be pressed off and on in the WSM…
    Glad you got it fixed. Dominick is the MAN!
     
    flash32 likes this.
  7. DiSomma6

    DiSomma6 Karting

    Nov 27, 2023
    225
    Full Name:
    Erik
    Not sure where the part number is - I did not see one engraved and they had no factory stickers. If you remove the right CV, you'll see the depth of hole in the center without removing the shaft itself.

    The really odd part is simply ordering this part is confusing because both part numbers correspond to the same location and transmission build numbers. The hollow one is around $500-$600; the solid one being double that, around $1,200.
     
  8. DiSomma6

    DiSomma6 Karting

    Nov 27, 2023
    225
    Full Name:
    Erik
    The bearing will need to be pressed off. The "U-channel" seal will need replaced along with the o-ring. Both inexpensive parts.

    Removal:
    1. Remove CV/axle from the flange and push aside;
    2. Remove the CV heat shield. The forward bolt is accessible from below while the other two are easily reachable via the engine bay.
    3. Remove the Flange bolts holding the inner axle to the gearbox. These surround the Flange on a floating ring. I believe there are 4 or 6 10mm bolts.
    4. Connect a universal slide hammer to the Flange and hammer out. This may require you to unbolt the upper control arms of the passenger rear wheel. Just 4 small nuts and no re-alignment is necessary as the bushings remain intact and in place.

    Installation:
    1. Slide in the new shaft, slowly rotating until the splines line up. This will slide right in easily except for about 1-2 inches. Then use weighted rubber mallet to hammer in the new shaft until there's about 1/8" space between the Flange floating ring and the gearbox. Then, align the floating ring holes with the holes in the gearbox and use the flange bolts to bring it in the rest of the way by tightening each in a cross pattern.
    2. Reverse all steps in the removal process tightening to spec.
     
  9. DiSomma6

    DiSomma6 Karting

    Nov 27, 2023
    225
    Full Name:
    Erik
    I don't believe there is much difference in weight, and any additional weight will be at the point of rotation so there really won't be a change in rotating mass.

    You're car is likely already updated being such a new model and a US model. If you're ever down there, just remove the CV and stick your finger in the hole in the middle of the flange. If you can touch steel with the tip of your finger, you're good! If there's an endless abyss of space, then you have the old shaft.

    Again, you have a newer car in production at the same time as other cars using the updated part, such as the Maserati and Enzo. So, you're likely in the clear.
     
    anotherred360 likes this.
  10. KC360 FL

    KC360 FL Formula 3

    Jun 20, 2017
    1,948
    Melbourne Florida
    Full Name:
    KGC
    That price difference should tell you/us all something. Shocked to see a hollow (drive) shaft. Unless it was titanium (which of course it is not-- especially at the cheaper price) Wow, just wow...
     
    Jaymac likes this.
  11. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 18, 2020
    981
    New Hampshire
    Full Name:
    Jeremy McCurdy
    With mine being an ‘03 US model also, I wonder which one I have. Easy enough to check, I suppose.
     
  12. KC360 FL

    KC360 FL Formula 3

    Jun 20, 2017
    1,948
    Melbourne Florida
    Full Name:
    KGC
    I also have an '03 US model. I highly doubt any of these later models have a hollow shaft. Especially considering that the end of the run for the 360 was essentially '05-- and only a handful in that year.
    Plus it's important to remember that these cars are now over 20 years old. A lot of things can be changed, modified, or repaired in 20+ years. With a price tag of less than half the cost of the solid axle shaft, it may have been a repair made based on costs when replacing an axle-- and one repair that may not have been "documented". ;)
     
  13. INTMD8

    INTMD8 F1 Veteran
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jun 10, 2007
    6,770
    Lake Villa IL
    Steel is stronger than titanium so more likely hollow if steel.
     
  14. KC360 FL

    KC360 FL Formula 3

    Jun 20, 2017
    1,948
    Melbourne Florida
    Full Name:
    KGC
    Titanium’s ultimate tensile strength is about 63,000 psi while for steel it is close to 50,000 psi. Therefore, compared with the latter, titanium can take more strain before cracking.
    But with that said, I still would think the hollow titanium shaft would be inferior to a solid steel shaft.
     
  15. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 19, 2008
    39,186
    Clarksville, Tennessee
    Full Name:
    Terry H Phillips
    You cannot describe the differences in titanium and steel and all their iterations using two numbers.
     
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  16. KC360 FL

    KC360 FL Formula 3

    Jun 20, 2017
    1,948
    Melbourne Florida
    Full Name:
    KGC
    You can when you know the application.
     
  17. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 19, 2008
    39,186
    Clarksville, Tennessee
    Full Name:
    Terry H Phillips
    There are many options for each application, depending on multiple factors, including cost. A simple application like knife steel could vary from D2 or D3 tool steel up to 154 cm or 154 cpm. So, no, you cannot.
     
  18. 066/8

    066/8 Formula Junior

    Sep 29, 2023
    253
    • I'd assume that the main load on the shafts are dynamic torsional loads of varying magnitude and direction. Thus fatigue strength seems to be the more relevant property than UTS.
    • Generally: Hollow shafts and titanium are superior in terms of strength-to-weight-ratio.
    • For both titanium and particularly steel there are thousands and thousands of alloys, manufacturing techniques and heat treatments which all influence the mechanical properties. E.g. there are steel alloys that have a tensile strength of 350 000 psi ... the most common titanium alloy has considerably less at roughly 140 000 psi UTS.
    • Picking the correct material for an application is a science/engineering discipline of its own; for all commercial products cost typically plays a major role
    • OEM parts are typically well engineered but are optimized for mass production. Parts by aftermarket suppliers and extremely small car manufacturers are generally less well engineered, but can be more liberal in terms of cost & time to produce.
    • Almost everything in engineering is a trade-off.
    Sorry for the long post, perhaps some of the ideas were at least somewhat interesting.
     
  19. INTMD8

    INTMD8 F1 Veteran
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jun 10, 2007
    6,770
    Lake Villa IL
    Instead of searching steel vs titanium strength try torsional strength steel vs titanium as we are twisting this part not pulling it apart.

    Other than that, titanium isn't as good at resisting deformation. There have been some attempt at solid titanium CV shafts that are ultimately strong enough but fail at the splines so a gun drilled steel shaft is the best option for strength/weight.

    I'm a big fan of weight reduction and have quite a few titanium parts on my car but yes this wouldn't be a great application for it.
     

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